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dirtytorque

Whats a ball park figure to get an engine bored out?

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the worst dreams are the ones where you dream its fixed and running, then you wake up and its still in bits and broken!!! :brickwall:

 

my central locking/alarm. no end of problems with it.

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Maybe we should set up a support forum were we have therapist online to help us come to terms with hassle. :lol:

 

Oh and why are the smilies only on the preview page and why does it keep putting my cursor at the beginning of the masseage AAAAhhhh!

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Ill go to a CA meeting, in disguise though :afro:

 

"My name is Rob, and i have a corrado. This week i have been mostly changing wheel bearings..."

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You love it really.It would be boring if you had a brand spanking new Porshe that never went wrong with bags of power to play with.......

 

wouldn't it???? :scratch:

maybe.. I guess.

 

 

Anyway back to reality.

 

is the 6a bottom end identical to the 3a

Its obviously just the 16v head that is different.

 

ta.

 

Rob

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Not sure about the 6A thing I just know that a lot of golf mk2 gti boys do straight swap for them which makes them a little sort after. The way to check is to get a copy of ETKA and see which gasket/block parts are the same. It's difficult because you have to right down all the numbers for the parts then cross check them. I open two Virtual Machines running XP and run two copies of ETKA and ALT-TAB (or should I say APPLE-TAB) between them. I'm pretty sure they are the same block just with different pistons. Oh the KH of the pistons is 30.2mm add the rod length of 144mm and half the crank stroke which will be 92.8mm and you arrive at 220.6 which is the same as the 3A from what I have measured myself, including the compression lump on the top of the piston that is.

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Oooh just while I was having a quick look on ETKA the short engine for the 6A was the same as the ACE you metioned earlier so their's your answer for the ACE block

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Oh and your ABK and ADW block use different connecting rods to the ACE and 6A which incidently are the same as 3A rods.

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Do you mean "Short Engine" ? Short is used to refer to the engine without the cylinder head. So tall would be the enigine with the cylinder head. There are mistakes in ETKA but I've not found more than 1 or 2 IIRC.

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Whats the engine in it? How much did you pay? Break it to get your money back that you paid for it.

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Its a 3a.

 

£167 for the whole car so not too sad.

 

I rang around loads of breakers to find a 3a or a 6a but no one had one,and alot of them commented on how rare they are etc etc. :|

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Yep they are hard to find I bought a whole car for £150 and have now sold enough parts to have made my money back. So whats the plan cast/forged pistons? cast/forged rods?

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2 be honest the thought of diesel clatter from My C is a bit abhorrent.

is it really necessary to go forged on a modestly modified g60?

Around 220~230bhp or so?

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2 be honest the thought of diesel clatter from My C is a bit abhorrent.

is it really necessary to go forged on a modestly modified g60?

Around 220~230bhp or so?

 

No its not necessary but can you be sure you wont want to go further later on down the line.

 

And you generally only get clatter/piston slap on start up and warming the engine up, once warm its ok, i get more from the tappets.

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Agree on the noise thing. I think most aftermarket pistons are forged purely because they are actually cheaper to make than having a custom cast piston created. Obviously forged is stronger for high power engines. Henny runs modified SEAT cast pistons in his engine and hasn't come unstuck because of them and he quotes 240ish bhp and matching torque figures. I don't think his engine is runnig at the moment due to headbolt thread/gasket issues but his cast pistons didn't cause the problem. If you do find a set of 9:1ish low compression cast pistons you will end up getting forged rods either made up or customised or your engine height reduced or using a thicker head gasket. I've found a set of cast pistons that should give me around 9:1 compression but I don't want to mess around with the deck height of the block or thicker head gaskets so I'm having a set of forged rods from another engine modified for the purpose of getting the pistons to the exact same height as the origional 3A pistons were. It's alot of trouble to go to but I've read too many books (even one on engine thermo-dynamics) to be taking short cuts/easy options, but on a budjet (I'm Married) it ain't easy. I'm keeping this sort of stuff to myself at the moment incase I've made a horrible mistake in my calulations somewhere along the way and wouldn't want to point someone in the wrong direction.

 

EDIT: If your doing short journeys everyday especially in the winter I think forged pistons would be a let down. I only drive 7 miles to work hardly time to get the oil warmed up (which is why I kept the oil to water cooler) and I can't drive it flat out to work and home everyday so it's more a case of a daily driver but if you want the power it's there waiting with as few compromises along the way.

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Thnks everyone again for input.

 

ctwg60.

You have already done more than enough to get me on my way and get me thinking in the right directing.

Pointing me towards the "bubble block" was a big help.

Its now got to the point where I need to get to grips with the rest of the design myself and make some decisions to go forward.

 

I don't want to be in a position where I am blindly taking advice that I don't understand.

 

I have bought a book on short engine design and will keep scouring the net and this site for tips.

I will update this thread along the way. :)

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Glad to be of service. Enjoy yourself and take your time/get your money's worth. 8)

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