nocrap 0 Posted April 14, 2007 Hi all, Trying to do a cam belt change on my car, we've removed the bolts from the bottom pulley and the first pulley has come away fine...the second one wont though......how is this one supposed to release?? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted April 14, 2007 It should come away fine. Try putting a bit of wood against it and giving it a sharp tap with a hammer to break the joint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 14, 2007 after speaking to a couple of other people who did this on a KR engine they said that they had to release the crank bolt in the middle of that second pulley...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 14, 2007 Hi all, Trying to do a cam belt change on my car, we've removed the bolts from the bottom pulley and the first pulley has come away fine...the second one wont though......how is this one supposed to release?? Cheers they do sieze on, I've known people mistakenly undo the crank bolt attempting to get them off, which shouldn't be done. I had to get heat on one once to break it free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 14, 2007 You wouldn't believe how excellent your timing is there! You were just about to know another person to have done that....many thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 14, 2007 You wouldn't believe how excellent your timing is there! You were just about to know another person to have done that....many thanks that would be a last resort and you must replace the bolt if it's removed as it's a stretch one, must be torqued correctly too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 15, 2007 Thanks again David, if it wont whack free today i've got a puller that i made for removing a rear brake drum from a car that i can modify. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 15, 2007 Vince says use a bit of wood so as not to damage the pulley... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted April 15, 2007 Vince says use a bit of wood so as not to damage the pulley... So did I :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 15, 2007 Releasing fluid over night, and a good 2 or 3 whacks with the plastic hammer got it off....thanks all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 17, 2007 Can i just confirm the torque of the bolt for the tensioner roller please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 17, 2007 at the bottom of pic 1, 33ft/lbs 45NM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 17, 2007 :lol: ah....yes......well..... when i used that the other day it snapped the stud! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 17, 2007 Im getting a bit of deja-vu here, wasn't that in another thread recently?, I've always used 45NM and that's not very tight really??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 17, 2007 humm, there are 2 types of stud that are used....1 is just a threaded rod with a gap in the middle, the other one that is used on my car is different widths at either end.....so would there be a different torque depending on the stud type? i would have though that the earlier type could have taken more as its thicker.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 17, 2007 good point, I'd imagine all those figures apply to early type 16v engines, I can't imagine the later type of tensionner is much different, you should be able to do it up with just a plain ring spanner, although I use a torque wrench now, in the past I've just guessed and nipped it up, can't see a small dap of threadlock would be a problem if you're worried about under-tightening it a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted April 17, 2007 ok....when we looked at the PG engine torque setting for that it said it should be 25nm so i think i'll probably go with that....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 17, 2007 No the PG IS 45Nm... Your later tensioner is the same as fitted to the ABF and the VAG manual says 25Nm Also after speaking to an Audi Tech - M10 is 45Nm and M8 up to 25Nm and the stud and nut should be replaced every other change so if unsure, change it! Bl00dy haynes manuals!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted April 17, 2007 I just did mine up 'tight'. Low torques on a torque wrench are a pain in the arse. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 17, 2007 No the PG IS 45Nm... Your later tensioner is the same as fitted to the ABF and the VAG manual says 25Nm Also after speaking to an Audi Tech - M10 is 45Nm and M8 up to 25Nm and the stud and nut should be replaced every other change so if unsure, change it! Bl00dy haynes manuals!!! to be fair the 'pink' Haynes passat manual is only up to 1992, and although the passat had the 9A engine in 1990-91 the tensionners were the same as the KR's up to then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 17, 2007 to be fair the 'pink' Haynes Tornado Red you mean :lol: They're still crap David - they could be so much better and they aren't - newer ones are even worse.... been reading some interesting stuff in the VAG self study manuals recently - not sure if you have access to these thru your father? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
