akacheesy 0 Posted September 27, 2003 Anyone know when ya should change ya cambelt? 1993 VR6 110,000miles Had main dealer service at 61,000 & 102,000 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted September 27, 2003 the vr6 engine has no cam belt to change :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sham69 0 Posted September 27, 2003 its a cam chain on the VR's - they normally last forever. Apparently It wrks on a self tensioning mechanism to prolong their life, i.e. its slack at first start and gradually tigtens up which is why they are a little noisy in the mornings. I've got 136,000 on my VR, and my brother has 180,000 :shock: originals cam chains in tact Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akacheesy 0 Posted September 27, 2003 aha, thanks Thats a bonus!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted September 27, 2003 Actually I believe the cam chain tensioners are oil-pressure driven (or at least, the lower chain tensioners are). This way when the engine is ticking over and you have low oil pressure, the chain is slack, and when the engine is under load the chain is held tightly in place due to the higher oil pressure. Abuse of the engine with cold, thick oil will prematurely wear these things, the oil pressures can get VERY high when cold. But the general consensus on the cam chains is don't change them unless you're certain there's a problem, OR you're having that end of the engine (actually the gearbox) off for some other reason, in which case the extra parts + labour to do the chains isn't much. Apparently... :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradovr6sc 0 Posted October 3, 2003 The chain guides wear out which slackens the chain and throws the cam timing out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted October 4, 2003 Actually I believe the cam chain tensioners are oil-pressure driven (or at least, the lower chain tensioners are). This way when the engine is ticking over and you have low oil pressure, the chain is slack, and when the engine is under load the chain is held tightly in place due to the higher oil pressure. The top tensioner is oil pressure fed(the big bolt screwed in the back of your chain cover,easily changed 1min max) the lower one is a manual tensioner Top Chain Guides will wear out without you even knowing about it,as for chain slipping and knocking out a tooth ,must be well F**ked Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted October 4, 2003 Jeez, it must have taken you a while to get down to the point from which you could take that picture... My bad, I was under the impression the oil/spring tensioning was the other way around. Still, on the whole they're very reliable. (Says Matt crossing his fingers..) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted October 4, 2003 It was a pain,would not like to it again,head was off at same time 2 and was doing rings and shells so engine was held in with one mount :shock: The engine is so much more responsive and has a crackling sound to the intake noise Just Love it !!!!!!!!!! :twisted: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
