peanut 0 Posted July 1, 2007 Just about to do an engine rebuild on a 2.9vr, is it worth fitting the metal headgasket from the mk4? If so which one? the vr is charged running circa 9psi. Also are the vr headbolts stretch bolts? Cheers Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 1, 2007 Most definately.. VR head bolts are stretch bolts so you can't reuse them! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted July 1, 2007 okies ta, heard that certain headbolts werent stretch bolts, just wanted to check as ive always changed them as a matter of course Congrats on the trophy btw Jim Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted July 1, 2007 It's not the Mk4 Golf metal gasket (022 103 383 F) that you use, it is the one from a Sharan (AMY) or T4 (AES), with the matching head bolts. Gasket 021 103 383 N Bolts 021 103 384 K x 7 021 103 384 G x 10 021 103 384 L x 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StormchargedVR6 0 Posted July 1, 2007 Best to use ARP Head bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vdubjb 0 Posted July 2, 2007 you might not want to use the mkiv hg, it raises compression slightly. Running the charger, you could ping during warm weather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RS VR6 0 Posted July 2, 2007 I was told by VF to avoid the mk4 HG with my charger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve @ 0 Posted July 2, 2007 Yeah Vince advised me not to run the Mkiv gasket if its charged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 2, 2007 Yeah, the metal gasket is 1mm uncompressed, and the normal one is closer to 1.6mm compressed, so comp ratio does increase a little. I'd be tempted to use ARP rod and headbolts to keep it all together personally. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RS VR6 0 Posted July 3, 2007 The mk4 HG is supposed to raise compression by about half a point. IMO...the ARP's are good if you plan on removing the head more than once. Well your going to have to, because from what I know...you'll need to re-torque the ARP's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 3, 2007 Not quite half a point. You don't need to retorque ARP head bolts. That's the whole point of non-stretch bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RS VR6 0 Posted July 3, 2007 I thought it was the other way around. Stretch bolts are the ones that don't need to be re-torqued. Thats what VW uses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vdubjb 0 Posted July 3, 2007 it wont hurt, but it seems to not be needed. My head seems to be just fine 2 years after, never retorqued.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 4, 2007 Stretch bolts don't 'shrink' to take up slack either, they can only stretch further, causing a gasket leak, hence why people change them for ARPs. They should be mandatory on all forced induction VR6s imo...and ARP rod bolts too. If ARPs need retorquing, they weren't torqued correctly to begin with :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StormchargedVR6 0 Posted July 4, 2007 Stretch bolts don't 'shrink' to take up slack either, they can only stretch further, causing a gasket leak, hence why people change them for ARPs. They should be mandatory on all forced induction VR6s imo...and ARP rod bolts too. If ARPs need retorquing, they weren't torqued correctly to begin with :lol: Agree with kev ,defo fit ARP bolts with forced induction. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
