Changing rear discs on a VR

[kebabman 0]

I've bought some discs and pads and am going to have a crack at changing the rears on my VR this week. Anyone done this recently and/or have any hints/tips to make the job easier?

 

Cheers :)

[h100vw 0]

You need an 8mm allen key, one in a socket. 13mm and 15mm spanners. Slacken the handbrake cables off which takes two 10mm spanners.

 

Get new bearings too. Much easier than re-using the old ones, which is just plain tight.

I use some big sockets to drive the races into the disc.

24mm socket to undo the big nut.

Gavin

[kebabman 0]

Right will buy some bearings then! Cheers Gavin 8)

[h100vw 0]

Also advise using the old grease caps, new ones always need fettling to get them into the disc. Be prepared to replace the 8mm allen bolts cos they can be a b1tch to remove. Might be worth checking VW have some in stock before you start.

Gavin

[Supercharged 2]

And remeber you will need a windback tool for the rear caliper pistons!

[kebabman 0]

A windback tool? Where can I get one of them? Seem to remember a screwdriver doing the job on my 306 :?

[Supercharged 2]

Halfords dude, £20

[h100vw 0]

You can do it with some pliers at a push.

Gavin

[kebabman 0]

Ah right, well guess I may as well get the right tool for the job....the shopping list grows. :lol:

 

Cheers for the advice lads :)

[h100vw 0]

Get a cheapy Laser one. Most motor factors sell them

[Roger Blassberg 0]

And get new ABS cages. The old ones may well get damaged when you remove them from the old hubs.

 

About £10 each from VAG. Tap them on gently.

 

Clean all the crud off of the caliper carriers, or the new pads will stick.

 

The hub nut is not done up tight - just enough to stop the hub from rocking on the stub axle, which means little more than finger tight.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[kebabman 0]

Does anyone know what torque to do the hub nut up to....in the porter manual I have it seems to say 210nm then slacken it off by 1 notch? But Roger Blassberg says little more than finger tight? Don't want it to fall off but don't want to do it too tight either :?

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The figure you refer to is most likely for the front wheel bearing.

 

The rears are taper rollers and must not be done up tight or they will be wrecked in no time at all. Do the nut up until the washer between it and the bearing can just be moved sideways by a screwdriver pushed against it without levering it against the hub, then put the locking cap on to line up with the hole in the stub axle and put in the split pin. After a few hundred miles, check it again because the bearing may settle slightly.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[kebabman 0]

All done, bit of a pain getting the ABS cages off, but managed it in the end without damaging them. Cheers for the tips guys :)

[Timo. 0]

I'm half way through this at the minute, currently waiting on the rear bearings coming.

 

The rear of the car is sticking up in the air, with one wheels/disc/caliper/carrier off and the other side intacted.

 

Those ABS cages are a twat!! managed to get it off though, fecked the inner bearing trying to hammer it out hence why I'm waiting on new ones coming!

 

Note to self:- Dont be so tight!! Must be the scottish influence :)

 

T.