Changing VR6 valve stem seals

[Rpmayne 0]

I have been getting the odd puff of grey and sometimes blue smoke when changing gear and booting it, doesn't do it all the time but is using about 1.5litres of oil per 1000 miles. :shock: The MPG maybe unrelated, but the compression is good so I am thinking the valve stem seals are worn. :(

 

Does anyone know whether these can be changed with the head on. Have done head work on 8v volkswagen engines with the head off, but removing them looks simple compared to this lump. Any help with the following would be much appreciated:

 

- How easy is it to take the cams out? No nothing about the timing chain removal / refitting.

 

- Can the spring collets be removed without taking the head off?

 

- If so, how can the valves be prevented from falling into the cylinders?

 

- Whats the limit for valve guide play? If this is over limit then obviously I going to be in trouble. Apparently a professional fitting job / megabucks.

 

- Can you buy a purpose made tool for removing the valve stem seals?

 

Have only recently bought the car, spent most of the money I had on a respray and tyres, and general tidying up. Need a cheap solution.

 

Cheers.

[Rams 0]

I know that there is a tool to hold the cams in place to save you having to re time your engine.

 

Sorry, thats all I can help you with as this is out of my league! Im sure you will get all the info you need from thses guys :)

[Scott 0]

Its a big task but am doing the same job myself :lol:

 

Except I am taking the head off as I wish to fit new valve guides / seals / tappets and the head cleaned up and poss skimmed - Im having a engineering shop do the head work therefore saving on the labour which is the big job...

 

Upper timing chain needs to come off and the cams taken out - timing can be a issue but there are tools to lock them into place.

 

Apart from lack of room, timing chain and size of the head (Its big and heavy ) it isnt much different from your normal 16V ...

 

I did get the job costed up as a drive in and drive out job - local VW specialist quoted £600 in labour alone.....Engineering shop reckon around £200 for the head work.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[vr6storm 0]

of course you could buy one of these and see if you think you can handle the job yourself

[Scott 0]

Looks good - where did you get that?

 

Am using bentley at moment *:)

[vr6storm 0]

Looks good - where did you get that?

 

Am using bentley at moment *:)

 

i bought it at the VW-books stall at biggar this year ......all for the princely sum of £6...........but you can order them from here

 

http://www.volkswagen-repair-manuals.co.uk/

 

seems to be detailed enough if your a competent mechanic and of course saves you getting the Bentley manual all dirty :wink:

[Scott 0]

Very true *:) - will get one ....

 

Just whipped the spark plugs out of the VR to find number 1 and 6 a little sooty for my liking so it looks like the head is coming off sooner than I thought *:(

 

Also added my cold air feed now

[sc16v 0]

Rpmayne wrote

If so, how can the valves be prevented from falling into the cylinders?

 

A little trick is to get a spark plug smash the ceramic and the centre out so your left with the threaded part, now weld a air line end onto it.

Remove the cars spark plug. place the tool youve made into the plug threads. no place and air line onto it. the air pressure will seat and keep the valves up so they dont fall through. know you can work on the seals.

Done this loads of times on 16vs but not changed VR ones without heads off. :D

[macca 0]

I have had classics in the past, using a length of line pushed through the plug hole enables the valves to remain seated with out dropping on to the pistons, pull out the line when finished. You can then chage the seals. Might work??

 

And dont forget to keep one end of the line out the cylinder :lol:

[Rpmayne 0]

Cheers for the ideas. Have just ordered the VR6 engine manual for about £7.00. Will probably try the above tricks with the head on, and if everything goes tits up I'll just remove the head. Will let you know how it goes for a laugh.

 

As for parts, and if the head does come off, GSF don't seem too unreasonable:

 

- Head gasket set £57.50 (inc. valve stem seals, inlet & exhaust manifold gaskets)

- Head bolt set £15.00

- Hydraulic lifters set £111.00

 

Is there anything else which is worth replacing at the same time? How about the timing chain tensioner?

 

Also, where do you get the tool to hold the cam timing? Does this clamp the cams together so you take them out together and inline? Ta

[Rams 0]

Rpmayne, I would only buy a VW headgasket not from a secondry supplier that way you have piece of mind that the quality is good. Lets face it, you dont want the job to be done again!!

 

The price from VW is £75 so not much in it for the best fit gaskets and if you sell the car it looks better than something as majour as the head has parts from VW for the job! IMO

[dazzyvr6 0]

you would be better off taking the head off and replacing the valve guides at the same time

[Scott 0]

Yeah agreed:

 

Genuine head gasket ONLY

 

And yeah replace valve guides too as these are known to wear after 100k miles.... like mine have hence the reason for taking the head off in first place - doesnt cost much to have them replaced either!

[Rams 0]

They are around 12 followers, which will cost you in the region of £100 / £150. Will make your engine sound smooooooth 8)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah agreed:

 

Genuine head gasket ONLY

 

And yeah replace valve guides too as these are known to wear after 100k miles.... like mine have hence the reason for taking the head off in first place - doesnt cost much to have them replaced either!

 

Couldn't agree more. Never use pattern gaskets, they're just not up to the same standard as VAG. I believe VW have improved the VR6 head gasket in recent years.

 

How's the head job going Scott?

 

Kev

[Scott 0]

The recent VW gasket is actually steel Im told now.....

 

Im still trying to find the time to take the cylinder head off - it not likely to be the end of August now unfortunately as my efforts are being put into finding a new job! :(

[fla 9]

slightly different, but i want to remove the (un bent)valves from my spare cylnider head - is there any easy way to do this?

[Rpmayne 0]

If the head is off you need to remove the cams, pull the hydraulic lifters off then use a spring compressor which compresses the valve springs so you can remove the split collets with a screwdriver. The valve should then fall out the other side. Just need to get hold of the valve spring compressor.

[fla 9]

OK thanks for that. How could you do this without a spring compressor, ie using normal garage tools?

[aide 0]

you'll struggle, if you can manage it at all, the valve spring compressor has access through side so you can remove the colletts.

 

compressors are £44 from halfords, get the bigger one like this

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469