saysomestuff 0 Posted December 7, 2006 can you start the engine, disconnect the alt and put the multimeter in series with that? Dunno if that's a bit dangerous but then at least you'd know how much work the alt is doing in the equation... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 7, 2006 A 90 amp alternator? You've got to be very sure about what you're doing there ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighands 0 Posted December 7, 2006 ha ha, yea i thought that, its only a 10amp multi meter so think i would have a lump of smoking melted plastic in my hands LOL But there is some logic, that surely the altenator could of handled that drain and charged as well, but saying that the voltage has gone up to 14.2-3 volts now unloaded! Might just have to see if it flattens its self now on, and if it does see if i can get hold of a 100amp meter!!?? But on the same note, surely everything that would be powered, with the engine running, would be powered with the ignition and immob on, would beno need to see the drain with the engine running? getting there . . Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanVW 0 Posted December 8, 2006 Hey Andy, Great work mate! :-) getting closer all the time, worth checking if that fuse runs anything else but if not then its time for the fun part, you need to follow the wiring from either the fuse box or the rear demister itself to find that short! P.s I dont think there is anything wrong with your altenator but an easy way to prove it would be to pull that fuse and drive it ;-) all the best Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kongo127 0 Posted December 9, 2006 I have the VR6 voltmeter and oil pressure pod on my car. When i turn on the defrost switch for the rear window and mirrors, there is a massive voltage drop on the dial. With the car running and all electrics on i get 12v (60Amp alternator), have in mind that the voltmeter supply is connected to the cigarette lighter... I´ll route it correctly directly to the battery one of these days to get more efficient/correct readings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
exturbo2003 0 Posted December 10, 2006 right you need a proper amp meter to check what the alternator is putting out. basically you need to check the live cable out to all the electrics then check the alternator wire in and make sure you have more coming in then out. just sounds like the alternator isnt pushing out amps. common prob on all cars plenty volts but no amps. in high wycombe if you want a trip up and i can check for you if you dont have access to a proper amp clamp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted December 10, 2006 My VR's core systems tug 3.5 amps from the battery when engine running, all accessories off. Takes 14.6 amps with all car related accessories on (heater, fogs, main beams etc), stereo off, engine running.....just as a rough idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighands 0 Posted December 15, 2006 Sorry been away for a while! Exturbo, cheers for the offer but im hoping this is the end of this problem :-) Kev. 14.6 wast too far off what i was getting with the rear heater switch connected!! Sounds like maybe there was a fault in the circuit i will have to get a switch i no is working OK and see if its still there! But im fairly sure the alternator wouldnt be kicking up 90amps or anywhere close on tickover, and at the moment thats really all its been doing as still running everything in and its not taxed mot'd ect so cant go far till the new year! Now time to sort the stuck brake caliper and noisey 3rd gear it seems to of developed that i found out in a slightly illegal drive up my road last night!! Cheers, Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
