Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[dirtytorque 0]

Riley,whats the best way of attacking changing the lambda?

cheers.

 

Early night

Cup of coffee

Bacon and egg sandwich (poss switch to ham and cheese or have that later on)

Couple of crafty fags

 

Then get stuck in :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like cheese

 

 

 

Does it all have to be in that order?

 

I like "green eggs and ham"

 

 

So a big spanner and a swear jar then.!?

[Riley 0]

there should be 12v ignition live on it

 

Cheers mate :) Thought so, but best to double check these corrado type things :shock:

[boost monkey 0]

Jack car up at front right, shove a stand under sill.

 

For future ref, sills buckle _real_ easily... don't ask me how I know :( :(

 

I recommend putting stands across the rear subframe mount or even behind that on the last bit of the box-shape chassis rail.

[8vtornado 0]

never put stands on the sills, put them on either the chassis rails, or i tend to put them on the front subframe towards teh back of the engine, and at the rear i stick them on the rear axle. take it from me, im a mechanic!

 

as for the problem, its a real bummer, ended up reading this thread more or less the whoole way thru (i got bored at work!) like the others said, sounds like theres a backfire coming back up into the inlet, does the inlet get particularly hot? wot cam are you running? it sounds fuel related tho, theres nothing that can now be wrong wtih teh head/block unless swarf was left in there somewhere. the sound on ur vid (sneezing) sounds like its caused by the missfire in the inlet raising pressure and then blowing out thru the isv (like overboost). have you tried different injectors in it (even if theyre standard ones still) and a standard cam (if urs is different)

 

another thought that just occured is a sticky valve lifter occasionally holding the inlet valve open very slightly intermitantly, causing all the pressure to go back into the inlet. did you have new lifters wen you had the head work done? im just babbling now, hope this may spur u on a bit.

[Riley 0]

Aye,i never actually leave it on stands, i have a big industrial jack which holds it and the stands go under there a mm or two from touching the body of the car :)

 

Its the standard cam mate :)

The inlet does tend to get hot, and i have tried my mates injectors with no change...And the sticky lifter/valve was an idea hence the head came off and everything replaced/reseated...again with no joy :(

 

But then they have to be ruled out as holding the WOT switch closed totally cures it...Really thought i was getting somwhere when i found that holding the WOT switch irradicated the problem, but im stuck again now :(

 

Cheers,Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

Aye,i never actually leave it on stands, i have a big industrial jack which holds it and the stands go under there a mm or two from touching the body of the car :)

 

Its the standard cam mate :)

The inlet does tend to get hot, and i have tried my mates injectors with no change...And the sticky lifter/valve was an idea hence the head came off and everything replaced/reseated...again with no joy :(

 

But then they have to be ruled out as holding the WOT switch closed totally cures it...Really thought i was getting somwhere when i found that holding the WOT switch irradicated the problem, but im stuck again now :(

 

Cheers,Neil.

 

I know u have changed the fuel pump but if you know anyone with the gear I would get a fuel pressure reading done..

[flusted 0]

agreed, as i keep saying, mine done exactly this, the vid is identical to what mine was doing, i fitted red tops and different fpr and the problem dissopeared.

Its got to be fuel pressure related, as you press wot switch it richens it up as it ignores the lambda?

[Rob_B 0]

without reading the whole thread, i would say it sounds like a lambda problem, as taping up the WOT switch eliminates the probe from the system. so if it were me, i would make sure that there is 1. a good earth to the probe (straight to batt) 2. 12V across the lambda heater wires (if not it wont work, and if there hasnt been it will be shot) and 3. the wire to the ecu is in tact and not shorting somewhere. bearing in mind that the signal is done on only 1V (0-1), any loss will mess the ecu signal up which relies heavily on the lambda on part throttle.

apologies if this has been covered, but this is my initial thought after reading about 3 pages

 

12V on lambda probe pin 1-derived from fuse S18, which goes to plug G1 pin 8 (on fuseboard). this fuse also supplies the fuel pump on a different plug.

0V on lambda probe pin 2-derived from negative terminal of battery

0V on labda probe pin 3-derived from engine mount, but is usually crap, so change.

lambda probe pin 4-derived from pin T25/2 on the ecu. again, this needs to be checked carefully.

[dirtytorque 0]

without reading the whole thread, i would say it sounds like a lambda problem, as taping up the WOT switch eliminates the probe from the system. so if it were me, i would make sure that there is 1. a good earth to the probe (straight to batt) 2. 12V across the lambda heater wires (if not it wont work, and if there hasnt been it will be shot) and 3. the wire to the ecu is in tact and not shorting somewhere. bearing in mind that the signal is done on only 1V (0-1), any loss will mess the ecu signal up which relies heavily on the lambda on part throttle.

apologies if this has been covered, but this is my initial thought after reading about 3 pages

 

12V on lambda probe pin 1-derived from fuse S18, which goes to plug G1 pin 8 (on fuseboard). this fuse also supplies the fuel pump on a different plug.

0V on lambda probe pin 2-derived from negative terminal of battery

0V on labda probe pin 3-derived from engine mount, but is usually crap, so change.

lambda probe pin 4-derived from pin T25/2 on the ecu. again, this needs to be checked carefully.

 

Have you tried any of the above riley?

 

cheers

[Riley 0]

Cheers guys :)

 

I have checked the earth to lambda, and it was mint...but i haven't run one direct from the battery to rule it out, so i will try that 8)

 

Pretty sure i checked the voltage of lambda heater wire maybe a year or so ago :lol: But i shall also doble check that too. 8)

The bottom of Robs post confuses me a bit :oops: is the fuse box labeled G1 pin 8 etc?

 

Cheers again.

Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

yes,the fuse box's hae their slots labelled alphabetically.

Because of the way my wiring has been done I couldn't swing my fusebox down far enough to see the letters without taking the dash out.I know that sounds extreme but trust me I tried.Hopefully you will have more slack so you can sling it down to see.

[Rob_B 0]

Cheers guys :)

 

I have checked the earth to lambda, and it was mint...but i haven't run one direct from the battery to rule it out, so i will try that 8)

 

Pretty sure i checked the voltage of lambda heater wire maybe a year or so ago :lol: But i shall also doble check that too. 8)

The bottom of Robs post confuses me a bit :oops: is the fuse box labeled G1 pin 8 etc?

 

Cheers again.

Neil.

 

the plugs are indeed labelled up alphabetically, but some letters are 2 o 3 plugs e.g. G1, G2 etc. then each plug has up to 12 pins i think. it is all labelled on the fuseboard, but it can be a real tw@ to read.

just to clarify, each plug has a letter (A,B,C1,C2 etc) and then has X number of pins. so plug G1, pin 8 is the 12V fror the lambda heater.

I hadn't read that you had checked these (30 pages is way too much for me!), but this is the route i would check. certainly wont harm to do it if you we cant think of anything else :(

[Riley 0]

Cheers mate...

 

Had a think about it and, i think its gonna be pointless double checking, as the problem is still there if i unplug the lambda probe.

 

I know of a few g60's that run perfectly fine without them plugged in too.

 

Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

... just because the problem is till there with the lambda un-plugged dosn't mean it is not the lambda or its associated wiring?!

 

If the ECU is not getting proper EGO info because their is a problem with the EGO circuit then disconnecting the faulty component isn't going to change anything.

 

 

Ah well.

It seems to have us all beat. :(

[Riley 0]

Oh aye...i guess there could still be a problem with the lambda heater wiring, maybe shorting or something?

 

I can definately rule out the signal wire anyway, as i snipped it right at the ecu with no change to the problem.And it does fluctuate nicely between 0-1 volts as soon as its up to temp.

Don't worry, i soldered the signal wire back and its good as new.Not something i wanted to do like (snipping it), but its ruled out a problem with it i suppose.

 

I think i will check for 12v on the probe heater wire at the ecu next...Is it pin 25? think it is...

 

Thanks again,Neil. :)

[Riley 0]

Ok,,,according to this there is no lambda heater wiring running to or from the ecu? :?

[Rob_B 0]

Ok,,,according to this there is no lambda heater wiring running to or from the ecu? :?

 

Cheers guys :)

 

I have checked the earth to lambda, and it was mint...but i haven't run one direct from the battery to rule it out, so i will try that 8)

 

Pretty sure i checked the voltage of lambda heater wire maybe a year or so ago :lol: But i shall also doble check that too. 8)

The bottom of Robs post confuses me a bit :oops: is the fuse box labeled G1 pin 8 etc?

 

Cheers again.

Neil.

 

the plugs are indeed labelled up alphabetically, but some letters are 2 o 3 plugs e.g. G1, G2 etc. then each plug has up to 12 pins i think. it is all labelled on the fuseboard, but it can be a real tw@ to read.

just to clarify, each plug has a letter (A,B,C1,C2 etc) and then has X number of pins. so plug G1, pin 8 is the 12V fror the lambda heater.

I hadn't read that you had checked these (30 pages is way too much for me!), but this is the route i would check. certainly wont harm to do it if you we cant think of anything else :(

 

correct, the 12v for the heater comes from the fuseboard! only the signal wire goes to the ECU

[Riley 0]

Ahh cheers mate, ive found a diagram that shows it (red/white) running to fuel pump...Just struggling to understand how a problem with this wire would cause the problem. :?

 

My heads on a few other things at the mo so i can't get stuck in 100% into the problem. Please keep the thread going though, i appreciate the help massively. :)

 

Do you think i should find/check out this red/white heater wire that leads to fuel pump?

 

Neil.

[8vtornado 0]

kinda not helpful but are you still using htis car or is it sitting in a garage for the last 2 n a half years? it looks rele nice, such a shame its got this strange problem thats stumped everyone. a car like taht should be out showing every1 what its all about!

[Riley 0]

Hey thanks mate :D Check out CorradoG60.co.uk for a rundown of it since day 1.

 

Its only recently come off the road, but due to the council sticking some rediculous speed bumps all around the house...The corrado was getting damaged, hence its off the road until i move house or find somewhere closer to keep it :shock:

 

Cheers mate,Neil. :D

[Rob_B 0]

Ahh cheers mate, ive found a diagram that shows it (red/white) running to fuel pump...Just struggling to understand how a problem with this wire would cause the problem. :?

 

My heads on a few other things at the mo so i can't get stuck in 100% into the problem. Please keep the thread going though, i appreciate the help massively. :)

 

Do you think i should find/check out this red/white heater wire that leads to fuel pump?

 

Neil.

 

the 12V supply does not run to the fuel pump (wrong direction), it is however derived from the same place within the fuseboard (internally). so this means that the same fuse in the fuseboard supplies the fuel pump motor and the 12v supply for the lambda. however, they come out of the fuseboard in 2 different places, so they are 2 seperate wires.

od you have a bentley manual by any chance?

[Riley 0]

Very confusing for me :oops: Can i not find the red/white lambda heater wire then?

 

I can possibly borrow a bentley off a mate if he has it back off someone else...

 

Cheers mate. :)

[Rob_B 0]

yep the wire comes from plug G pin 8 on the fuseboard

get a manual and i will tell you which pages to look at, dont want to scan anything as its very frowned upon on here!

[Riley 0]

yep the wire comes from plug G pin 8 on the fuseboard

get a manual and i will tell you which pages to look at, dont want to scan anything as its very frowned upon on here!

 

Cheers mate, surely the mods will allow some scans for someone in need of massive help? :(

 

Tested for voltage at the lambda heater wiring...14 volts, and the earth does indeed run to earth although it shows 0.005 volts on the meter.

 

Sounds about right id think?

Would ABSOLUTELY LOVE! :( to find the culprit in time for V.A.G 2008 on 20th april...

 

Please help!

 

Neil.

[Riley 0]

Anyone fancy coming to have a look at it? :( Im in Burnley/Lancs...

 

Anyone with some magic tools? wideband jobbie etc? Its niggling my head like you wouldn't believe after 3 damn years! :eek:

 

Don't really know where else to turn. :(