Installation of my Engine and transmisison setup

[corradog60stage4 0]

As most of you know that the past few years I didn;t have time to play with my C. But during that time I was buying goodies for it and today while i was cleaning up the garage I spent a few hours on the engine I will be using.

 

my C

 

which motor?

get rid of that crappy plastic windage tray thingy

new oil pan

sports windage tray

 

don't know why they stop putting those steel windage trays.

remember to torque the oil pump bolts 15 ft pounds

my clutch setup

lightened flywheel, XTD 6 puck sprung clutch and stage 4 XTD pressure plate

clean all mating surfaces with brake cleaner. you don;t want to have oil there

new bolts a la volkswagen

torque these bolts 44 ft pounds and a 90 degree additional turn. although they come with threadlocking I added my own as well.

my makeshift centering tool

waiting for the brake cleaner to evaporate

getting there

next week will be to mate the tranny and pop on the head.

 

 

Here is my old not sprung clutch setup that had before.

I will put this on one of the motors.

need new bolts

 

 

got two metal head gasket made in germany

VW OEM

Elring

solid front mount

new headbolts

poly mount

 

new coolant flange,

these guys always manage to break or leak.

 

my seat belts

finally dug out the rebuilt tranny from the corner of the garage.

the header for the G60

my fogs and will put in 3200K HID in them

mock up with the tranny in place

personalized touch from the boys at TRAC racing

my stage 4 charger

65mm pulley

Bahn Brenner RSR outlet

cheap belt that is not maintain could to $$$ expenses

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

stage 4 porting by KK

oil passage lies within

still searching for my titanium valve spring retainers and sport cam springs in this bundle of stuff.

 

got my port and polished head some where?? next weekend it is time to dig that out with the modified intake as well.

Once all this gets assembled i need a day or two to remove and replace the motor in my rado.

 

today in the garage looking for my valve train parts I found two more clutch disk that I had.

used one is a neuspeed one and the new one was a four puck sprung.

 

I don;t think i will use the four puck since it maybe too extreme for me.

 

 

I have some new rado door handles too that I need to replace.

 

 

painted red stock flywheel not lightened goes on the other motor

found my ported and polished matched head

here is engine number 2 in progress

i have installed the flywheel and ACT clutch kit.

 

you can see that this flywheel is not lightened.

 

finally found the sport valve springs, titanium retainers, BBM adjustable cam gear, BBM assymetrical camshaft, custom big intake manifold (jet coated) and alot of swaybars. LOL!!!

 

 

now to change stock valve springs to HD ones and titanium valve retainers

 

ghetto stylz

borrowed the tool from canadian tire and it was not the proper one too. had to improvise with a socket

 

the damn vw retainers and springs are recessed

 

 

after looking for some important parts, this is what i did this afternoon.

 

 

new tranny to engine bolts

21.00 in bolts

tranny install

release bearing lever and new bearing

grease up that fixed pivot point

i used what i had at home which was this moly grease

grease them contact patches

slap that lube

[corradog60stage4 0]

install lever first tehn after install bearing

make sure it is clipped on

torque these babies to 59 ft lbs

passed these for a mock up

 

here is what them belts looks like

always keep a few handy

 

this is today's progress and boy my back is aching.

no rain so move the wheelchair out

i need more space.

another treasure i dug up still in its packing when shipped from CA.

it was from last year and i finally get to open it. LOL!!!

i didn't like the rust

Oettinger wheel

i got shiat everywehre

i wonder where the motor is? LOL!!!

my workbench LOL!!!!

where did this come from?

020

My old differential so that means I got a Peloquin LSD.

Time to work on the motor now.

passed a razor blade over the mating surface.

my cam caps.

VW metal headggasket

the rebuilt head covered up in sran wrap.

new headbolts 9 refer to bentley)

new lifters

anyone know what kind of a cam this is? I remembered it was a BBM assymetrical. can anyone confirm?

installing the cam caps (refer to bentley)

add a touch of oil.

make sure the cap number and offset are correct.

no those are not condoms. LOL!!! they work on teh same principle as condoms do since i don;t want shiat to go in.

]

just put on a cover to prevent dust going in.

BBM adjustable cam gear

valve cover seal

usually inside is dirty

overall

another angle

[corradog60stage4 0]

two words WASH ME

I need space.

found another treasure that I bought two years ago.

BIG INJECTORS

I didn't want any fueling issues @ 18 psi

going to clean up that fuel rail

spare cover

 

Here are some more goodies i found and looks like I need to buy a starter, slave cylinder, studs, and nuts...

new timing belt

jet coated custom audi 5000s turbo intake manifold.

new coolant flange

oli cooler setup

unorthodox racing pulleys

[corradog60stage4 0]

went and bought my new slave cylinder at auto camping for 56.36. the old one was made of metal but the so called newer and improved version is plastic.

 

installed

 

will be picking up my starter and alternator tomorrow from DNS 2000.

you would need to remove the brass bushing and replace it with a new one when putting in a rebuilt starter.

 

new brass bushing installed

rebuilt starter

 

heavy duty diesel mount

 

 

Audi TT rear pivot bushings and sleeves

 

Audi TT front wishbone bushing

 

injector seals

 

thermostat housing

 

 

valve cover seal

 

 

after getting these media blasted I primed them for painting

 

silver metallic

supercharger bracket mounted

enlarged TB

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

slowly but surely

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

couldn't remove the front end because of one rusted bolt that got jammed into the metal sleeve.

chisel at work

prying with screwdriver

alot of weight gets applied to the front crossmember so adequate support of the motor is needed

front motor mount is finished

rusted out bolt inside the sleeve

attempt to drill out bolt

motor will be easy to remove now with crossmember off.

old G looks in pretty decent condition

motor has coolant and oil leaks

 

now the damn exhaust manifold bolts are giving me grief.

i broke off 3 nuts, removed 4 nuts and one is rounded.

the rounded nut is wasting my time today.

 

here is my progress for today and just pulled out the motor.

 

 

picked up new cap and rotor

 

 

I'm replacing the front hydraulic mount with an aluminium solid mount.

Since there is going to be an increase in power from stock the standard M8, and M10 bolts will be under heavy load. So I decided to DIY them a size bigger to M10 for the M8 and M12 for the M10 that are 35mm long.

 

here are the rusted stock bolts and here are the 12.9 grade socket bolts and washers.

 

front mount

picked up a prothane engine mount insert for under 20 taxes included from RMR.

 

very simple to install and has good results

solid motor mount for 25.00 from Tony

you just push these into the stock mount to fill in the voids.

 

 

took out the stock manifold and cat. it was hard but just time consuming getting rid of the bolts that are rusted together. used a rotary tool with a cut off wheel. LOL!!!

 

manifold removed

cat is next and the nut holding the clamp was so rusted that i broke it off.

custom exhaust will come later after get some more practice with the TIG.

 

checking out the race header

the stock manifold and cat weighs a ton and with the header will shed a good 25 lbs off the car.

will need to buy a O2 sensor

 

new thermostat housing with 160F thermostat.

 

can you see the 160 inside

driver's side diesel mount

both motors side by side

old charger

stage 4 a la KK

back to no space to work damn it.,

[corradog60stage4 0]

last night was checking out the stock throttle body vs the one i will be using with the bigger intake.

 

 

any difference?

 

to compliment the lower temp thermostat you will need a lower thermoswitch

 

 

these boxes arrived finally

some more parts

 

 

 

everytime i have to move out this stuff on to the driveway so i have room to work

out goes the electric wheelchair

installed rear motor mount

sprayed g-lader support and rear engine bracket

DIY upgraded hardware for solid mount. M12 and M10 @12.9 grade

almost rust free cross member with stock mount

removed stock mount

upgraded billet mount installed

installed the pulley tensioner

dry to the touch I installed the engine bracket

installed tranny brackets

all bolts are torqued to specs

wire loomed a few hoses

got to repair butchered the O2 wires

trying to figure where to put this??

[Dec 1]

Wow!!....nice work!That's a pretty detailed photo diary of the work too! :lol:

 

don't know how you manage to find anything in that garage though! :lol:

[dirtytorque 0]

Very interesting,good luck with this.

 

:)

 

I thought my shed was bad with tools and car bits. 8)

[Yandards 0]

Loads of good pics, nice work.

 

I suppose the question would be why do you need new blocks and one old one? ;)

[corradog60stage4 0]

Wow!!....nice work!That's a pretty detailed photo diary of the work too! :lol:

 

don't know how you manage to find anything in that garage though! :lol:

 

thanks and once i get most of the project done all the leftover parts will be posted here for sale. :D

 

yeah it is about time to clean it out so i have more room to work on the corrado but you do with what you got.

 

 

 

installation of crossmember

 

had to enlarge hole for bracket

slight problem trying to align the front solid mount

 

loom to clean up the wires

 

 

yeah i don;t know why snapfish changed the link codes???

 

here are some goodies that are still not installed yet

 

extra set of lucas calipers

front stainless brake lines

extra front upper strut bar a la neuspeed.

 

stainless sebring muffler

100% made in austria

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

most of the stock wires and harnesses is cleaned up.

 

 

 

found the ic and tinkering with the euro lights

 

 

you can see the oil cooler

 

 

 

 

 

looks like i need to cut out half of the bumper support off to fit it

 

 

 

 

my workbench LOL!

 

 

coilovers are in and just need to adjust height with which wheels i choose to use. the FKs or the Oettingers?

 

 

 

I got less than 1 foot of space around the rear of the rado before it hits my tool chest.

 

I got about 2 feet width on the passenger side.

 

 

 

finally the passenger rear is in

 

 

there is not much room and too many parts that i need to sell.

help me out and buy them parts so i have more room to work :beerchug:

 

making a T fitting for my boost gauge. I will be tapping into one of the vaccum lines that ataches to the intake manifold.

 

parts cost me less than 10 bucks

teflon thread sealer

for 25 cents you can;t go wrong

two barbed fittings

t fitting

tube fitting

 

voila all assembled

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

install the serpentine

this was how the O2 wiring was being butchered from previous owner

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

O2 installation

 

important not to get any on the probe. if you do it is garbage

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

The Volvo's 12 row oil cooler should be adequate to cool the oil but if you know me i like to drive my cars really hard so I went with a Brand new MOCAL 19 row oil cooler instead.

 

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

got some new plugs

 

tried to look for some W5 but no one had them

 

so went with stock W6

 

 

 

 

possibility of old skool sound system

possibilty of three sets of wheels with new tires

15 inch bbs

17 inch Oettinger

17 inch FKs

 

FK coilovers

 

FK wheels and tires installed

interior

rear leather

autometer gauge pods

peace of mind with metal impeller water pump

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

 

 

 

 

 

[corradog60stage4 0]

new stage 5 chip arrived this morning

 

 

installing the chip today

 

 

 

 

[CTWG60 0]

Good work man my head is spinning :turn-l: looking at all this stuff your doing. What's that rear engine mount your using and where did you get that intake manifold from? :)

[corradog60stage4 0]

Good work man my head is spinning :turn-l: looking at all this stuff your doing. What's that rear engine mount your using and where did you get that intake manifold from? :)

 

 

Thanks buddy! The rear engine mount is a solid rubber mount for a GTI and it has the Prothane Polyurethane insert in it. As for the intake manifold it is from an Audi 5000S Turbo and one of the intake runners was cut off and modified for four and the throttle plate was cut and rewelded.

[CTWG60 0]

Thanks buddy! The rear engine mount is a solid rubber mount for a GTI and it has the Prothane Polyurethane insert in it. As for the intake manifold it is from an Audi 5000S Turbo and one of the intake runners was cut off and modified for four and the throttle plate was cut and rewelded.

 

Right I see! So you can't buy these off the shelf, you have to make them yourself? Who made yours? Whats the advantage larger runners? Or is the fact that they have a straight longer run into the ports of the head?

[corradog60stage4 0]

Thanks buddy! The rear engine mount is a solid rubber mount for a GTI and it has the Prothane Polyurethane insert in it. As for the intake manifold it is from an Audi 5000S Turbo and one of the intake runners was cut off and modified for four and the throttle plate was cut and rewelded.

 

Right I see! So you can't buy these off the shelf, you have to make them yourself? Who made yours? Whats the advantage larger runners? Or is the fact that they have a straight longer run into the ports of the head?

 

Well you can buy an Audi 5000S turbo manifold but you will need to cut and weld it to make it work on the corrado. I cut it myself and had a friend of mines weld it before I got my TIG welder now and the ceramic coating was done by a company for me. The advantages of larger runners is 25-30% more straight air compared to the stock G-60 one hence increasing the output with the same amount of boost.

 

check out the difference of stock G-60 vs Audi 5000S Turbo

 

 

[CTWG60 0]

You don't have a part no. for the origional audi manifold do you? We don't have 5000s Audis in the uk and I'm struggling to id which car/manifold I should be looking for!!

 

Did it look like this origionally?

[corradog60stage4 0]

You don't have a part no. for the origional audi manifold do you? We don't have 5000s Audis in the uk and I'm struggling to id which car/manifold I should be looking for!!

 

Did it look like this origionally?

 

 

sorry i don;t have the part number of the intake in question. the audi 5000S turbo was 1986-88 or maybe called CS turbo but the one pictured does not look like the original one i had. the ports in your picture looks smaller and it did not have that runner diagonal of the intake runners.