16V glowing manifold - turned out to be the cambelt pulley

[corradophil 3]

zacon, Firstly, make sure you are 100% certain the cams are timed correctly to the crank, the marks are there on the flywheel, on mine there is a small cast lug at 6 deg BTDC and a machined groove which looks like an arrow at TDC. As sciroccotune said the aux pulley drives the oil pump only, so that does not matter.

 

I take it the engine turns freely without any evidence of valves hitting pistons, turn it over by hand so you will hopefully feel any resistance.

 

Assuming that is all correct, and you have fuel and a spark, I would try adjusting the distributer position to change the ignition timing, this will need setting up anyway once it is running.

[mistrall 0]

rings bells lol , exactly the same as my problem (first link) timing and fueling was wey out no power and wouldnt drive lol - looked like a xmas tree under the bonnet :( , good luck man shouldnt be 2 hard .

[zacon 0]

Sorry for my late reply. Yesterday a friend came over, and he brought a plug key that fitted. We took out plug number one and put in a ratchet extension, then turned the crankshaft until the piston was at top. The flywheel mark was now visible! To my surprise, the crankshaft pulley mark was now far from aligned. So was the camshaft pulley, so we took off the belt and adjusted it so that both the camshaft pulley mark and the flywheel mark was aligned.

 

Then I tried to start the engine, and it fired up just fine! He also brought his timing light, so we adjusted the ignition timing too, which also was way off.

 

The engine was going really well then, it even ran better on low rpms, probably because we adjusted the ignition timing. I took it for a long drive, and slept over at some friends. No problems, except for a ticking noise coming from the engine bay sometimes.

 

Today, on my way home, the same symptoms as on the cinema night came. The acceleration was really bad on the highway, and the oil temperature was rising. I fortunately made it all the way home this time. The manifold wasn't quite glowing then, but it surely was much hotter than usual.

 

I haven't looked at it yet, but I guess I suspect the cambelt has slipped again. How the hell could that have happened? I'm really sure me and my friend tightened it properly.

 

Could all this be because the tensioner is worn? I've read about people having ticking noises that found out it was all because of the tensioner.

 

I've also noticed a considerable eccentricity(?) on the crank pulleys. Could that have anything to do with it?

[zacon 0]

I was trying to say that there's a wobble/judder in my crank pulleys. It's only at idle though.

[zacon 0]

This is looking really bad. I took off the crank bolt. It was far too easy to get out by the way.

 

I've attacted a picture of the crankshaft end, the pulley and the bolt. As you can probably see from them, the pulley can be turned freely on the crankshaft. I suppose the only thing that kept it from going round and round all the time was the bolt itself.

 

I suppose I first of all need to get a new pulley and bolt.

 

I found this topic where a guy named Crasher describes what I need to do with the crankshaft: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43032

I wish he were more detailed though. My case seems to be worse than the damage in the picture he posted.

 

What's all the red stuff by the way?

[zacon 0]

Could I just resurface it with a dremel? I don't get the idea really, would I have to shear it down to correspond to exactly one notch on the cambelt, so that the timing wouldn't be wrong? And doing so would not make the whole thing unbalanced?

 

I'd really like to avoid taking the crankshaft out.

[destructiv dave 0]

On the crankshaft pulley, there should be a little lug that locates into the cutout off the crank. The cutout doesn't look too damaged and should locate the pulley correctly (difficult to tell through just picture though).

 

I really don't think you will have to take the crank out to fix this, though use loctite and torque the new bolt with a new pulley and it should be OK.

[destructiv dave 0]

Oh, and change that crankshaft oil seal whilst your there.

[zacon 0]

I don't really know how the key in a new pulley looks like, but at least the cutoff in the crankshaft looks really far from what it should, don't you think?

[destructiv dave 0]

Flip over the pulley and show a picture of the mating face.

[zacon 0]

Here's a picture of the other side of the pulley. I have to admit I'm not so sure what a mating face is.

[davidwort 0]

Here's a picture of the other side of the pulley. I have to admit I'm not so sure what a mating face is.

 

right, same thing happened to mine, pulley bolt came loose and the vibration cause the same damage.

If you can make sure the round flat face of the end of the crank (mating face for the pulley) is a smooth surface (if corroded then that's when you might need the resurfacing tool) then you can just whack a new (or second hand) pulley on the crank. Just make sure you use a new (and correct part number) bolt. as long as the key lug fits the notch cut out on the crank it's the bolt torque that holds the pulley in place so it'll be fine. But as advised by crasher, be careful with loc-tite, it shouldn't really be used as it can squeeze out of the threads and affect the face to face mating surface of the pulley and crank end.

Mines been fixed for several thousand miles now and is fine, even with the loc-tite! I have marked the pulley and bolt with blobs of white paint though, just to see if the bolt ever turns, because I'm paranoid now!

 

David.

[zacon 0]

Oh, I get it now. I thought it was the cut out on the crank that needed to be resurfaced. I'm afraid the mating face isn't smooth though, there's been a wobble in the pulley since I bought the car :( I'll look at it when I get home from work.

 

I ordered a new pulley and bolt from the dealer, the pulley was 400 NOK = £35 .

[Crasher 3]

If the end of the crank looks like this picture, then the crank will need re-facing. This can be done in situ if you can find someone with the tool.

[zacon 0]

??

[davidwort 0]

??

 

I guess like the original thread on crank end resurfacing you mentioned.

 

35 quid! not as much as some VW pulleys are new, but there must be loads of these second hand kicking around, one off an old mk2 golf 16v would do, wouldn't pay more than a fiver for one me :)

 

David.

[Crasher 3]

Don't forgeet to use a new bolt and there is nothing wrong with a used pulley as long you check it closely. The tool leaves the surface looking like this.

[zacon 0]

Thanks for all your help, it's really appreciated.

 

My mating surface surely doesn't look as bad as the one in the picture you posted. although the cut off is worse. Maybe it will work out if I just wash it good and tighten the bolt really good. I'm a bit worried though, since I had the wobble before.

 

If you think £35 is bad, they wanted 700 kr (£60) for the tensioner! I guess I'll get a second hand one of those. Maybe the old one is fine though.

[davidwort 0]

Thanks for all your help, it's really appreciated.

 

My mating surface surely doesn't look as bad as the one in the picture you posted. although the cut off is worse. Maybe it will work out if I just wash it good and tighten the bolt really good. I'm a bit worried though, since I had the wobble before.

 

If you think £35 is bad, they wanted 700 kr (£60) for the tensioner! I guess I'll get a second hand one of those. Maybe the old one is fine though.

 

That's mad, I'm sure someone would send you a tensionner from the UK far cheaper, don't use a second hand one, GSF sell them for 18 quid, 22 including VAT (for EU countries) and you can enquire about postage etc.. here: mailto:[email protected]

If the tensionner is smooth and quiet running on it's bearings and has only a tiny amount of play it'll be OK, but as it's all off I'd replace both belt and tensionner.

 

David.

[Polo Classic 0]

Thanks for all your help, it's really appreciated.

 

My mating surface surely doesn't look as bad as the one in the picture you posted. although the cut off is worse. Maybe it will work out if I just wash it good and tighten the bolt really good. I'm a bit worried though, since I had the wobble before.

 

If you think £35 is bad, they wanted 700 kr (£60) for the tensioner! I guess I'll get a second hand one of those. Maybe the old one is fine though.

 

Du kan få det en god del billiger her da

 

http://www.krogslund.no/html/m62.htm#04

[zacon 0]

I got the new pulley and bolt today. I changed the oil seal too. Attached a picture of the new pulley next to the old one.

 

Now everything seems to be working as supposed :) The wobble in the pulleys are completely gone too. I'm really happy about that. I'm a little worried off the cut-off that was so damaged though.

 

Also, I didn't use loctite on the bolt. Should I, is it important? We have both red, blue and green loctite at work, but I forgot to bring some. I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough either, but I got someone to stand at the brakes while I gave it almost all I could.

 

Should I take it apart and put on loctite?

[Crasher 3]

The bolt should be new and lightly oiled.

[zacon 0]

The bolt should be new and lightly oiled.

 

So no loctite? I suppose it will be okay in that case.