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Kevin Bacon

Ignition switch replacement

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The information from this thread has now been compiled into a Wiki article, so I have locked and un-stickied this thread.

 

==================

 

 

To get the ignition barrel out of a VR, do you have to drill a hole in an exact location in the housing like the MK2 Golf and release a clip?

 

Anyone have the measurements if you do?

 

Cheers

Kev

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I wouldn't bother.

Mine was replaced less than 2 years ago and has gone again already.

 

Install a push-button start. Cost £1.49 plus some wires.

 

Assuming you can still get ignition, but can't get to 'Start' on the barrell...

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Im thinking of doing the same thing as my ignistion switch seems as though it may be on its last legs

 

rock on The Starter Button!!!

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Kevhaywire. Why do you need to take the ignition barrel out? If you only need to change the ignition switch, you don't need to take the barrel out. The only time you need to do that is if you are changing the lock/key part of the switch (for example if the only key had been lost, or something was snapped off inside the key hole)

 

If you need instructions on how to change the switch, post here asking and I'll reply with a step by step guide on how to do it... 8)

 

If you DO actually need to take the barrel out, then, yes, it's the same idea as the golf's ones, but I have no idea as to where to drill... :?

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Henny Yeah I just need to replace the actual switch part, not the barrel. On the Golf, the switch is at the bottom of the barrel and the only way to get the switch out is to remove the barrel. You had to drill a 3mm hole in the lock housing at a very specific location and then poke a small screwdriver through the hole to release the security clip.

 

If this is not the case with the VR6, then great! Even easier then :lol:

 

Details would be great, thanks!

 

Kev

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Right then, here you go...

 

I've not done this on a VR before, but I assume it's the same as on a late G60 and 1.8 16V, if not, then I'm sorry to waste any of your time... Ask at your stealer's if the switch is the same, if it is, then the fitting should also be the same.

 

1 ) take out the driver's side seat (one bolt at the front of the runner and a plastic cover at the back of the runners) so that you can lie down in the footwell.

2 ) remove the driver's side under dash

3 ) remove the bottom of the steering cowl.

4 ) unclip all of the multiplug wiring around the steering column. (just helps with visability!)

5 ) place a large cushion over the center seat mount and lie down with your head resting on the brake peddle. With a torch you should be able to see up behind the switch. To the column side of the switch is a small, brass, crosshead screw. You need a thin handled cross head screwdriver to get at this... I used a watchmaker's screwdriver that I bent slightly to get in to the screw. It's quite fiddly, but persevere and you'll get it.

6 ) with the screw out, the switch should just pull out towards the peddles.

7 ) insert new switch and put the screw back in. You'll have noticed that the original screw wasn't mega tight, so it doesn't have to go back in that tightly either!

8 ) remove youself from the footwell (easier said than done by this stage... Glad I told you about the cushion yet?!? :lol: ) and re-connect the multiplugs to the switchgear. Test the switches NOW, before you put everything else back together!

9 ) replace the lower steering cowl and underdash

10 ) replace the seat ensuring that all 3 runners are in the channels properly and that you've replaced the bolt and rear cover.

 

DONE... :D

 

Easy huh? Like I say, it's a bit fiddly, but there's no major engineering qualifications needed or anything daft like that. anyone who can lie down, use both hands at the same time and use a screw driver should be able to do this in about an hour. 8)

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Cheers mate, that's a most excellent guide :lol:

 

Totall different from the Golf then :?

 

I shall set about that this weekend - if it's warm enough!

 

Kev

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that does sound a lot easier than the way i did it,practically had to disslocate my fingers to get that bloody screw out :mad:

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VAG main dealer... 8) They're only about £15 over here... I'm sure your local VW dealer in the states will have 'em in stock too as they're used on most VWs and fail quite regularly... :roll:

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I've got a similar prob on my VR6 but I'm pretty sure its the barrel. Can take 15mins to start the car as I have to keep taking the key out and putting it back in. V. Annoying...

 

Phoned my local VAG dealer to find out how much the latest donation would be and they said £38 or £78 depending on the age of the car. Once I'd been recusitated I phoned the German Swedish and French car parts and they said "Yes sir, that would be £8.25...". http://www.gsfcarparts.com Amazing...

 

 

Anyway, all I have to do is locate the exact place to drill a hole. Anyone have an electronic copy of a workshop manual??

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TheStig, When you put the key in, will it turn every time?

 

If it turns (and dis-engages the steering lock) then the key part of the barrel is fine, it's the switch that is at fault... :wink:

 

If it's physically won't turn, or doesn't disable the steering lock, then, yeah, it's the barrel that's at fault... :?

 

The only time that you'll need to change the barrel is if your key won't turn in the lock or take the steering lock off. Just about all other ignition switch problems are down to the switch itself... 8)

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The key won't turn at all !!!! Tried lubricating it but no joy. :cry:

 

Ah, in that case, yup, you need a new lock mech... :?

 

If I were you, I'd also change the switch while you're in there as it's only another £20 and will almost certainly start to play up at some point soon! :roll:

 

Stevemac has just changed the lock and housing on his 'rado... there's a thread containing all of the part numbers required HERE 8) and I'm sure if you PM him, he'll be able to tell you how to change it over... 8)

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Having a problem with my C (1991 1800 16 valver) - what started as an intermittent starting problem now means the car wont start - hav to bump start it! Battery is fine and get usual fuel pump noise when turning the key - but nothing...

 

Is this the same problem as described at top of the post and if so which part do i need to buy? part number? cheaper from http://www.gsfcarparts.com?

 

Cheers...

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Looking at http://www.gsfcarparts.com i found an Ignition Starter Switch for £9.

 

Part Number Description Fitment Price(£) Quantity

 

92808 IGNITION STARTER SWITCH CO All 9.00 1

 

I think this is the correct one for my Rado since it fits all them :lol:

 

Can anyone confirm this before i order? :wink:

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Cheers mate, that's a most excellent guide :lol:

 

Totall different from the Golf then :?

 

I shall set about that this weekend - if it's warm enough!

 

Kev

 

Five Stars Henny! 8)

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TheStig,

 

Correct proceedure -

 

1. Remove steering wheel.

2. Remove both lower & upper steering column cowls.

3. Remove both stalk switches.

4. Break old steering lock housing apart (will not come away from steering column in 1 piece) - use "grips" on top & left side of lock housing. Softish alloy & should break off quite easily.

5. Turn electrical switch to 1st position, attach & screw to back of new lock housing.

6. Fit new lock housing to steering column.

7. Turn key in new lock cylinder to first position & line up with slot in electrical switch.

8. Slide new lock cylinder into new steering lock housing.

9. Re-assemble stalk switches, cowls & steering wheel.

 

There is no requirement for drilling the old lock cylinder - it will come away from the car still attached to the mashed-up lock housing.

 

Took me 15 minutes from start to finish. 8)

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Is this the same procedure as for a 1994 VR does anyone know? I'm due to get my ignition switch replaced by a local garage and he says that it will either be a 30 min job or a 2 hour job depending on the type of switch/layout in my car. I'm just trying to work out if this sounds reasonable.

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Sounds like your mechanic's a robbing bar-steward - Bentley manual says it's exactly the same proceedure !!

 

15 mins was no exaggeration - I timed myself from entering the workshop to driving away !! (a shade under 16 mins to be precise)

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Thanks for that stevemac

 

I've got the bentley here but can't seem to find the procedure in here. I was looking under section 28.x and 27.x but couldn't see it, unless they refer to the ignition switch under a different name?

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