Carbon Canister Removal/Relocation VR6

[Joe M 0]

I know theres a big thread on this for the g60, but hows it done on the vr6. I take it if I relocate it its just a case of finding somewhere to mount it and extend the pipes, but what about removal, what does each pipe do?

[VR6 0]

One pipe is the petrol tank breather and the other is a crank case breather (I think!).

 

Relocating might be a bit tricky due to the limited space available. Maybe drop it down and attach it inside the front bumper?

 

Remove it altogether and plumb the pipes back into the induction?

 

Or you could just vent them to atmosphere - not too enivironmentally friendly though!

[Rams 0]

The canister you are refering to is that the canister that goes into the inner wing on the drivers side?

 

If so, doesnt that have to be straight as it has something to do with fule and to help the car start if your on a hill or something?

 

Iam not really sure so would be interested to know.

 

That would mean I go direct my air feed in a more direct way?

[Joe M 0]

Thats the canister, all I think it does is take the fumes out of the air that comes from the breather pipes then put it back into the system some how. Im wanting to move it for an air feed as well.

[G-THING 0]

were just blocking the pipes on our conversion

[VR6 0]

Thats the canister, all I think it does is take the fumes out of the air that comes from the breather pipes then put it back into the system some how. Im wanting to move it for an air feed as well.

 

It puts the 'nasty' vapours into the carbon cannister. Not sure on the technical bits, but my guess is that it takes the carbon and other harmful vapours out.

 

were just blocking the pipes on our conversion

 

Shouldn't really block the petrol tank breather.

[W3RKD 0]

vr6 is right the fuel tank breather SHOULD NOT be blocked ...

[CrazyMan 0]

I have done this on my VR6, pretty simple.

I located it in the driver side wheel arch.

[Robch 0]

I just removed mine totally. But as said before, don't block the petrol tank breather.

[NOBY 0]

CrazyMan: Can u show me how u attached it behind the wheel... ? :mad:

 

//NOBY

[scruffydubbers 0]

i think its just for immisions,

 

i ve just done a conversion vr6 conversion on a 16v, i just removed all the parts and blanked the holes, and put a small breather filter on the crank case breather works fine.

 

i did nt have to worry about the fuel tank breather on my car, but i agree that it should nt be blocked off

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Here you go, explained by VW themselves from their VR6 (2.8 AAA engine though, but also applies to 2.9 ABV) tech manual:-

 

*** Fuel Tank Ventilation ***

 

The following inputs are used to control the fuel tank ventilation:

.Engine speed

.Engine load

.Engine coolant temperature

.Signal from throttle valve Potentiometer (G69)

 

Fuel vapors from the fuel tank are vented to the carbon canister. When the engine is warm and above idle speed, the vapors will be drawn into the intake manifold via the carbon canister. Depending on engine load and oxygen sensor signal, a frequency valve will regulate the quantity of vapors entering the intake manifold from the carbon canister

 

* Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) *

 

The ECU determines the duty cycle of the frequency valve to regulate the flow of fuel vapors from the carbon canister to the engine. When no current is supplied to the valve, it remains in the open position. The valve is closed (duty cycle 100%) when the cold engine is started.

 

* Triggering: *

 

The Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) begins to operate after oxygen sensor operation has begun. Valve operation is load- and speed-dependent during driving operation. The valve is completely open at full throttle and completely closed during deceleration fuel shut-off.

 

* Substitute function: *

 

If power to the valve is interrupted, the valve remains completely open. This could lead to rough running at idle speed and during partial load acceleration.

 

* Self-diagnosis: *

 

The ECU recognizes open circuits and short circuits in the component.

 

 

Kev

94 VR6

[Joe M 0]

Ok, so theres only 2 pipes going to the carbon can, one is a fuel tank breather that can just be unhooked and put out the way. The other is the crank case breather and should have a filter put on it.

Anything else?

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

I have removed the canister (with help from BANANA MAN) - will take photos in a bit...

 

Edit: And here are some photos:

[Joe M 0]

Cheers Andi, the pics helped as I would probably have left that valve thing on and capped the pipe at the end.

I notice youve cut the pipe right back (first pic) and also cut an capped the smaller pipe, any advantage to cutting it this far back? I capped the pipe at one of the joins so I could reverse the process if I take the notion.

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

I didn't cut the pipe - all the original pipework is in tact - thats a new little bit of tubing with the cap in it.

 

So still reversable.

[ray_vr6 1]

Finally got round to fitting my turn2 cai last night. A couple of things

 

1) The filter being so low - I recall a couple of stories about early Audi Quattros which had their air box duct down near the front bumper, and when they hit e.g. flooded roads - sucking water into the engine and suffering extensive engine damage sue to "thermal shock". Anyone think this is a problem worth worrying about?

 

2) Does anyone know what that electrical connection associated with the pipe work is for?

[stormseeker 0]

Finally got round to fitting my turn2 cai last night. A couple of things

 

1) The filter being so low - I recall a couple of stories about early Audi Quattros which had their air box duct down near the front bumper, and when they hit e.g. flooded roads - sucking water into the engine and suffering extensive engine damage sue to "thermal shock". Anyone think this is a problem worth worrying about?

 

2) Does anyone know what that electrical connection associated with the pipe work is for?

 

"Thermal Shock" !!! :D :D

 

I thought it was "Hydro Lock" or somthing like that - i.e. water gets in the cylinders and can't be compressed so generally shags (technical term!) pistons/rods etc. i.e V V V expensive. BUT you have to have the air filter completely submerged - i.e. about 2 foot of standing water!!!

 

My mate's got a whopping big CAI on his Prelude with the filter right down in behind the bumper chin spoiler, and he's sooooo woried about hydro-lock that he's started looking at aftermarket bypass valves you can get - they fit in your air intake tubing closer to the throttle body and if they detect water in the pipe they they open a valve to the outside world (effectivley bypassing the air filter but stopping you hoovering up that big puddle/ford/stream/river etc.)

 

e.g. the AEM air bypass valve. I've seen a video demo of this where they have the air filter in a bucket of water and the engine still running OK!!! :D

 

In answer to your question 2. the electrical coonections are to operate the "Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80)" aren't they???

[Rams 0]

Andi, Im sure that blue sensor is for the air temperature! :D

[Joe M 0]

Andi, Im sure that blue sensor is for the air temperature! :D

 

Nah, thats a seperate blue sensor that can be reached in the hole that the carbon can came out of. It clips ito the front bumper.

The connector andi shows was connected to the valve thing that you can see joined to the pipes.

[Joe M 0]

Nah, thats a seperate blue sensor that can be reached in the hole that the carbon can came out of. It clips ito the front bumper.

 

Anyone moved this up to the airbox area to moniter intake air temps with the mfa instead of external temp? :lol:

[Rams 0]

Thas what I thought Andi had done, from the pic it looks very similar to the one that lies on the bumper.

 

Could you tell me where the sensor should go by the bumper please?

 

Mine just looks like its dangaling down. :lol:

[Joe M 0]

On my old 16v it was left dangling, but on the vr it is clipped into a small hole just to the left of the towing eye cover thing.

[stormseeker 0]

Anyone moved this up to the airbox area to moniter intake air temps with the mfa instead of external temp? :lol:

 

Have to be a different type of sensor or out of fast moving air (if you want an accurate reading) due to "wind chill" effect.

[Rams 0]

Excellent, thankyou. I will make sure mine gets clipped back in. It does look like its a more functional connector at first as I though, ' where the hell does that go to'!