Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
g60griff

boost leak

Recommended Posts

it runs great when driving normal and there is a good flow of cold air but as soon as i go into traffic or it starts to get hot it gets really hard to drive, i put my foot down and it coughs and splutters and manages to go. when driving it normal i wait for the oil temp to get to 86 then give it a bit itl pull really hard in all gears but its short lived :mad: because it starts to sort of just cut out with my foot flat down if i leave it, it will kick back in with a right kick so i dont do it much cos now its slightly damp it just spins the wheels. i cant see any leaks any where but the 90 degree angle pipe that goes to the tb is showing alot of little cracks, so im thinking this may be the problem what ya reckon???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds a bit like digi-lag. Also when you've booted a tuned G60 with the std IC it the power tends to drop a bit due to the IC struggling to cope.

 

Get saving for an SNS chip and Golf IC!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ive got an sns chip, just havent put it on. im gonna change the 90 degree pipe i think for a silicone one cos its 53 quid plus vat from the steelers for a replacement. you missing the g then rack? even all the problems?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

May well be that one of your sensors is on the blip, perhaps your lambda sensor is on the way out, or maybe air temp sendor in the air intake downwind of the intercooler is on its way out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes mate, missing the G big time. The vectra is ok but it's not the same....

 

Once I've got my ass settled in a house I'm gonna build a MK1 G60.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good lad. just priced up a silicone hose from my old place of work and they said they would do it for 20 quid. not bad. so il try that to start with then go from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

right put a new silicone hose on the tb to intercooler. still the same. it makes a funny noise like blowing into a book and the pages flap about sort of sound when the revs get to about 3000rpm then it gets to 4000rpm and cuts out with my foot flat down it then kicks back in at about 3000rpm again then pulls all the way up, till i change gear then the same thing again, this is when its at its worse its not like this all the time. but its really pissing me off now. im sure the noise is air escaping but i cant be sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

g60griff, Mine does exactly the same - disconnected lambda probe & car runs much better.

 

As disconnecting the lambda makes a difference, I don't think that's the problem although I'll be renewing it this weekend.

 

I'll let you know when I cure the problem. :wink:

 

So far - I have new injectors, rotor, dizzy cap, plug leads, plugs. Old plugs had done approx 6k & were still in good condition - changed them anyway. Tried both W6DPO & W5DPO - no change to problem.

Blue temp sensor is good & I also have SNS chip.

 

Problem on mine feels just as though either the timing or fuelling is way out (timing ok - set to 6 degrees BTDC last weekend). Fuel pressure & flow to be checked this weekend, I have a new pump here which I can fit if necessary. All vac pipes are less than 12 months old but I'll also be replacing those this weekend too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ive also replaced dizzy, rotor arm, plugs, fuel filter. ive got an sns chip, just wondering wether i should try it or not. ive been on a rolling road near me and he couldnt diagnose the problem because he said he couldnt re-create the road conditions on the rollers. ive disconnected the lambda aswell and there was no difference in running. he checked the fuel pressure/flow and everything was fine. :?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My first impression was that the problem was due to my ported & flowed cylinder head. I'm still using the standard exh manifold.

 

My understanding is that the manifold needs to have a wider opening than the cyinder head ports to reduce the possiblity of the exhaust gasses trying to flow back into the head. This would explain some of the problems but not all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
explains some of the problems for you not for me. :roll:

The fact that you have similar problems may mean that the head/manifold idea may not be the cause.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah, i might have a go at the boost leak test at the weekend. see if that turns up anything, i might just try the sns chip and see if there is any difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you try the method g-man has posted about checking for boost leaks. Disconnect the plastic ball that controls the boost return flap. Make up a soapy soultion (washing up liquid and water) and squirk it around the areas you suspect are leaking. Then manually close the boost return. The system fills with air and you will spot any obvious leaks. But dont hold the flap closed for too long. I think g-man says something like 3 secs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or do the old boost display on the MFA diagnostic mode 2 trick.

 

That is if your vacuum sensor still works, as I suspect it doesn't on mine, but then again, Stealth has yesterday confirmed that I have no boost leaks, the Lader is producing 0.68 bar nicely with standard pulley and IC.

 

Tempest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine's definitely not boost related - problem also occurs when car is off-boost.

 

Disconnected lambda probe yesterday - car runs much better. No more "holding back" when attempting to accellerate. Power has definitely now returned, front wheels loose all grip when I floor the throttle in 2nd at anything less than 3k rpm. :mrgreen:

 

In addition to the other test's I'll be doing this weekend, I'm going to put the cam timing back to where it should be. My 270 deg cam is quite far advanced at the moment & could be affecting the running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just been out for a little run, didnt miss a beat, had a little play with a cupra r, he couldnt leave me, but i bet if i go out in the car now it will do the thing again where it misses. :mad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

right been for another run, did the boost reading test thing on the mfa. i managed to redline it in third and got a reading of 1950, i tried to redline it in 4th but ran out of road. so i think this proves that it isnt boost related with mine aswell, what psi is that roughly anyone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

g60griff, 1950 is good boost for a Jabba charger.

 

Tempest called in this afternoon & tested my fuel pressure & pressure retention - no problems at all with either.

 

Current train of thought is that my problem is lambda probe related - fitting a new one in the morning & will post back with results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stangely enough - Jabba charged me for sorting the lambda wiring too . :shock:

 

Not their wiring that's at fault though - all connections are good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...