Stupid question of the day - rotor arm removal

[TrentSC 0]

Please accept my apologies for this really dumb question, but just how difficult should it be to remove a rotor arm from my 92 2.0 16 valver? Mine seems to be stuck fast, and I don't want to apply too much force before I check with the wise heads here...

 

Ta muchly!

[Riley 0]

They are sometimes glued on believe it or not...You have to lever them off/break them to remove.

 

Simply clean up any bits and push fit the new one (no glue)

Edit:Watch yer eyes too.

 

Neil. :)

[TrentSC 0]

They are sometimes glued on believe it or not...You have to lever them off/break them to remove.

 

Simply clean up any bits and push fit the new one (no glue)

Edit:Watch yer eyes too.

 

Neil. :)

 

Thanks for the reassurance - I'll take my industrial-sized screwdriver to it in the morning.

[Riley 0]

Aye,nice big flat screw driver...

 

Just watch for splitting/cracking the circular plastic cover when levering against dizzy body.

 

Neil.

[daves16v 1]

Just be careful you don't bend the centre shaft if you try to lever the arm off. I used mole grips in the end and broke the old one off bit by bit.

[jonnyboyo 0]

They're a proper pain to remove. Mine cracked then snapped when trying to remove it leaving me little option but to 'chip' it off bit by bit using a small hammer and sharp chisel. I know someone on here used a Dremmel to get theres off, which sounds a damn fine (and less brutal) idea to me.

 

Once removed, just slide the new one on without glue as mentioned above and you should'nt have any probs. Mines been on for a good few thousand miles now with no problems whatsoever.

[Yandards 0]

They're a proper pain to remove. Mine cracked then snapped when trying to remove it leaving me little option but to 'chip' it off bit by bit using a small hammer and sharp chisel. I know someone on here used a Dremmel to get theres off, which sounds a damn fine (and less brutal) idea to me.

 

Once removed, just slide the new one on without glue as mentioned above and you should'nt have any probs. Mines been on for a good few thousand miles now with no problems whatsoever.

 

Just for info folks they supposed to be glued on on the valvers.

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Another way of getting the rotor arm off is by removing the whole dist. unit and crushing the old rotor,no spliters,bent shafts etc.

[jonnyboyo 0]

YAN....Do you know why they're supposed to be glued on? Are they prone to coming off? Do you know what glue is best to use?

 

Worrying a tad now!!

[Supercharged 2]

They are glued not to come off becuase they are side mounted but I really wouldn't worry about it - loads of paople are driving about with them just pushed on and i've never heard of one spinning off...

[vwdeviant 0]

Just for info folks they supposed to be glued on on the valvers.

 

 

WTF? :shock:

[jonnyboyo 0]

Cheers Supercharged. Put my mind at ease now!

[daves16v 1]

On my 2nd valver now both not glued on and had no problems.

[davidwort 0]

On my 2nd valver now both not glued on and had no problems.

 

it's not like they've got anywhere to go anyway :)

 

Not had a glued one on mine since 1996, total overkill TBH. Mind you, every bolt on my Corrado seems to work loose, so just about everything else has threadlock on it!

[Yandards 0]

Just for info folks they supposed to be glued on on the valvers.

 

 

WTF? :shock:

 

The VAG manual for the KR ignition system does not say why it needs to be glued on but it does say to use AMV 185 100.01.

 

Looking on ETKA this looks like is has been superseeded by AMV 185 101 A1, comes in a 10ml something so it is probably super glueish type substance.

 

My guess on the why is that the rotor arm is not held in place by gravity, the contact on the inside of the cap does stop it coming completely off but this may, if the rotor move, accelerate wear on the contact in the cap.

 

Ultimately if the book says do it, it must do so for a good reason, and how often do you change a rotor arm anyway?

[TrentSC 0]

Just for info folks they supposed to be glued on on the valvers.

 

 

WTF? :shock:

 

The VAG manual for the KR ignition system does not say why it needs to be glued on but it does say to use AMV 185 100.01.

 

Looking on ETKA this looks like is has been superseeded by AMV 185 101 A1, comes in a 10ml something so it is probably super glueish type substance.

 

My guess on the why is that the rotor arm is not held in place by gravity, the contact on the inside of the cap does stop it coming completely off but this may, if the rotor move, accelerate wear on the contact in the cap.

 

Ultimately if the book says do it, it must do so for a good reason, and how often do you change a rotor arm anyway?

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the glue.

 

I'm slowly working my way through a list of possible solutions to the kangaroo problem. Tried Redex and cleaned out the ISV with carb cleaner, so the rotor arm is next, followed by replacement HT leads.

 

My plan is to have a go at all the possible cheap things first (!), gradually working my way up the list until something changes. It's a real PITA - the car appears to lose power as I let the clutch out in first. Took it into the local clutch repair centre and they were pretty certain it wasn't a clutch issue so told me not to spend money on them!