Oil labelling explained

[oilman 0]

What’s written on your oil bottle and what does it mean.

 

This post may seem like going back to basics but I am constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore no idea of what they are buying/using.

 

To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!

 

1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)

 

2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)

 

3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)

 

4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)

 

Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism

 

So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

 

THE BASICS

 

All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

 

VISCOSITY

 

Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

 

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

 

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.

 

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

 

SPECIFICATIONS

 

Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.

There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

 

API

 

This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel © specifications.

 

The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

 

PETROL

 

SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

 

SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

 

SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

 

SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards

 

SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

 

Note:

 

All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.

 

DIESEL

 

CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

 

CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

 

CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine

 

CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

 

CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

 

CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

 

CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels

 

CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

 

Note:

 

All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.

 

If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

 

ACEA

 

This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

 

Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

 

A1 Fuel economy petrol

A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)

A3 High performance and/or extended drain

A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines

A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

 

B1 Fuel economy diesel

B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)

B3 High performance and/or extended drain

B4 For direct injection car diesel engines

B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

 

C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.

C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.

C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

 

Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

 

Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

 

APPROVALS

 

Many oils mention various OEM’s on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this.

 

Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

 

Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

 

VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

 

Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils

 

MB – 229.1

 

Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.

 

BMW – LL98

 

Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.

 

 

FINALLY

 

Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.

 

Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid!

 

Recommended for use where……………

May be used where the following specifications apply……………

Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification)

Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)

Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

 

Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

 

Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.

 

If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our website at http://www.opieoils.co.uk.

 

Cheers

Simon

[Henny 0]

Thanks! 8) stickied... 8)

[Rimshot 0]

In light of my recent 'smokey 1.8' thread, I feel this is very appropriate. Especially as the oil i've been using in my car has the viscosity of water. Maybe thinner than water come to think of it.

 

Helpful. Cheers

[craigowl 0]

I have a 5 litre batch of 15W/40 oil bought from Lidl supermarket for £3.99.

 

Made in Germany for Lidl

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, E2

 

API SJ/CF4/CF.

 

Probably ok for 1990 Peugeot 1.8 diesel, I own?

In theory, should be ok for 1995 VR6, but I would only use it as a flushing oil.

[oilman 0]

It will work in the 306, but to be honest that is about as far as that oil goes. Dont expect it to look after anything.

 

Cheers

 

Guy.

[Rimshot 0]

Ahh. Then my car has been running on diesel oil for the last three months then. 15w/40. I'll thank my sister at a later date.

 

Will this have caused some damage?

[oilman 0]

No wont have done any damage, my comments on the post above referred to the incredibly cheap price of that 15w-40, at that prrice it is probably reclaimed oil.

 

Cheers

 

Guy.

[Rimshot 0]

yeah,i was told by my sister that the oil she was using was (and i quote) under a fiver for a bottle...

[was8v 0]

Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

 

 

I have a 5 litre batch of 15W/40 oil bought from Lidl supermarket for £3.99.

Made in Germany for Lidl

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, E2

 

No wont have done any damage, my comments on the post above referred to the incredibly cheap price of that 15w-40, at that prrice it is probably reclaimed oil.

 

The Lidl oil meets the ACEA spec that you say is better quality. The consumer reading the labels compares specs and gets a bargain. I know many Lidl "weekly specials" products are a loss leader to get you in the supermarket and buy your food at the same time.

 

How is "reclaimed" oil labelled- do they not have to say this? can reclaimed oil meet those "better quality" standards?

[oilman 0]

No they dont have to say its reclaimed.

 

However remember the specs are there to be passed and thats not that hard... just like cheap tyres pass all the same tests as expensive quality ones.

 

Cheers

 

Guy.

[Dee-Vub 0]

Whats the best oil to use in a VR6 mate?

[oilman 0]

Is the car standard or modified?

 

Cheers

 

Guy.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Based on my experiences of 3 different VR6 engines with differing states of tune, and standard, I recommend Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 if it's older than 70K miles and doesn't have a mocal oil cooler. Standard and Modded.

 

If it does have a cooler, 10W/40 Silkolene or Motul.

 

I've also found Cerratec engine additive prolongs chain tensioner life.

[paul20v 0]

Based on my experiences of 3 different VR6 engines with differing states of tune, and standard, I recommend Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 if it's older than 70K miles and doesn't have a mocal oil cooler. Standard and Modded.

 

If it does have a cooler, 10W/40 Silkolene or Motul.

 

I've also found Cerratec engine additive prolongs chain tensioner life.

ive been using fully synthetic castrol magnetex 10w/40 hows this ,no mocal cooler

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Can't really see the point of Magnatec tbh. You don't really need oil clinging to con rods or the block casing :-)

 

If it doesn't use loads of it, there's no reason to change really.

[paul20v 0]

Can't really see the point of Magnatec tbh. You don't really need oil clinging to con rods or the block casing :-)

 

If it doesn't use loads of it, there's no reason to change really.

this silkolene pro s 10w /50 is £34 for 5 litres its quite exspensive i will run it if you think its worth it i suppose the 50 helps with oil pressure with hot running ,

its cheaper than a new lump

[oilman 0]

It is worth the money, with oil you really do get what you pay for.

 

The Pro S 10w-50 is good for 8-10,000 miles, change it befor and you are throwing away good oil, much as I like to sell it to those that change at 3-6,000 it is not needed.

 

Cheers

 

Guy.