What 1.8t engine should i put in?

[tallpaul1977 0]

Hi guys,

 

im having trouble find out what engine is best to use(dont want dbw) and what parts i need to fit a 1.8t into my K plate 16v. Tried searching but with no luck.

 

thanks for you help

 

Paul

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

the 225bhp bam engine is your best bet for out and out power it comes out of the audi TT! have a look on english and german ebay and on the web for engine sellers!

 

also there was a thread on here a while back telling of a company that i believe ving60 used that are very good and will do everything for a very competetive price! just cant remeber what there called!

[corradophil 3]

225bhp is was also fitted to Leon Cupra R's.

 

I think the 210bhp ealier engine is just as tunable, and I'm sure I read somewhere it is actually stronger, maybe something to do with conrod design, but I can't remember.

 

Alternatively go for an AUQ 180bhp from the TT or Leon Cupra.

[Claret Badger 0]

I think for ease of conversion you want an early 20vt

 

no drive by wire issues

 

audi A4 - AGU

 

I think

[mk2_20vt 0]

BAM engine is good, you will need a cable throttle from an AGU engine or an 8v2.0 mk3, both of these will bolt straight up. If you are not using DBW then i presume you will not be using OEM management so will need a standalone ECU. QPEng do a plug and play kit that comes complete with modified harness, MAP sensor and MBE ECU and is pre mapped for about 270BHP on a BAM. You can use your existing gearbox and upgrade to a VR6 clutch with is more than up to handling the power. You will need to find a suitable front mount intercooler, G60 one is the easiest to fit as requires minimal modification, just a bit of hacking of the slam panel. I have done a couple of 20vt's into corrados so feel free to ask any other questions.

[tallpaul1977 0]

Cheers for the help guys. What year did the 1.8t become dbw? If i get a engine without dbw can i not use the standard ecu? What parts do i need to get at the same time from a breakers such as keys, ecu etc? Also i have seen EIP selling complete tuned engines, can i get one of those and run a remapped standard ecu?

[mk2_20vt 0]

The AGU block is the only transverse engine that isnt DBW so if you want to run factory management with no DBW that is what you will have to use. The AGU is only 150BHP though. You are better off going standalone really, by the time you have had the immobiliser removed from the ECU and had it remapped its no more expensive

[h100vw 0]

Having DBW is no handicap. csutom-code.co.uk can sort the immobiliser and remap all in one for 200quid on top of the remap.

 

You can do standalone for similar mony but then you have to get it mapped if you don't buy from qpeng.

 

Having the ODB and everthing connected is useful for troubleshooting if anything goes wrong.

 

I had a few snags on the Cupra I had in my sig. A coilpack and a difficult to hunt down boost leak. VAG-COM allowed me to go straight to the duff coil pack.

 

Gavin

[tallpaul1977 0]

A friend has a DBW Cupra Leon and said that the engine doesnt always respond fast enough compared to a engine without it. Anyone else find this with DBW?

 

So when I get the engine I need

 

complete block

coil

ecu + wiring loom

keys?

[Supercharged 2]

There was an AGU block for sale at the Pod, brand new with crank but no pistons - £100 - did anyone buy it??

[corradophil 3]

tallpaul1977, I had no problems with the dbw being slow to respond to inputs. Obviously there is a little turbo lag i.e. you put your foot down and a second or so later the turbo is starting to do it's stuff. To be honest the only time I ever had a problem with the responsivness was pulling out onto roundabouts at low revs when you needed to accelerate quickly. You kind of pull out very slowly into the path of an oncoming car and then just when it gets close it comes on boost and drags you out of harms way. After a while I got used to accelerating earlier and that was not a problem.

[h100vw 0]

DBW is pretty funny. You can't leftfoot brake, cleaning water off disks, the ECU gets confused and closes the throttle.

 

 

TBH I didn't notice any lag at all, the Cupra just pulled whatever revs and obviously when on boost it pulled much harder. I didn't feel that there was much lag, you only had to get to 2500 which is only just off tickover really.

 

Gavin

[CoxyLaad 0]

I think you may be confusing turbo effects for the DBW pedal. Check out a normally aspirated engine with a dbw pedal like a 24v. No such problems there.

[GazzaG60 0]

well id drop the drive by wire if you cant left foot Gav. goota keep that spool up tjhen just lift off.

 

never really saw the issue with a throttle cable. is ther a reason for DGW

[dr_mat 0]

No it's true, the ECUs are getting "cleverer" .. Even naturally aspirated cars now have smart throttles. A mate had rust build up on his brake disks and he was told to brake whilst driving along to clear it (fair enough), but of course, when you put your foot on the brake, the throttle no longer responds (the engine decides it's stupid to do both!).

He was then told that to get round that you have to press the throttle TWICE - i.e. get off it and then back on, the ECU then decides you are doing this deliberately and actually responds.

[aposegil 0]

well ive got a 20v AGU bottom end with AJQ head ported sitting in one of my garages

 

its missing a few bits to run it on original ECU as i was planning to either go with Revo or Custom Code to remove the immoboliser and custom remap

 

but the more i think about throwing more money at the corrado and time the more im put off

 

decissions decissions

[h100vw 0]

He was then told that to get round that you have to press the throttle TWICE - i.e. get off it and then back on, the ECU then decides you are doing this deliberately and actually responds.

 

'Note to self' try this on the way home.

 

Gavin