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ChrisL

ABS PUMP

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I have been advised that the ABS pump may be faulty, before buying one how do I check if it's o.k and confirm its getting power?

Does it run constantly when the ungine is running i.e check for voltage?

Where are the relays to check?

How would I know if the ECU was faulty not the pump?

 

Can anyone help on this please?

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Oh and the ECU is located in the side panel by the passenger footwell, if you have had a leak into the car then the plug maybe corroded, worth having a look and giving it a squirt of WD!

 

What VAGCOM errors are you getting?

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I don't have the codes, I will ask the garage for them.

 

In the meantime I put my meteron ohms and tested the sensors last night and got approx 8 for the rears, 7 for NS front and 1.04 for OS front.

I also disconnected the wiring to the top part of the pump (4 wires to the plug, a large brown and a large red & blue plus two small wires) and started the car, I was only reading 1.02Volts, is this correct?

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8 OHMS?!

That's almost open circuit ... Should all be a lot higher than that.

Does sound like the OS front is radically different from the others, so that may be your problem.

Get the error codes before you buy an ABS pump...

The pump only runs when the brake fluid pressure is lower than it needs to be, so it will prime when you start the ignition cold, and it will come on to top up the pressure if the ABS gets activated while driving along. It won't stay on 24x7.

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Got a replacement ABS pump thanks to dazfx, is it a straight forward swap with the existing unit, is there anything special I need to do or do I just undo the inlet and 4 outlet pipes and bleed afterwards?

Is bleeding the brakes straight forward, what order should they be bled in?

Can anyone help on this.

 

Thanks.

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Gotta be careful to make sure the pressure is dissipated before you remove any of the lines. The ABS pump runs internal fluid pressures in the regions where the fluid will cut through bone if it escapes...!

Not wanting to scare you, but be sure to pump the pedal loads with the ignition off before even thinking about unhooking the lines.

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Pump the pedal will remove this pressure then? on refitting of the pump do I need to bleed the brakes in any special order? does the abs pump need to have the fuse pulled to stop it working during bleeding?

 

Thanks

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never heard of that one.

 

It applies to the valve block, not the brake pipes external to the ABS valve block. Also, it's a warning for the Teves 02 system fitted to the LHD cars. The RHD cars are Teves 04 which is entirely different in components but acheives the same ABS/EDL functions (EDL is traction control).

 

The Teves 02 has a hydraulic pressure reservoir sphere (accumulator) and it is this that needs to be depressurised by pumping the brake pedal. This item is not used on the Teves 04 system. Pressurisation is acheived solely by electric pump.

 

I would still take precautions when splitting open the valve block but the external pipe work will only have residual pressures as per a normal braking system.

 

.

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well I have never had any pressure what so ever when removing abs units and I have removed 3 this year.

 

Must be a lhd thing

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Thnkas for all the advise, a friend of mine is fitting the pump this Friday however he has read that the pump should be fitted by a main dealer only as the fluid needs to be pressurised whilst bleeding and no air can get into the pump. Is the pump straightforward to fit, I don't want to break it by not fitting it properly.

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however he has read that the pump should be fitted by a main dealer only as the fluid needs to be pressurised whilst bleeding

 

The manual specifies both ways, ie. pressure bleeding or manual pumping with opening/closing the bleed nipple for the Teves 04 system.

 

Pressure bleeding cos the garage uses the equipment rather than it being a requirement on this system.

 

(The LHD system (Teves 02) is similar (pressure or manual bleeding) but the ABS pump runs with the ignition on while bleeding).

 

.

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Thanks RW1, appologies for the barage of questions but I don't want to knacker the pump before starting. Does the pump need to be primed at all? the assembly has been off a car for some time and looks completely dry, can I just take mine off and fit the new one and bleed?

 

Thanks

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I would have said it would be better to just replace both parts together, I think, rather than splitting and trying to refit both.

Certainly that's what Stealth did with mine last year.

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Sorry for the confusion, I am replacing the assembly consisting of the pump and valve block below. The guy fitting it read that the abs unit should only be fitted by a main dealer as it should not be run dry (but it already looks dry) and needs to be pressure bled. He said something about getting airlocks in the system? Looking at the unit it looks a simple job to change with the only pain being the bleeding afterwards.

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Will the car have to have the ECU reset to clear the ABS fault and extinguish the light when the new pump is fitted (if it cures the problem)?

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No. The light will go out by itself when the ABS unit passes the power-on diagnostics. The fault will remain logged until you either clear it with VAGCOM or reset the ECU.

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Changed a bulging NSF flex brake line on Friday and ABS light was still on. Left for work Saturday morning and heypresto no ABS light!!!

Thanks for all the help on this and looks like I have an ABS pump for sale.

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