Eleanor 0 Posted June 20, 2006 can anyone help on an irratic idle when engine warm then tries to cut out :cry: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 20, 2006 Welcome to the forum! - what engine is it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 20, 2006 My money's on 2.0 16v. Roll up roll up... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 20, 2006 Does anyone have any ideas getting fed upnow spent shit loads and still got no where right down to new fuel pump, acumelator, pipes, coil, spark plugs, h t leads, distribitor, rota, air filter, running out of cash and brains Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 20, 2006 Has the car had a full fuel-pressure test? It sounds highly like a fuel problem to me and that's the only real way you're going to find it I think. I'm thinking maybe the warm-up regulator is iffy and making the car run overly rich. Do you know what the warm-engine CO level is? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 20, 2006 That just sounds like poor set up or a throttle body quadrant not touching the switch on closing due to a sticky throttle cable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 Wouldn't you expect that to act similarly under hot or cold running conditions though? The closed-throttle switch operates the idle stabilisation valve and the over-run cut-off valve. There aren't many temperature-dependant systems on the K-Jet injection. I can only think of the warm-up regulator and the thermo time switch for the cold start injector. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 she mainly does it when her temperature has reached normal but if I am stuck in traffic then she starts to go a little insane once I have switched her off for a while to cool down she is ok again for a while also she breaks down at 3000 rpms even though I have put in a new coil cant be ecu as thats new from vw (ouch!!!!) put in new rad, heater exchanger, thermostat, cant be exhaust sensor got stainless all the way through so is manifold Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 21, 2006 mine's doing this too. doesn't seem to follow a pattern. just random. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 Mine seems to be doing it all the bloody time getting on my TITS!!!!!! but at logger heads with it she always bites me in the asse some where Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 If it's doing it all the time then it should be fairly easy to find. I'd still suggest the fuel pressure test as a first step. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 I'm a girlie where do I start with that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 21, 2006 I'm a bloke and i have no clue either!! Guide us oh great ones........ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 It took me about a week just to change the fuel side of things it took me 4 hours to put my alloys on it took 3 days to change a poxy wheel bearing can anyone HELP on fuel pressure testing ????????????????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 It'd probably have to be a garage job as it requires specialist tools. However, thinking about it, the warm-up regulator could only cause fuel enrichment when warm if it was stuck shut; I'm not sure that could actually happen. It's worth checking the closed-throttle switch as suggested previously since you can do that yourself. If you look at the throttle body where the throttle cable attaches you'll see some mechanical linkage, etc. There will be a small switch that's operated by part of the linkage when the throttle closes. Make sure it 'clicks' when the throttle is closed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 ok mate cheers for the info will give it a go will let you know how I get on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 My Bosch manual lists the following possible faults for a sketchy idle... 1) Incorrect fuel pressure 2) Cold-start valve leaking 3) Idle stabilisation valve faulty 4) Vaccuum leak 5) Fuel injectors worn 6) Control plunger binding or fuel distributor faulty Again, most of those would be evident when cold also. How many miles has the car done? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 170 k total 35k on full rebuild nothing left on the car old really Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 where can I get a manual for my raddo using a Golf one at the moment but it can only help so much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 21, 2006 lol. 4 hours to put your wheels on!!! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 21, 2006 where can I get a manual for my raddo using a Golf one at the moment but it can only help so much ebay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eleanor 0 Posted June 21, 2006 I know this might sound a little daft but it does remind me of my old Mark 5 Cortina (showing my age now) when the automatic choke used to stick on the old v carbs it used to do the same thing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 You can't really. The Mk2 Golf manual is the closest available for the 1.8 16v Corrado. However, there is a book published by Bentley that covers theory of operation and fault-finding of the K-Jet system (and other Bosch constant injection systems). Click me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 I know this might sound a little daft but it does remind me of my old Mark 5 Cortina (showing my age now) when the automatic choke used to stick on the old v carbs it used to do the same thing That's not daft at all. If the thermo time switch is causing the cold start valve to operate continuously (or the valve is just leaking as per '2)' in the above list) you'll find that the car runs increasingly rich as it warms up. That'd fit with your description of the fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites