Mamps 0 Posted October 24, 2005 I've started putting the cyclinder head back together and i'm a little worried. I'm putting the new valve stem seals in with a socket. I manage to push the seal down enough i think but i'm not sure cos you can't see if the seal is flush to the bottom. I have taped the socket with a hammer to push the seal further, but i don't want to damage the seal. In fact one of the seals top rim split when i did that, so i'm a bit nervous now. Any tips??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted October 24, 2005 New seal time if you are not sure. Not worth fitting the head to find it split. GSF sell them in singles I think. I don't think a hammer is the best tool for the job TBH. They should go on ok with the socket, an extension and a good shove. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mamps 0 Posted October 24, 2005 Damn!! I followed what the Haynes manual said :-( Ok, i'm gonna take them off again and put new ones one without the hammer. Thanks mate! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zacon 0 Posted October 25, 2005 Hi, I'm about to do the same job as Mamps, only I hope to keep the old head. I'm thinking of buying GSF part. no 11482G, which is the G60 head gasket set, as well as new valves. I hope there's no damage to the pistons. I've understood that it is advicable to change the head bolts too, are those included in the head set? Also, do I need to shape the head somehow before refitting the new gasket, or is it good enough to ensure that there are no traces of the old one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mamps 0 Posted October 31, 2005 Hiya Yes, you should get the head bolts too, they are one time use only. They don't come in the gasket set. You can buy head bolt set from gsf. i've managed to re-build the head and have put it back onto the block now. Not much left to do until its back on the road!! Good luck!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zacon 0 Posted November 4, 2005 Unfortunately, I found out two of my cylinders were cut up on the inside, after removing the head :( I bought the car cheap with the problem, but I hoped the lack of compression was just due to faulty valves. I now suspect the water pump broke while the old owner drove the car, causing the engine to overheat. He just had the cambelt changed, without changing the water pump. I heard it's a common problem that old water pumps break right after you change the cambelt, is this true? Anyway, I went to Sweden a couple of days ago and bought a complete new motor, so hopefully, everything will be fine when I get the new one up running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted November 4, 2005 I can't see how a cambelt can affect a water pump... they're not connected at all... the only thing that you have to do anywhere near the waterpump is to remove its drive belt to take the cambelt off... :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zacon 0 Posted November 4, 2005 Yeah... I'll have to second that. The water pump seems to have it's own belt on the G60. In some engines though, the water pump is powered by the cambelt, including in my old car. I still can't see how changing a cambelt can break the water pump, but I've heard it's actually common on many cars. I'll take out the water pump from the old engine tomorrow. I guess I hope it's really broken. Any other ideas, if it's not something with the water pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites