removal of supercharger, what belt size to buy so I candrive

[potatonet 0]

ok so the corrado keeps cool until I hit the gas pretty much, once I do that it will sit at about 200F. I have replaced a lot of crap, o-ring flanges, etc, the only thing I notice thats out of phase is that the Air/fuel ratio sensor says that my AFR is leaner when it gets cold outside, IE it fluctuates between OK and lean a lot! never in the Green (good) range.... anyone got anything. Only when I hit the gas, and only leans out like that when its cold, always drives hot with a 180F thermostat! fan is always on I just want to fix it! Timing was set today 6 degrees advance (in stock specs). the coolant BOILS over and explodes out of the top of the expansion tank, I get coolant inside from the hold in the firewall, running too hot for some reason? which sensors could do this? list them all and I will buy them all! Im tired of dealing with an overheating modded G60!

[Supercharged 2]

Potato - Is this a new problem or the same one you've been having for ages??

 

No offence but it makes it easier to troubleshoot if you keep it all in one thread so we know the history...

[Henny 0]

just out of interest, have you ever had a leak down test done on this engine? sounds very much like the problem I have with my coolant system at the moment which is caused by a weaping headgasket...

 

Open up the expansion tank and stick in an exhaust gas analyser to see if there's any hydrocarbons in the coolant system... if there is, then you've got a leaky headgasket which is pressurising the coolant system causing it to boil over/run too hot... :|

[potatonet 0]

hmmmm sounds like a plan thanks, yes same problem just easier to repost new topic, looks like a couple hundred dollars in parts and another saturday morning.

[potatonet 0]

is there any easy way to fix a weeping headgasket? IE tightening head bolts or is this a bad idea because they are stretch bolts... I have a copper headgasket and I am probably going to buy another one to fix this, unless someone can give me a reason not too... this would be the perfect time for a 2.0L conversion... no money = replace the headgasket... =-(.

 

when i replaced the headgasket last time I torqued it correctly but the values obtained by my torque wrench were not the same on all 10 bolts, because of that extra 1/2 turn, I turned it into two 1/4 turns, got something different every time, its really easy to do i just dont want to keep doing it. kinda like my transmission...

[potatonet 0]

THE OTHER problems that I am having are that my idle is hard to adjust easily (stays about 750 no matter what happens to the screw). when I untwist the screw I feel like Im losing boost there or something... =-/, where do I get the O-ring if this is the problem?

 

AND my AFR gauge is reading fluctuations in the mixture at idle. it will read rich then back to ok, rich then ok, only does it once the sender is warmed up, otherwise it reads rich. what are the conditions if your CO pot sensor is going bad, I just adjusted it the other day and it seemed fine while adjusting. it should sit at ok for the majority of the time and mine is cracked out, you can also read above that when it gets cold that it goes leaner as well.

 

AND sometimes when my engine is warm my car wont go, then it will pick up and fly, the revs will go up but its like I got no power or very little, then it backfires and everything is back to normal and I take off... I thought it was the dizzy so I got a new one, nothing... still does it! when the engine is hot you will try to press the gas but you get no response and have to blip the throttle, it will then backfire a few times and go back to normal... anyone got anything on any of these 3 topics,

 

plus whether I should get a copper headgasket again or not... =-)

 

thanks

 

Jonathan

[VEEDUBBED 0]

You seem to be having the same issues i had when i fitted a g60 charger to my 2.0 9A engined corrado,first check your idle switch on throttle body to see if it's sticking,use a meter because the clicking means nothing,my swith was sticking open/shut although it clicked fine when checking staticly.

The A/F gauge on my car reads stoich when first started and then sweeps when the engine starts to heat up,i've got a horrid idle as soon as the car goes into closed loop,when the engine is first started the idle is rock steady,as soon as the gauge sweeps(normal)goodbye steady idle.

Regarding the engines temp,mines the same even though i fitted a lower temp.thermostat,radiator fan switch,i sometimes wonder if the car's instrumentation is all that accurate seeing also as i fitted a large front mount oil cooler,the oil temp still reads 110/112 when beating on it...

[potatonet 0]

yeah I have a FMOC thats about half the size of the radiator for a G60, oil temps stay about 188-192F which is perfect. Ill just replace the switch, WHERE do I get one because I keep hearing things about these switches but ETKA only replaces the WHOLE ENTIRE throttle body and I dont want to pay 242 US for a TB.... any help would be appreciated.

 

Im so frustrated with the heating thing, Im kinda with henny on the weeping headgasket though because I dont think the torque values were the same all around when I tightened them.

 

Does anyone have a SOLID torque number to torque to? not this 1/2 turn after the final turn BS that the bentley gives.

[potatonet 0]

whoa thats one expensive switch.......

 

anyone got a better price than 104us, about 60 UK pounds!

 

as I was driving today I did notice there could be something else,

 

if the fuel pressure wasnt great enough because of a failing pump, I believe this would cause the cutting out at idle and the backfiring, but would this low pressure cause a lean mixture in the system? the backfiring only goes right when I turn on the car so could it be low pressure to start and as I start driving it builds more pressure, thus not doing the backfiring while I drive or cutting out?

[potatonet 0]

henny does your "weeping headgasket" cause you to lose any water from your coolant system?

 

I think I narrowed it down to AFR issues, I was on the freeway and I never once floored it, my AFR was telling me "lean as a mother" and my temp was going up, I never got it to the point of full throttle switchness... could be the neuspeed chip, could be the fuel pump... what else affects the air to fuel ratio on G60's? my O2 sensor is pretty recent so I dont think its that.

[stevemac 0]

Does anyone have a SOLID torque number to torque to? not this 1/2 turn after the final turn BS that the bentley gives.

Correct cylinder head bolt tightening proceedure is very important. New gasket will fail VERY quickly if this exact proceedure is not followed. You must tighten the bolts in the correct order & to the correct torque, exactly as descibed in the manual.

 

In an extreme case - irrepairable damage to the cylinder head could result (it will warp and/or crack).

 

This could be the root of your ongoing overheating problems.

 

The AFR takes a signal from the Lambda probe. So far as I'm aware - a leaking head gasket will mean that the AFR readings may be misleading.

[potatonet 0]

I followed the bentley to the dot, there is no failure of the gasket as there is no coolant in oil and vice versa. what BBM said is that you have to have both surfaces very flat (milled) and a lot of copper gasket maker, which I did both of.

 

I am not losing any water, I only lose water if I step on it which causes it to boil over and I can still rarely do that without losing water, so this is why I think its AFR related.

 

if the head was warped I would be losing water, and if it was cracked (even hairline) I would be losing water all the time, there would also be a significant amount of collant seepage as well. this is not happening.

 

I gas it (no to full throttle) and it will get pretty high, I dont gas it (keep revs lower that 4k) and the engine is as happy as can be, low temps yadda yadda. bad AFR and a very lean mixture is what Im thinking here. the co pot is at 520 ohms. Im thinking neupseed chip as it does it moreso when its cold, chip could be getting bad signal from (air density sender?/co pot?) making it think the air is hotter making less fuel go in.

 

I also think my pump is going cause I can hear it, it also turns on at random times when the car is off. yeah I know thats wierd....

 

or you could all be right and my headgasket is leaking, but hence the issue of not losing water... =-/

[potatonet 0]

ok now I randomly lose power severely, the engine keeps going and what not through the revs, very smoothly I may add. boost is reading about 12-13 lbs and my car isnt going anywhere anytime soon....

 

I back of the throttle for a second, press it back down a few times rapidly, the thing backfires, then I have power again, the thing is that I might have power for a long time and I might have power for a short burst then its back to no power.

 

what are the signs of a failing fuel pump? I can DEFINITELY hear the thing when I put the car into "run" on the ign switch.

 

does anyone have anything or am I out of luck as always with this car.

 

oh and BTW tonight when I drove home from work, the AFR read rich at idle then slowly trickled down into the REALLY LEAN section of the AFR gauge, and the idle started to really suck, the car attempted to add more fuel or less air and brought the mixture up a bit for a second but it went back down to lean after a second or 2.... once again... fuel pump?

[potatonet 0]

wow no one was on from today I guess its a holiday in england or something....

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Allright potato,no luck yet on your motor?,well don't worry 'cos i thought i had my running issues sorted when i changed the 2 throttle switches,no such luck,the bloody engine(2.0 16v.g60) STILL f@#ks around at idle,up and down like a yo-yo when hot and a strange flat spot at exactly 2900rpm as well as the usual phantom A/F gauge that when either hot or cold engine will sometimes dissapear of the scale into lean and the car won't move and just splutter and fart untill full throttle is slammed down,the engines not even pinking(C/R=10/1) because this annoying problem occurs only after overrun,long periods at idle etc,somethings not allowing the ECU to advance the timing for a spilt second but never on full throttle....

[potatonet 0]

YES! YOU HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM THAT I DO WITH MY G60! YES THANK GOD! but does your engine overheat? Im going to try fuel pump and see if that does anythig. or have you got a new fuel pump and it doesnt help? anything that I shouldnt buy would be of great use right about now! I just bought a new dizzy so we know thats not it and we know the switch isnt it. Im going to attempt a different ECU because I have one laying around. after that I believe Im going to try the knock sensor.

[potatonet 0]

ok so I ordered a copper headgasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, head bolts and a cam oil seal, goign to pull the head off this weekend and see what I can come up with

 

main reason is that when starting my car it runs 3 cylinders till it slightly warms up, during that initial warm up and revving 3 cylinders I get white smoke out the back, so its gone on one cylinder. the headgasket gods do not like me, only 12,000 miles on this headgasket and it copper too! thank you everyone who told me it was the headgasket, I now understand why you did.

 

the one thing I am concerned about is that would the water blown out by the engine damage the O2 sensor? and do I have to buy a new one, this one has 8k miles on it if that.

 

looks like Im also buying an UBER torque wrench, about 125 US or 70 UKP

 

ugh!!!!!!!! :x :x :x

[Henny 0]

water in the exhaust won't damage the Lambda sensor... there's loads of water thrown out in the normal exhaust gas anyway, so a slight blow into the coolant system like you have won't make that much of a difference to be honest...

 

Yeah, you'll need a LARGE torque wrench AND a long socket bar as you should never use a torque wrench for the final 2 90degree tightenings as you'll screw up the calibration of the torque wrench...

[potatonet 0]

yeah I have a breaker bar that I can do it with, ANYONE have a tip on a good torque wrench to get, I would get Snap-on but they are 350 US for a torque wrench with a 1/2" drive, sorry guys not metric over here.

[Henny 0]

don't worry, we all use 1/4" 3/8" or 1/2" drives over here too! ;)

 

Any reasonable torque wrench that'll go around 10% over what you need for the head bolts will do the job for you... I got mine from Halfords (not much use to you being in the US) for around £80, so you should be able to get something similar over there for about the same amount of dollars from what I saw in New York last week... ;)

[potatonet 0]

thanks henny, you pulling the head off this weekend as well?

[Henny 0]

nope, next weekend... need to wait for a couple more parts to turn up first... :|

[potatonet 0]

yep same here, waiting for the parts to arrive, their coming from oregon so they should arrive about friday afternoon =-/ right onto the car after! woo hoo...

[sciroccotune 0]

timing maybe. no amount of cooling will work if its to lean... May be worth checking both static and ignition over.

[potatonet 0]

could be but Im blowing coolant out the back so I got to replace it. it just runs on 3 cylinder for a second or 2... =-) could be cylinder #4's jankey wire...