Jump to content
Jim Bowen

Electric window doesn't close properly

Recommended Posts

the passenger window in my corrado stopped closing probably lastnight

 

gets most of the way but it leaves a 1cm gap at the top, its doesn't seem lined up properly,

 

i.e: it moves out from the car as it goes up and doesn't seem to be in the runner properly, so i have to get out and push on the window from outside to get it to sit flush, then it will close.

 

do you think something needs replacing? or just adjusting?

 

i not got a clue how to take it all apart, didn't really wanna mess around with the interior too much :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sounds like its new regulator time I'm afraid to say....../quote]

 

Hi

 

What does the regulator look like ?

 

Does anybody have a picture.

 

Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sounds like its new regulator time I'm afraid to say......

 

Hi

 

What does the regulator look like ?

 

Does anybody have a picture.

 

Cheers.

 

 

t_dcam0144_142.jpg

 

pic courtesy of cata............anyway if you look at the uncarded door the bits of aluminium that are peeking thru the holes(the bit that looks like meccano and the long bar at the bottom) thats part of the regulator,it also comes with the motor so costs £200++ :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't mind mate - need to get rid of most of it and only keep the bits that have yet to break on my black car as spares (and thats not too many)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You not put an advert up in the Parts for Sale saying youre splitting one??

 

Thatll speed the job up for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

God no! I would be bombarded with pm's and my little brain can't handle it mate. Slowly but surely is more me (except in a car) :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are making sense.

 

Mate, if you advertise and get Pm's its because people wanto to give you money, thats a good thing!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my passenger window has also stopped working, about a fortnight ago. got a regulator and motor off ebay for £20 delivered. gonna try and sort it over the weekend, never done it before so should be a laugh.

i will do a search to see if there is an idiots guide :D

unless anyone has any tips ? :? :lol:

cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My W"indow has stopped working altogether and is currently taped up. from prodding it and listening to it it sounds like the motor has chewed some teeth off or the control cable is knackered.... The bloody window falls down now! :(

 

I can only assume I need a new regulator mech, and motor, would that be about right?

 

Luckily I have a spare.... But I'm not keen on trying to fit it at the moment, has anyone done this? And does anyone have a timescale?

 

I've looked at my bently and theres lots of rivet drilling action going on :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I've decided to get on and change the regulators over, but does anyone know what size rivets you need?

 

The Bently says you need part number somethingysomething but as I've got plenty of pop rivets lying around I'd prefer to use them.

 

I've not taken the old one out yet so I've not actually seen what they're like. but is the size **that** critical?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ok I've decided to get on and change the regulators over, but does anyone know what size rivets you need?

 

The Bently says you need part number somethingysomething but as I've got plenty of pop rivets lying around I'd prefer to use them.

 

I've not taken the old one out yet so I've not actually seen what they're like. but is the size **that** critical?

 

Prepare for some knuckle scraping, it's a horrible job.

 

All I can remember is that the rivets are big ones, I don't think the size has to be perfect either.

 

My biggest problem was drilling out the old rivets from the s/hand unit I put in the car, bits of the rivets pushed through into the rubber mounting. :x

 

I'm sure there's some more posts on this hidden away somewhere, not searched for them myself though.

 

thinking about it a bit more, you need to drop the window a bit to undo the bolts holding the glass into the regulator, holes in the internal door skin to reach these, then tape the glass up with duck tape or similar.

 

The ball shaped ends of the lifting arms pop out of the plastic wheels to remove from the runner.

 

then there's the drilling out of the 3 motor rivets and the ones in the centre of the door holding the central support of the reg. the reg sort of hooks onto the inner door skin too so won't just fall down with the last rivet removed.

 

David.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Prepare for some knuckle scraping, it's a horrible job.

 

All I can remember is that the rivets are big ones, I don't think the size has to be perfect either.

 

My biggest problem was drilling out the old rivets from the s/hand unit I put in the car, bits of the rivets pushed through into the rubber mounting. :x

 

I'm sure there's some more posts on this hidden away somewhere, not searched for them myself though.

 

thinking about it a bit more, you need to drop the window a bit to undo the bolts holding the glass into the regulator, holes in the internal door skin to reach these, then tape the glass up with duck tape or similar.

 

The ball shaped ends of the lifting arms pop out of the plastic wheels to remove from the runner.

 

then there's the drilling out of the 3 motor rivets and the ones in the centre of the door holding the central support of the reg. the reg sort of hooks onto the inner door skin too so won't just fall down with the last rivet removed.

 

David.

 

Great! Cheers David, that was the kind of info I was after...

 

Hopefully I'll be able to play with the spare one for a bit. it seems that this won't be the first repair on the door as the motor is bolted rather than riveted in...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
All I can remember is that the rivets are big ones, I don't think the size has to be perfect either.

 

Yep- I did this on a mates Seat- the rivets were too big for any of the three riveters I had lying around- might be worth making sure you have the right rivets and a BIG riveter before you start :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

right i've now taken the doorcard off and i couldn't fix or tighten anything, everything is well tucked away :(

 

to me, its as if the cables are lose/slack so window thinks the top is lower down?

 

will i need to replace the whole lot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yip......you'll need the regulator.............which from VW comes with the motor,so big bucks,or you could source a second hand one

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think i have to do this job now, i can't live with it

 

anyone know a proper size for the rivets rather than "big ones" :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this is useful

 

"Many Corrados have a problem with the passenger side window not closing all the way. This is because a plastic tab that keeps the cable in place breaks off. It tends to only happen on the passenger side because the tab is facing the other way on the drivers side. VW says there is no way to fix it, and since it is all one piece( motor, cable , tab, etc) it costs $500. There is a way to fix it however.

 

First the inside of the door needs to be removed. There are 3 screws covered by plastic tabs on the sides and a screw behind the speaker grill. There are 2 more scres in the door handle(this can be removed by simply pulling it apart) There are also some tabs at the bottom which need to be undone. With the inside of the door gone, there are two plastic moldings(these are located where the glass goes into the door) which need to be removed. They simply slide of the metal rail of the door. The reason the window won't close all the way is because with the tab broken the cable gets pulled down instead of the window going up all the way. The way to fix it is to find a way to keep the cable from being pulled down. There are probably other ways to do it, but this is what I did. I made a double sided hook(hook on both ends) out of a piece of metal wire about twice as thick as a coat hanger. It needs to be strong enough so thatpliers are required to bend it. It needs to be about an inch long or so, but you will have to play with it a couple of times to get the right length. What you do is hook one end around the cable, and the other end around the metal rail the moldings sit/rests on. This needs to be as tight as possible , or the cable will still get pulled down some. It will probably take a few times before you get the right length, but it does work, trust me. Test it out by closing the window a few times before you put everything back together.

 

Some cars might need more than one hook. Next, to get the moldings to fit on with the hook there, you need to cutor burn a small slit into the lower molding. Don't worry, this is the lower of the two moldings and is completely covered up, so you can't see it. Then put the top molding on and put the inside of the door back on and you're done."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...