Concept-e 0 Posted March 16, 2007 Hi all, cooling issues seem to be the topic of the moment! Was wondering how easy it is to remove a thermostat on a 1.8 16v KR engine, i need to do it today and have minimal tools. What would i have to do?? Cheers Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattnorgrove 0 Posted March 16, 2007 AFAIK, the PAS pump has to be removed, had mine changed a while back, pretty sure it involved this, which to me wasnt a prob, as i was having the PAS pump swapped out anyway. Can anyone confirm this?? (as i might be talkin cack) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted March 16, 2007 AFAIK, the PAS pump has to be removed, had mine changed a while back, pretty sure it involved this, which to me wasnt a prob, as i was having the PAS pump swapped out anyway. Can anyone confirm this?? (as i might be talkin cack) yep, you need to remove the alloy bracket on the engine block that the pump mounts to, as it's over the bolts for the stat housing, fiddly and time consuming but not too bad. Worst bit is getting at the two 13mm bolts hidden inside the bracket that need slackening to move the pump and take the drive belt off. You need to slacken everything apart from the bolts that hold the pump body to the flat steel bracket it pivots on, oh, and remove the adjustment/belt tensionning bolt altogether it just gets in the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattnorgrove 0 Posted March 16, 2007 Thought so... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Concept-e 0 Posted March 16, 2007 ok cheers guys. Anyone got a decent diagram of this? I mean perhaps an EKTA exploded one or something. The Haynes is crap, as the one i have has 2 pages for the 16v. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Concept-e 0 Posted March 17, 2007 this is ridiculous, just doing the job atm.... there is no movement in that bracket at all. I have removed all the bolts, excluding the bolt that goes across the width of the alternator (looks like a b**** to get back in). How exactly do i remove that silver bracket to get access to the plastic tube the stat is in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted March 17, 2007 this is ridiculous, just doing the job atm.... there is no movement in that bracket at all. I have removed all the bolts, excluding the bolt that goes across the width of the alternator (looks like a b**** to get back in). How exactly do i remove that silver bracket to get access to the plastic tube the stat is in? not sure if you've sorted this yet, but the sequence I do this is: 1) slacken nut on long bolt that mounts the pump bracket to the alternator bracket (one that's about 15cm long) 2) slacken the two 13mm bolts inside the alloy bracket that mounts to the front of the engine block, plus one easily visible at the front, these all go into pump body from gearbox end of bay towards pump 3) remove belt tensionning bolt , T shaped think with two 13mm nuts, one on front one of side 4) pump should now swing back so crank and pump pulley touch, now remove belt 5) swing pump forward again remove two 13mm bolts from inside that front alloy bracket on engine block 6) remove nut/bolt from alternator bracket (the long one) and pump will be free (still has long narrow flat steel bracket bolted to it), rest it on the front cross member on a rag or something. 7) get underneath and remove the two long bolts that go straight up inside the front alloy bracket into the engine block, with these bolts out the bracket comes off and you have access to the thermostat housing, got a feeling there's a third bolt to this bracket too 8) thermostat housing/flange has rad hose connected to it and 2 10mm bolts, with the engine off the stat will shut so a fair bit of water is trapped in the engine even when you pull the bottom rad hose off. This will piddle out when you unbolt the housing. Always fit a new rubber o ring to the housing, but these can be a fiddle to hold in place whilst holding new thermostat up and also attempting to put water flange back on, you need at least 3 hands :lol: Much easier to do with a new pump off the car and upside down. Don't over tighten these little bolts, they'll stop turning when the seal is compressed and the ridge on the plastic flange is up tight against the water pump. hope I haven't missed anything oh, refitting is reverse of removal :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted March 18, 2007 Super stuff Mr Wort! I have a feeling I'm going to have to do this in the not so distant future..... Is there any chance that this could go into the Wiki??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daves16v 1 Posted April 14, 2007 davidwort, Big thanks for your write-up, it helped me loads today. Changed both belts and the thermostat on my valver. Also noticed the alternator bolt (the long one) had no nut on it so i fixed that too. Very happy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daves16v 1 Posted July 27, 2009 Thought I'd revive this one as I'm doing this again. I remember now how fiddley it was last time but how do you know for sure that the thermostat and rubber seal are seated correctly? The 'stat seat is very shallow and a fairly accurate fit. I've managed to get it roughly into position then wiggled (best description) side to side and up and down to try to 'settle' it into it's correct seat. The overlap of the engine block seems to be the biggest pain. The bolts hand tighten up evenly so hopefully this has done it. I'll know tomorrow when I nip the bolts up and refill. Any other suggestions welcome :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted July 28, 2009 it's a real PITA to do with the pump in place, for the cost of a new pump (quite cheap) it's worth taking the old pump off and fitting the stat and elbow off the car. Having said that, if the pump to engine bolts won't budge, they have been known to snap in the block, which at least doubles the time to do the job! I've never actually had leaks from not seating the o-ring doing the stat with the pumpo on the car, but it makes me very angry every time I slip and drop the o-ring on my face, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pondy_p 0 Posted December 11, 2009 AArrrgh - changed pump recently and due to having really probs with the hoses I didn't fit the stat and housing until in place - I obvioulsy didn't fit very well and has over heating probs since - I decided to check this was the prob by running without stat (of course on the coldest morning this winter!!) so evidenlty was stat as ran very cool and think confused the old girl as she started revving uncontrollably?! is this a typical side effect?! So there must be a tip to fit the stat underneath with pump still in place as I fitted this new pump nearly at the expense of my marriage so can't change it again, especially as need car tomorrow morning. help!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
