Car doesn't want to start!! 2.0 16v - Sorted??

[nocrap 0]

Hi all, a right pain in the arse this one is!

 

First day of work after the christmas hols, car started on drive fine and drove very well for about 10 mins (i even commented to myself on how good it was driving! bad move!!).

 

Got to a set of traffic lights and had to stop, luckily about 3 cars back, looked at my dash to see the battery light flashing then the oil light flashing then the engine stopped, just cut out with no stutter, jolts or anything and thats how it has stayed ever since.

 

The starter motor turns but the engine makes no attempt to start.

 

I have fuel, air and electricity ruling out a few problems including the imob.

 

Since being towed home there is now a whistling/screming noise coming from around the metering head but the problem now is that the battery is very low on juice which might be the cause of that!

 

Sorry for the rambling probably incoherant wording of this post but i have just got back in after waiting an hour for the AA chap and have been staring into my engine bay for a further half hour and its bloody cold and wet.

[nocrap 0]

Right, cam belt is still there and has high tension (as do i!).

Battery now on charge for when i return, time to go to work!

[Goldie 2]

Had the same problem yesterday with my Dads midget (MG).

 

Try turning it over while its still on the charger. That did the trick for us yesterday..

[Supercharged 2]

I'm buying you a fuel filter on my way home - anything else you want?

 

Is the rotor arm in good nick?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

One of my old Golf 16Vs did that and whacking the ISV with a hammer sorted it!

[Supercharged 2]

Right, just phoned em and GSF don't do a fuel filter for a late 16v so VW it is.... the only problem is it may cost over 20 grand as I have a real urge to buy a MKV GTI at the moment...

[nocrap 0]

Supercharged, probably worth getting the arm as well. many many thanks for your assistance as always.

 

Kev, Wasn't that you attempt of a cure to Steve's G60?? although i seem to remember it being a huge breaker bar that you were whacking it with :lol:

 

Goldie, will try that after work

[Supercharged 2]

No worries - Dizzy needs to come off to change the arm really so we can test the Hall effect sender at the same time...

[Jim 2]

Eh? Dizzy doesn't have to come off.. the rotor arm will probably just be glued on so you need to just get some big molegrips on it to crack it off and then just pop the new one one on...

[Supercharged 2]

Your likely to knacker the dizzy doing that tho - best to stick it in a vice...

[Jim 2]

Ah fair enough. Mine now sounds like the bodge-it way, but it is the way I was told to do it.. hehe :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Jim bob's right...

 

Only the factory fit rotor arms are glued on. Service replacements aren't.

 

It's only brittle bakelite and that and the resin fall off easily with no damage to the dizzy.

 

It was just VW being cautious as a couple of arms flew off at 7000rpm in the early days.

 

Nocrap, yeah it was me whacking Steve's G60 with a breaker bar.....and it hasn't run since, LOL!

[davidwort 0]

Your likely to knacker the dizzy doing that tho - best to stick it in a vice...

 

just crushing it with a pair of mole grips worked fine for me, no need to remove and then reset the timing. Can't see how that could damage the dizzy, I just crushed it, didn't swing from it or anything

[Jim 2]

Yeah - you can't be too violent with it obviously but provided you get an easy clean break on it, it should be ok...

[mattnorgrove 0]

Swapped my rotor arm a while ago, my old one wiggled off with a bit of persuasion (oo-er)

[nocrap 0]

OK but anyway.....cheers for all those suggestions, there shouldn't be a problem with the rotor arm on mine as when the AA chappy tested each lead it gave a very bright light on the tester, but its worth changing it anyway.

 

hall sender is certainly worth a look at, but all appears to be happy up at that end, my suspicions lie highly with the metering unit......

[CazzaVR 0]

Exact same thing happened to my G60 when the hall sender went. Was driving along, and everything just went off, steering went heavy etc without any warning.

 

Don't try and prise the rotor arm off, as this will dent the dizzy.

[nocrap 0]

Well, just got back and rolled it into the garage...

 

The battery is now at full charge and that screamy winey noise is still coming from somwhere around the metering head, interestingly engough only when the imob is disabled, possibly indicating bunged up fuel system??

 

Also the starter motor wont do anything, please tell me that this is ok and all part of some fancy safety system :(

[nocrap 0]

Just found that i have no fuel pressure! Pump appears to be going which gives us suspect C, the fuel filter! hopefully!

[Jim 2]

I er.. thought the guy from the AA said that you had fuel pressure?

[nocrap 0]

:lol: yes well this was only tested by undoing the return banjo on the meter and fuel squirted out all over the place, went and did the same thing befor and nothing but a trickle.

[Goldie 2]

Fingers crossed for the filter then.

 

I paid a tenner for a dealer supplied one, nice easy job...

[nocrap 0]

shhhh you know you shouldn't say things like that! Corrado's hear everything......

[Goldie 2]

shhhh you know you shouldn't say things like that! Corrado's hear everything......

 

Sorry, youre right, they bloody do as well!!

[CazzaVR 0]

If it is the fuel filter, heat up the ends of the nylon fuel lines gently with a hairdryer to help with removal, and especially for refitting them.