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daytona600

Lowering my VR6

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A friend was admiring my 93 VR6 that I bought on Sunday but suggested it would both look & handle better if it was lowered by 30mm

 

Has anyone any experiance of this? How much, whats involved does it work?

 

Cheers

Nick

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check the old posts, but I can warn you that a 30 mil drop will probably not be visible if the car is running on its original shocks. I lowered my 1992 G60 by 60 mil on the original shocks and it is not excessive by any means.

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It's a matter of opinion.

A huge number of people lower their cars. The majority of them go for 30-60mm drop, with a drop of about 35mm putting the wheels about the "centre" of the arches, which is what most people aim for.

Personally I'm sticking with standard. The handling is great as is, and I don't have to fear for my sump over speed ramps..

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I bought a VR6 Corrado on Saturday too, which has alraedy been lowered by 30mm, It has a set of Eibrech springs (or something) but the ride is very harsh and one of the first things i do to the car is return it to it's original settings. Hopefully this should stop me feeling evry single bump in the road.

Can anyone reccomend a good kit, (gas shocks and springs) that offer a nice smooth ride.

 

Steve

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Apparently Eibach springs and shocks are supposed fairly good, stiffer than the standard but the softest setup from the aftermarket range. I have Weitec springs and shocks on mine right now and I might change after a while, to Eibach also.

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er id do a search before VR6 gets hold of you!! :D

 

 

 

:lol:

 

Good to see I've got a reputation 8)

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Apparently Eibach springs and shocks are supposed fairly good, stiffer than the standard but the softest setup from the aftermarket range. I have Weitec springs and shocks on mine right now and I might change after a while, to Eibach also.

 

Try a combo of Bilstein or Koni top adjustable shocks with Eibach or H&R springs...

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You need to get the camber and tracking set up after replacing the suspension as it will be wildly out and be sure to note where the top mount is set as this will affect the handling and geometry loads

 

 

 

Chris

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The lower control arms should be parallel with the ground to get "optimum" handling.

 

My word, and I thought I was the only person that said that, although more accurately, what you want to avoid is having the wishbones pointing at the sky after lowering as it means you've got no suspension travel left and the driveshafts can and will clout the chassis legs.

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You need to get the camber and tracking set up after replacing the suspension as it will be wildly out and be sure to note where the top mount is set as this will affect the handling and geometry loads

 

 

 

Chris

 

Don't forget to change all your bushes/top mounts while your @ it too

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To be as little more specific you will probably find it a good idea to replace the following all @ the same time -

 

Rear Beam Bushes

Topmounts + Bearings

Wishbones + Ball Joints

ARB Bushes/Track Rod Ends/Drop Links

 

then @ least you know all your suspension is the same age & will therefore hopefully wear @ a similar rate.

 

all this will set you back in the region of £250 for OEM standard components (try Euro Car Parts - the rear beam nut & bolt kit is main dealer only i think) & actually a little bit less if you go for uprated Powerflex polyutherane bushes for example,but judging from what has been said earlier i'd prob advise against this as the ride will be a lot harsher than standard.

 

then as Chris said get your camber & tracking set up with a quality garage that has laser alignment equipment - should cost you around £35 certainly no more than £50 to do this

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Koni TAs and H&R springs. Price made me feel faint, but its the first lowered car i've ever driven that allows your teeth to remain in place and is actually an improvement all round rather the being just cosmetic !

 

They ARE worth the delieross ! imho anyway.

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