Phil K's new engine running in with a few issues

[Phil K 0]

Well as some of you may be aware NGU is home at last with new engine and now the running in period has started... I've covered 80 miles so far (940 to go :lol: ) I have been driving carefully and not racing the engine and the revs haven't been taken over 4K but during this time it's showed a few problems:

 

- If the revs get to 4K it misfires quite badly

 

- Once warm, the engine hunts at idle and other times the idle drops to 500rpm... when this happens it loses power when trying to pull away

 

- This morning it took a while to start

 

Not having run in an engine before I don't know if I'm being paranoid or should just chill and expect it to sort it self out as it builds up the miles...

 

I expect the hunting and drop at idle is to do with the ISV but could this also cause the loss of power?

 

And as for the miss fire at 3900 - 4K well that just worries me big time!!!

 

Any thoughts much appreciated

 

Phil

[dr_mat 0]

A brand new engine shouldn't show ANY problems. It should just feel a little "tight" and restrained.

Is it actually NEW or is it rebuilt? How many ignition components are new?

[Phil K 0]

It's a new bottom end with a rebuilt head.. all the ignition components are what I had orriginally although sparks and leads were changed about 2 or 3 months before if came off the road at the begining of last year :?

[Phil K 0]

Oh yeah - the other problem is with the hand brake light which flickers under aceleration... I assume this is just a lose wire but if anyone has any ideas as to where I may find it that'd be really great 8)

[Phil K 0]

bump....

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Regarding the handbrake light,have you checked the brake fluid level?,it could be down due to worn brake pads,with regards to the misfire,i had the same problem but higher up the rev range with my old golf 16valver,turned out to be the distributer's hall sender that was shorting out under full power.

[Jim 1]

You're a patient man Phil.

 

Quite honestly I can't imagine the garage bill for the rebuild you've just had done has been cheap.. and i'd seriously be considering going back to them to at least point out some of the problems. It didn't go into the garage with those issues, so it sure as hell shouldn't come out with them regardless of whats been done in the mean time!

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Its most likely an eltertical problem, check all of the earths are sound as a good starting point.

[Cougar 0]

I had the same problem with the light and the misfiring, turned out that the small red wire that plugs into the end of the starter kept coming loose. Finally fell off and the car would not start. Don't ask me how that effects the other powered systems but I crimped the plug a little fitted it back on and all the problems were gone. Hope that works for you too.

[HiAsAKite 0]

Dude, hope you get it sorted...

 

(and no I can't offer any real helpful advice!)

[Walesy 0]

You're a patient man Phil.

 

Quite honestly I can't imagine the garage bill for the rebuild you've just had done has been cheap.. and i'd seriously be considering going back to them to at least point out some of the problems. It didn't go into the garage with those issues, so it sure as hell shouldn't come out with them regardless of whats been done in the mean time!

 

 

bloody right!!!....its not up to you to sort it mate.....TAKE IT BACK!!!

[Phil K 0]

Cheers for the help chaps... it will go back! It has to be serviced and checked by them after the first 1K so I'm planning to let them know about the issues durring the week and see what they want me to do...

 

Oh yeah, one more thing... my MFA reads 4.1 mpg when reset at 80!!! I'm fairly sure that it isn't using that amount of fuel as I'd have had to put a hell of a lot of petrol in to have done the 330+ miles covered so far... any ideas - could this be a vacume pipe lose somewhere or just a case of having to reset the mfa?

[stevemac 0]

I with Scruffythefirst here, the garage may not have reconnected all of your earth leads Phil.

 

Can't remember if your MFA is vacuum or electrically operated but I suspect all of your problems will be linked to the same cause.

[Henny 0]

VR6 has an electrically operated MFA (no vacuum pipe connector on the back of the clocks...)

[dr_mat 0]

I thought the car in question was a 16v though..

 

(But you're right about the VR6 having no vacuum pipe.. If your MFA is reading funny on a VR, there's been some serious tampering with the clocks or the ECU.)

[Henny 0]

:oops: thought it was a VR... :oops:

 

Need to catch up on some sleep after Inters... :| :roll:

[Phil K 0]

I thought the car in question was a 16v though..

 

(But you're right about the VR6 having no vacuum pipe.. If your MFA is reading funny on a VR, there's been some serious tampering with the clocks or the ECU.)

 

It is a 16V ;)

 

I don't have a vacume pipe on the back of my clock either though so could that mean my ECU is shot?

 

If so would that possibly acount for my other problems?

[g60bv 0]

i feel for you phil. :cry: i would have shot the car some time last year. this would have certainly relite the candel for the insurance claim. :snipersmile: ye ha

[Phil K 0]

to be honest part of me wants to rip it up and break the lot for parts...

still, now that I've come this far I'll stick it out and see how it goes - it can only be a couple of small problems to iron out

 

Also discovered on Sunday that my reverse lights don't work :roll:

 

It's now booked back in on the 31st to sort everything out and have full service...

[Baz2004 0]

Check your sensors on the right side of the head Phil, these things can often break when taking the head off and can cause various problems if they are not replaced.