K&N 57i induction kit for my VR6 ??

[Guest]

It shouldnt have made that much difference, i'd check the simple things first like has everything been plugged back in properly. (Connection to the maf will make a big difference to performance.) I have even heard of maf's ending up facing the wrong way round during installation. (Think it was andyvr6's car was like that when he got it.)

 

If none of that helps refit the standard airbox and see if the performance returns.

 

I don't think you can plug the maf in wrong, as the plug only fits one way, still anything is possible. Although the MPG etc are all correct, so looks like its working.

 

Its at its MOT (retest) atm, so no doubt a large, red "F" will confirm it

 

 

I do agree with A16VVW though, the standard box does seem to have a more "refined" feel to it, If it doesn't improve, then i'll remove mine too. Seems weird, if this is what they are sposed to feel like, that anyone fits them, as it seems to be sapping my performance. I can only think that its running too lean cos of the increased air flow, and hopefully the ECU will sort it with time.

 

Thera

[CazzaVR 0]

Joe M,

 

Yeh, when I bought mine the maf wasn't fitted correctly. I think the actual pipe it's fitted into was fitted back to front :? Took 3 garages and a lot of money to work this out! :mad: AmD sorted it in about 5 minutes...

 

Can't understand the probs with the K & N- mine is running really sweet- smooth, quick acceleration, excellent throttle response and an absolutely awesome noise! :twisted:

 

Wouldn't mind another drive in a standard VR though, to see if there is any difference (apart from the noise!).

[Guest]

i'll have a look at it when I get it back from the MOT then (about 20 Mins) and have a look, but i'm sure its all fitted correctly.

 

Cheers,

 

Thera

[Guest]

futha muckers, I went in for the 4th time in 2 weeks to finally get my MOT sorted, after 2 retests, and the two BIG skinhead blokes just shook their heads, and rubbed their chins.

 

I asked if it was the emmisions, cos of the induction kit, and they just shook their heads, after 5 mins of this, and me getting more and more anxious, they started laughing, the b@stards were just winding me up :mad: :oops:

 

All passed, and the emmisions are actually slightly lower, although this is more likely due to the engine being colder the last time it was tested.

 

I'll now have to have a look at the MAS, and see if its round the wrong way.

 

cheers,

 

Thera

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yes the MAF wiring connector can only go on one way but the MAF itself can be reversed. There is a flow direction arrow on the connector housing, should point toward the windscreen, but if any doubt, look into the MAF and you'll see a thin wire and a temp sensor. The temp sensor end faces the air box, the wire end faces the driver.

 

As for power loss, it could either be a coincidental failure of some other sensor or the 57i is just sucking too much hot air off the engine.

 

Kev

[Guest]

cheers mate, i'll have a look at the arrow tomorrow, first thing :D

 

Thera

[vr6paul 0]

I'm at the forum rolling road day in Nov and will see then if my k and n is taking power off me but i must say i haven't noticed the loss like you are describing.

cheers

Paul

[Guest]

I didn't venture outside today, after the amount of drink I consumed on my birthday, so I'll check it tomorrow and let you know :)

 

Thera

[dan 0]

['H3R4POR]If anything I seem to have lost acceleration, all the way from 0-80, I know this is probably due to the ECU trying to work out whats going on, so I'm not too worried atm, hopefully it'll sort its self out :?:

 

When you're used to driving your VR with the standard air filter you get a feel for the noise & power levels of the engine. Thats why, when I fitted a Pipercross induction to mine I was very dissapointed :? . It felt like 'all show & no go' if you know what I mean. There was too much noise & if anything less power. I was embarrased to put the foot down when someone was in the car with me.

 

One week later I took it off & gave it to a m8 who had a Vento VR. Sometime later I bought a 'Jetex' panel filter from Awesome for £35. I have to say that I do like the sound of the engine now. Its just a little deeper than standard with no loss of power.

 

I suppose its just down to your own personal preferance...

 

2p

[Guest]

well, tbh, if i'd have wanted a loud car with no performance there are plenty of 1.1 Nova's near be, although caps have never suited me, I'm sure I could have been welcomed into their arms.

 

I agree with you, "all show and no go" is exactly what it feels like :(

 

Thera

[Guest]

No, i'm not an idiot, the MAS was on the right way, must just be the K & N's fault :(

 

Thera

[VR6 0]

It'll be all that hot engine air it's now sucking in.

[pringles 0]

just fitted mine and itrs going sweet as a nut.

 

WHAT a noise it makes!

 

Takes ages to sort the cold air pipe so its in the airstream :(

[Guest]

it goes run better when the engines cold, but you can't put ya foot down until the oil heats up, so its swings and roundabouts atm.

 

The cold air pipe was a pain, I'm gonna get some longer/bigger tubing, and some better brackets to secure it I think, cable ties won't do

 

I've also spoken to a bloke at work about making me a heat shield, I know this has been done on C's before on this forum, does anyone have any pic or better still a template?

 

Cheers,

 

Thera

[coullstar 0]

Just drill your airbox on the wing side if you are going for a nice subtle noise. I found that an induction kit also made the car feel a bit worse. It was like a switch as well i.e. as soon as you are off the throttle there was no noise.

I drilled the airbox on my VR and it gave it a nice note without being in your face.

[pimp 0]

I'd be interested in a heat shield as well. I think one exists for the G60 induction. Not sure if it can be used for the VR though.

 

Any know if this is the case??

[FastlaneVR6 0]

I am reading a couple of assumptions on the effects of a K&N filter and intake of hot air. Before giving my experience on that I'd like to briefly introduce myself because this is my first post on this forum (thanks for the hospitality) and do not want to seem to be some kind of wise guy.

 

I've had my VR6 for 3 years now and have been actively busy in upgrading it as a drivers car. No, you won't find the Rieger, Luma and RS tupperware stuff on my C. I am also a regular poster on the Dutch Corrado forum under this nick and like to share experiences.

 

Now about the K&N. Mine was installed together with other mods like camshafts, flowed airintake, strengthened gearbox. All of this topped of with a chip focussing on torque in the midrev area. 220 hp and 285 Nm on the Dyno and it drives pretty OK :D .

 

IMHO the main contribution of the K&N is the sound when going up in revs :) and it is only supportive in improving the airflow.

 

Now about the intake of heated air. I'll save you the long discussions and calculations before I decided to just plainly measure the air temperature at the intake point and compare it with the outside air temperature on the MFA. And believe it or not it appeared that the difference in air temperature is neglictable. While standing still (with the engine is off) the MFA temp is about 1 Celsius lower compared to the temp at the K&N, while driving this becomes 2 Celsius. This has been measured on local roads, on the motorway and even on the steepest uphill part of the German Nordschleife.

 

The temperature only significantly goes up while standing still, and this is a familiar issue to everyone who regulary checks the MFA. So, again IMHO, a heatshield only makes sense if you make a serious job at sprints or are concerned you can't beat CRX's at traffic lights.

 

My 2p's.

[CazzaVR 0]

Interesting stuff!

 

Welcome to the forum by the way :D

 

Best option for cold air is probably a vent in the wing.... 8) I'd love one, but it's not a cheap option :(

 

Would like to give a heatshield a go though- anyone got any more info?

[dazzyvr6 0]

theres a file on the corrado e groups site,ive got all the instructions here but i dont think they would like me to scan them and post them up on here

[Guest]

welcome aboard FastlaneVR6 :)

 

I would have thought that the air temp was WAY higher than what you've said?

 

I know the main problem is when you are stationary, and this isn't a real concern, I'm trying to find a way to solve my problem :(

 

Thera

 

ps, dazzyvr6 - mailto:[email protected] ;)

[FastlaneVR6 0]

['H3R4POR]welcome aboard FastlaneVR6 :)

 

I would have thought that the air temp was WAY higher than what you've said?

 

I know the main problem is when you are stationary, and this isn't a real concern, I'm trying to find a way to solve my problem :(

 

Thera

 

ps, dazzyvr6 - mailto:[email protected] ;)

 

I had that thought initially as well. I calculation however learned that at 120 kmh ~ 75 mph the airvolume on the right side of the engine has to be refreshed 5 times per second in order to have enough air in the cilinders. No way that the outside air can be heated in that timeframe. It also learns that the key thing here is to get an unrestricted flow of air to the filter.

 

Personnaly I do not believe that tubes the front help much, this would only work if they have a very large bore.

 

Also a pic of my C, just after the recent repaint job. The 16" Speedline's will soon be replaced by 17" whatever rims in order to fit a Big Brake AP Racing set :)

[dan 0]

Hi FastlaneVR6, welcome to the forum :)

 

Your car looks very well, do you have it lowered?

[FastlaneVR6 0]

Hi FastlaneVR6, welcome to the forum :)

 

Your car looks very well, do you have it lowered?

 

Thanks dan!

 

It is not lowered (yet). WHat I really want is the ability to switch between a road and a track set-up. The road set-up would be very close to standard. Main reason for that is the enormous amount of speedbumps on the roads here, don't want to replace my front spoiler every week.

 

The circuit set up would not only be lower but also with very stiff damping and adjustable camber. It must also possible to switch between the setups in limited time and without the need to re-align.

 

But the AP brake kit has priority.

 

Sorry for being OT'ish btw.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I disagree about the inlet temps.

 

The enormous heat soak the VR6 suffers can only lead to very high inlet temps. Indeed if you hook up to VAG-COM you can get a live inlet temp figure and it's way above ambient temperature.

 

Obviously NA engines suck in the air they require, rather like human lungs. And when the bonnet is closed, the air it will draw in will be from around the engine.

If the air filter is in the wing cavity, it can only suck in cold air and nothing else.

 

I used to run water/methanol injection on 16V Turbo and prior to it's fitment, the intercooled air was regularly at 40- 50 deg C. With the H20 injection, it fell to 15-20 deg C on a hot summers day and less on a winters day.

 

Just my tuppence worth

 

Kev

[FastlaneVR6 0]

Kev,

 

First of all: the temps I mentioned in my first post are measured temps in a wide variety of circumstances. And the sensor measuring the temps is mounted right on top of the K&N. You might question the accuracy of the sensor, yet with an open bonnet and the engine off it shows an offset of 1 Celsius compared with the MFA reading. As mentioned in my post.

 

Second: your example is about a charged engine and you mention a reading of "intercooled air". I assume the temp was read after the turbo. If so, you can't compare that reading with a reading at the air intake of a free breathing engine.

 

Third: I am very interested in the VAG-COM hook up. I am might be wrong after all despite all tries to get the real figures.

 

Fourth: The VR6 indeed easily gets very hot if pushed. On the Nordschleife I got a reading of 152 Celsius prior to the mount of an oilcooler. And that resolved most if not all of my VR6 heat problems. The oilcooler reduces oiltemp by about 20 Celsius in the normal operating range and between 25-30 C on the track.

 

Fifth: you are extremely welcome to come over here and check the stats. It is not that far, this summer it took me just 4 hours on the wheel from Southampton to the Netherlands. It was just those Eurotunnel cashcollectors that bothered me.

 

Another 2 pennies.