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gradeAfailure

Starting Problems - advice needed!

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After reading all the threads on the subject, I'm actually fairly sure that my problem is down to the ignition switch, but I just wanted to double-check before scooting off to GSF tomorrow, as there are a couple of anomalies that I'm a little concerned about...

 

Since Saturday my car has not been starting - turn the key to the "start" position and you get a couple of clicks behind the dash and in the engine bay, though not from the starter solenoid. I assumed it was the starter til I managed to get the starter to turn over today by hotwiring the solenoid directly to the battery.

 

However, when measuring the voltage of the ignition feed to the solenoid when turning the key to the "start" position, it reads just over 5V for a couple of seconds then drops to 0V, with the key still fully turned. If the ignition switch was knackered, I'd have been expecting to not get any volts there at all, right?

 

Also, when I bought the car, the seller fitted a new switch as it had been suffering from dead-switch-syndrome, and I know it was definitely changed because I popped round whilst he was doing it!

 

Any advice most welcome, just so I don't unnecessarily spend money on an ignition switch I don't need! Cheers guys!

 

BTW, I have a meter with me, so can happily check voltages and the like...

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Give the switch a miss and go for a "push button start" and save

urself loads of time.

 

If the seller fitted a new switch and ur going to fit a new switch,

theres a problem, so u can bypass the problem and fit a

"Push Button Start"

 

I did

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I'll bear that in mind, but it's not really my style...! 8)

 

Just out of interest, did you fit yours into the cigarette lighter housing?

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I agree with NG.

£1.14 'red switch' from Maplins, bore out the fag lighter and little, and you need never worry about the ignition switch again!

 

Does sound typical ig/sw failure though bud.

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Aye.. agree with the ignition switch diagnosis. Personally would rather stick with the OE setup rather that removing the fag lighter. I don't smoke but, still...

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I relocated mine to the passenger under-glove-box tray.

In fact its a dual one.. ;)

 

Edit: just done a quick snap as I went to pick the Mrs. up from the station:

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Even if you use a push button starter you have not corrected the problem with the ignition switch. If the switch is indeed hooped then all you have done is removed the load from one part of it yet the main electrical system is still putting a load on it. No offence intended but using a push button start switch is not the correct way to solve this problem.

 

Remove the ignition switch plug with the starter soilinoid unplugged and and then jump the power input (circuit 30) to the start terminal and go under the hood and measure the voltage, if you are not getting a drop then you know the wiring is good and it must be the switch. You can do the same as what you did above but going around the switch. If this works then jump the power with the solinoid unplugged in and see if it will spin the starter under load. If these work out then you know there is a 99% probability it is the switch.

 

The problem with this switch is that it has a lot of current running through it and this burns the contacts. The best way to correct this is to use relays to take the elictrical load. If you put relays between the ignition switch and the cars wiring you would never have to replace the ignition switch again, ever. This is the same problem the lights have on Corrado's, no relays means the switch has to have all of the current passing through it where as a relay only takes minimal current to activate it.

 

Cheers, Dennis

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Used a relay with my push-start... ;)

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Cheers for the advice guys, much appreciated!

 

Dennis - after reading your post, the wiring diagram I have made a bit more sense :) so will check that out in the light tomorrow...

 

Think I'll be toddling off to the stealers for a switch as I've heard the GSF ones are a bit flimsy? I know that's what was fitted just before I bought the car...

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yup, with Dennis all the way here... Relays are the best way, and using a GENUINE VW switch will help too... The plastic in the GSF / ECP ones is crap compared with the genuine ones, so they'll over heat faster and burn out WAY quicker than a genuine one... :roll:

 

My new corrado has remote start on the alarm and that's wired into the ignition switch... This means that the switch no longer controls the starter motor (or ignition! :| ) as such, but instead it now controls the remote start module, so there's practically no load on the switch... It still works the same as standard though... 8) I only found this out this weekend when I found out how badly the alarm modules had been fitted... the wiring's spot on (nicely soldered and taped up well) but the modules just aren't attached to anything... well, at least, they WEREN'T attached... ;) :lol:

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I'll second that Henny, i also changed my switch to one from GSF and it doesnt feel as tactile as my 12 year old original one.

If you can hear clicking try cleaning up the earths too, because this problem normally occurs if a there isnt enought juice in the battery or the circuit isnt completeing due to bad earth.

HTH

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The earths were cleaned when I took the starter out on Sunday so I'm pretty sure they're ok - especially as the car will start when hotwired!

 

After a lot of fiddling after work today, I'm 100% sure it's the switch, but the problem is that on the Passats, the steering wheel, stalks and entire lock barrel mount have to come off the steering column in order to replace the switch! :shock: :(

 

So there is no way I'm replacing it with a GSF one (no disrespect, but I'm having issues with one that's only two months old... ;)), so will have to order one from the stealers and spend an afternoon replacing it...

 

On the plus side, I managed to give the switch a good enough smack that it now just about works if you really really turn the key hard! :lol:

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On the plus side, I managed to give the switch a good enough smack that it now just about works if you really really turn the key hard! :lol:

 

I guess you found a way round it for the time being then.. let me know if you need hand replacnig the switch..

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Mate you should have a word with Rory and see if he has the receipt (unless you got it with your paper work) abd go back to GSF for a refund if possible... might help with the uber wacky prices of the crazy steelers you know

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gradeAfailure, Did you fix this issue in the end mate? Mines doing pretty much the same. Very temperamental when trying to start i.e. have to keep turning on and off/wiggle key to start her.

 

How long did i take you? what was the cost off the switch from vag?

 

and after the 19 questions above.. anyone recommend a breakers switch(second hand)

 

20 questions over lol

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Errrr, yeah, kind of... :oops:

 

Due to having to pull everything off the steering column to replace the switch (unlike 'rados), I decided I couldn't be arsed basically, and was just gonna put up with it as it was!

 

It started getting worse though, so whilst changing my clocks, I took the steering column shroud off, placed a screwdriver against the ignition switch and gave it a damn good smack - and for some reason it's now working perfectly! :thumb right:

 

Probably not much help to you though... ;)

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I've been having problems recently too firing up my "badboy" 16v (1.8) & also thought it must be the dreaded ignition switch. It was getting embarrassing just sitting there turning the key & praying the bugger would start. To cut a long story short (as Spandau Ballet once sang) after searching desperately thro' one of my Haynes manuals (Golf & Passat) I tightened up the negative battery terminal & touchwood she's started first time every time since.

The terminal felt tight enough by hand but i guess just needed a harder screwing! :geek:

I had to have a new distributor recently & assume the AA dude who kindly fitted it did not tighten up the terminal enough.

Certainly worth checking it before splashin' the cash on a new switch or starter motor.

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