Cylinder_Head 0 Posted May 30, 2006 hello, my fellow corrado lovers. I just bought a Corrado G60 8V SUPERCHARGED(HECK YEAH!) when I noticed that my oil pressure light was blinking. :cry: and oil temps raising to 210F degress at idle :shock:. recently I changed my oil using Mobil 10W30 Semi Syn and with a bosch premium oil filter and set my timing at the flywheel 6 Degrees with blue temp sensor off. ( rough at idle). Oh and I just installed a P-Flow Cone Filter and its making very low noise when revved. So what do you think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cylinder_Head 0 Posted May 30, 2006 just remembered I messed up the CO potentiometer by turning way too much AAHHH, what should I do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cylinder_Head 0 Posted May 30, 2006 I am curious hose that belongs to my old airbox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted May 30, 2006 get a multimeter an measure the resistance across two of the connector pins. turn it back until you get about 330 ohms. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cylinder_Head 0 Posted May 30, 2006 cool, also its a 1990 8v g60 does it matter? and will that hose on the airbox affect performance? thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted May 31, 2006 no makes no difference, 330ohms is the factory setting for all G60 engines and only affects the CO at idle, after that its done by the lambda probe... Looks like you have a warm air system on your airbox (we don't have these on UK G60's) the vac pipe operates a flap inside the airbox to let warm air in from the exh. manifold at very low temperatures, so it won't matter, just tape up the vac. pipe from the engine to stop crap getting into it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest 0 Posted May 31, 2006 Oh and I just installed a P-Flow Cone Filter I would remove that again, as those type of filters don't filtrate the air enough (compared to the standard paper elements in the air filter box), which is OK for a naturally aspirated engine, but not for the G-Lader (particularly its scroll which rotates at speeds of 13,000 rpm! When little particles that made it through the filter hit the scroll when its doing that speed, your scroll will look like the moon;'s surface after some time, as the material is a soft magnesium-alloy). Looks like you have a warm air system on your airbox ...the vac pipe operates a flap inside the airbox to let warm air in from the exh. manifold at very low temperatures, Correct, as my US-G60 also has that flap which is operated by vacuum in the shown hose. 330ohms is the factory setting for all G60 engines I thought it was 500 Ohms? Tempest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted June 1, 2006 or 480ohms....?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted June 1, 2006 dont worry too much about a magical ohms setting for the co pot,, just make sure it is at about 450 - 500 ish and if you want it set up properly you need a co meter or better still an AFR wideband,, its the only way,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted June 1, 2006 330 ohms is stated in bentley manual I think. I thought 500 ohms was recommended by tuners for Tuned G60's, is this ok for standard engines? Does it really have to be accurate when its just for 'on idle'? I agree about the airfilter, I run a K&N element in the standard airbox, cone filters suck hot air from the engine bay too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest 0 Posted June 1, 2006 330 ohms is stated in bentley manual Can't find that in my Bentley ;-) It just tells you how to set the CO-Pot using a CO-analyser. Tempest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted June 3, 2006 "I think" I've read it somewhere, may of been in the Haynes Fuel/Ignition systems book. When I checked mine it was 330 ohms so I left it at that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites