underbody sealing

[Loud VR6 0]

for a while now i wanted to underbody seal my corrado as in places the factory seal is comming off and the last thing i want is rust getting in ...

i am not sure how and if i should remove the factory seal or just wire brush off the loose bits and apply new seal on top .. its going to be a nasty job but i have been putting it off for a while now ...

 

has any body done this and what did you use ??

[cata 0]

Thinking about this in the near future as well.

Should be interesting to see how people did it.

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

I'm looking at doing this soon, so will post something up here when I do. My mate (who knows more than me!) says it's better to do it when it's a bit warmer. Can't remember why...

[diggerbucket 0]

Probably because it's got to be absolutely bone dry before you do anything with it, no point sealing any moisture in!

[craigowl 0]

In warm weather, all the waxy or tarry fluids flow easier, both out of the dispensing/spraying container and on the cars surfaces.

In the inside cavities like doors, the waxoyl, or similar will creep over every bit of metal it is in contact with. The warmer the better, I would say.

Protect your floor and drive from excess runoff, though.

[Guest]

I was also thinking of getting this done this summer, when h weather warms up, after Nige got me all paranoid in the winter :oops:

[Supercharged 2]

The VW stuff is very good and dries hard but you need air...

[craigowl 0]

You young fellas have it easy! :wink:

Our first new cars had no underseal or wheel arch inserts.

Result? - You had to do it yourself or pay the garage to do it before delivery.

You can imagine how much care some of the stealers will have taken to do this!

 

Wheel arch inserts were more difficult. I made my own on about 3 cars.

I did this after noticing that you could scoop several huge handfuls of, presumably, salt-laden mud from forward of the wheel - up around the headlight. It was common to see cars with a brown ring of rust coming through around the headlight. Also, you could stick your finger through the paintwork on top of the wheel arch if you noticed a bubble in the paint. This, for example in our 3-YEAR OLD Austin 1100. The sill also collapsed on jacking up the car at that age as water and mud filled sills and drain holes became blocked.

Now you know why people went off British cars and Fiats, etc. and why reasonably well off people (not us) bought a brand new car every two years.

No pre-reg bargains in those days either.

 

Rant over!

[Guest]

You young fellas have it easy! :wink:

Our first new cars had no underseal or wheel arch inserts.

 

calm down old timer ;)

[delfinis38 1]

I've just rewaxed my rear arches. they have come up really well.

 

bit of a mare getting the muck out. but I have nice blue arches now.

 

Will start the underside soon

[VR6 South 0]

If you use waxoyl, apply it on a hot day and stand the container in very hot water for about 20 minutes beforehand. It will then be a cinch to apply with a pump type spray. It will also get into all the nooks and crannies! Don't forget to wash the crap of the car before application.

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

Liking the rims on that Model T Therapor! Any chance we could organise a group buy and bring the price down?! Might get some of those headlamps as well...

[VR6 South 0]

Liking the rims on that Model T Therapor! Any chance we could organise a group buy and bring the price down?! Might get some of those headlamps as well...

 

Don't forget the candle upgrade for the headlights :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Use Greystripe from Halfords. It's the proper rubberised thick coating OEs use to paint the floor with.