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theRuler

steering rack wobblage

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if wobblage is a word then it applies to the tie rods on my steering rack.

 

the steering has been vague for a while now, there is play. you can wobble the steering wheel and feel it, quite a lot.

 

now initially i think ball joints and / or track rod ends. But when we had the car up on a lift the play is actually in the individual arms, that disappear into the rack.

 

can the rack be tightened?

 

the car has done 151k (vr6)

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If Bondage is a word, then Wobblage is allowed into the CF dictionary.

 

They'll be your innerage tie roddage jointages squire. This season, you'll be mostly wanting to change the whole roddages sir, £73 from your local stealerage, or £30 from GSF. Both roddages come with both ball jointages.

 

The inner ones need a major sized spannerage to undo...and space is tight, as per usualage.

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Is it me, or is there an inordinately large number of silly posts on the forum this week? :lol:

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I think that the sunshine we had over the weekend has melted people's brains... :silly: :lol: (no it's not just you... )

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The inner ones need a major sized spannerage to undo...and space is tight, as per usualage.

 

i am no stranger to tight spaces when it comes to rod action :crazyeyes:

 

thanks for the tippage.

 

i will change them there arms then.

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Good luck mate!

 

The GSF rods use a smaller size spanner slot IIRC, so you may be alright.

 

And just remember not to bend your rod too much as you negotiate it into the tight space....

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i'll have the car on a lift, so i should be ok.

i'll bet they are done up tight too. :(

still, tight is right, i guess.

 

is it worth changing the rod ends while i'm in there?

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Track Rods = 32mm spannerage - make sure you get ones with 6 sides (as opposed to 2) if you buy from GSF as space is very limited, you need to move the rack until you can get a spanner between the wishbone and subframe...

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The inner end threads need to be scrupulously clean and treated with thread-locking compound before tightening. In fact, the Russek book advises taking the rack out, but it's possible to do in situ.

 

Have a good look at the gaiters at the same time - it's so much easier to replace them when the track-rods are out because one side has a fixed (non-removable) outer end, and they are cheap enough to do as a precautionary measure.

 

On my 16V Passat (LHD, so a bit of an odd-ball) there was lots of head-scratching about whether the rack is a TRW or ZF item; it makes a difference. Maybe this doesn't arise with a C.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

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thread lock eh

good call. i would probably have omitted that.

 

good heads up on the gaters too. if they dont come with the rods i'll get them aswell

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