Baylez 0 Posted April 23, 2009 i just heard of a very quick cheap and easy way to get a turboed 8v from a scrappy.... 8v pb block from mk2 golf, or g60 block, or even the kr block 8v carb head from any old vw 1.6 turbo diesel manifold from mk2 golf all bolts together nicely, i havent used this yet, but i know of someone that has may times. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTWG60 0 Posted April 23, 2009 i just heard of a very quick cheap and easy way to get a turboed 8v from a scrappy.... 8v pb block from mk2 golf, or g60 block, or even the kr block 8v carb head from any old vw 1.6 turbo diesel manifold from mk2 golf all bolts together nicely, i havent used this yet, but i know of someone that has may times. Seems unlikely to be honest! :) Where are you going to plumb in your injectors on an 8v carburetor head? Are you suggesting that you will also use a points distributor and carburetor aswell? :scratch: Also pb engine would be about 10.5:1 CR and with a kr bottom end about 11 or 12:1. :wave: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60karmann 0 Posted April 23, 2009 he must mean carb turbo :scratch: which would be a lot easier than injection as all you would have to do is crank up the fuel, getting it running well and for any period of time would be difficult Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baylez 0 Posted April 29, 2009 yep, but its power for practically bugger all money Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 9, 2009 Might get my hands on a another complete G60 engine that I plan to strip down and rebuild. Wondered what piston/rod combo you guys would recomment? Was thinking Scat H-beam rods, but they only seem to come in 144mm length (16V). So then I dunno what piston to use to get the right compression ratio..? Could go custom, but I guess that'd bring up the price a bit.. :confused4: The stock rods that's in the block are probably okay, as the engine was running smoothly before being pulled out of the car. But fresh rods would be nice to have, unless you guys would advice against using others. I've read somewhere that if I change rods, I should go for 144mm also, comments on that? I'd like a bit higher compression ratio then original, something like 9:1 or 9.25:1. (Atm ported RSR G-lader with 68mm wheel, recently rebuild.. No plans for turbo, gonna build the block for the g-lader.) Other info if needed: de-cat, 2.5" new exhaust. Plans for FMIC. Also gonna get the head ported, but don't plan on going big-valves just yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted July 9, 2009 I run 144mm rods and i was told by Jabbasport that its good to do it that way so you can get a better piston design, no idea what or why though, Jabbasport then use JE Pistons at £600ish a set of 4. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted July 9, 2009 Oh and i run standard but balanced 16v/20v rods not forged jobbies, they are good for 1.5bar all day long so unless your going turbo then there is no need for forged items. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted July 12, 2009 Might get my hands on a another complete G60 engine that I plan to strip down and rebuild. Wondered what piston/rod combo you guys would recomment? Was thinking Scat H-beam rods, but they only seem to come in 144mm length (16V). So then I dunno what piston to use to get the right compression ratio..? Could go custom, but I guess that'd bring up the price a bit.. :confused4: The stock rods that's in the block are probably okay, as the engine was running smoothly before being pulled out of the car. But fresh rods would be nice to have, unless you guys would advice against using others. I've read somewhere that if I change rods, I should go for 144mm also, comments on that? I'd like a bit higher compression ratio then original, something like 9:1 or 9.25:1. (Atm ported RSR G-lader with 68mm wheel, recently rebuild.. No plans for turbo, gonna build the block for the g-lader.) Other info if needed: de-cat, 2.5" new exhaust. Plans for FMIC. Also gonna get the head ported, but don't plan on going big-valves just yet. what are you trying to achieve,more compression and or more capacity? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 12, 2009 what are you trying to achieve,more compression and or more capacity? Just a tad higher compression. The engine's done 160000km and so far looking good. Haven't taken the top of yet, but getting there. Another possibility might be a group A headgasket from VWmotorsport (~0.5 more compression) and to shave the top a tiiiny bit..? :confused4: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 21, 2009 Anyone got any experience/thoughts about the "Group A headgasket"? The bores/piston seems to be all nice (measured with the correct tools), so I was hoping for a cheap way of increasing the compression a tiny bit.. :norty: http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsLi ... &SubNav=69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted July 23, 2009 Anyone got any experience/thoughts about the "Group A headgasket"? The bores/piston seems to be all nice (measured with the correct tools), so I was hoping for a cheap way of increasing the compression a tiny bit.. :norty: http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsLi ... &SubNav=69 As long as you still have the necessary valve clearance I'd give it a go. I might try it out in the winter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerrly 0 Posted June 21, 2010 i just heard of a very quick cheap and easy way to get a turboed 8v from a scrappy.... 8v pb block from mk2 golf, or g60 block, or even the kr block 8v carb head from any old vw 1.6 turbo diesel manifold from mk2 golf all bolts together nicely, i havent used this yet, but i know of someone that has may times. It is more likely that he has a 16v block with a 8v PB head which with a diesel turbo fitted. A 8v head on a 16v block gives a 8-1 CR or there abouts. Hence people have used KR or 9A blocks to build 8v turbos. Plus a diesel Turbo is only light pressure and due to GTD being a 8v set up to the head is very similar so i should think the exhaust manifold is a straight fit. Only slight issues could be clearance between inlet and turbo. Certianly very possible to run on Digi management with this set up to. dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted June 22, 2010 most 8v pistons are domed where as the 16v blocks have flat pistons so i would of thought using an 8v head on a 16v block would actulally raise the compression!?! It is common for people to do this the other way around.A 16v head on an 8v block,which gives a cr of about 8.0:1. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTWG60 0 Posted June 23, 2010 most 8v pistons are domed where as the 16v blocks have flat pistons so i would of thought using an 8v head on a 16v block would actulally raise the compression!?! It is common for people to do this the other way around.A 16v head on an 8v block,which gives a cr of about 8.0:1. I concur! 16v=10.5:1CR 45cc in the head 8v=10.5:1CR 30cc in the head with the rest coming from the dish in the piston 15cc? (?can't remember now?). :salute: 16v head+8v pistons around 60cc = 8:1CR or a tad less than that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 3, 2010 Just a thought.. Recently bought a fabric overhauled 1.8 8v GTI engine.. (EV code).. For 340gbp.. If I strap a big valve PG head on it, running 10:1 in compression, 68mm pulley on a max portex charger, "nyfam" stage3 ported intake, G-Werks header, Newman 264/268 high lift cam, custom map and E85.. Air-water intercooler to come also.. Would it work or would the compression maybe be too high? Would the PG head fit the EV block? Any thoughts..? :norty: Would the compression still be 10:1 with the PG head, or would it be more/less..? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTWG60 0 Posted July 3, 2010 10:1 or there abouts has been tried before, the car made good power and torque but it wasn't very reliable and caused all sorts of problems with tuning. E85 may help with timing advance and ultimately knock but it would be a gamble. I'd stick with the GTi head and cam if you were going to try this as the overlap would help with such a high compression ratio. The solid lifters of the EV head would allow you to rev higher and still keep making power. Could be interesting! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 4, 2010 The gti engine actually had hyraulic lifters (I've checked).. So must be from after 1986 or so.. And since I'm running a charger I can't go too high on the rpm's. Also, fitting a ported big valve head should lower the boost a bit, so maybe running around 0.6-0.7 or thereabouts..? (Getting 1bar from 2500rpm on a stock rebuilt head now :norty:) Would be fun to try. But if I stacked 2 gaskets, would that give roughly 9:1 compression..? (I'm not good at engine maths :( ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTWG60 0 Posted July 4, 2010 The EV engine in my old 1985 car was solid lifter must be a head from a later car. If your going to lower the CR I can't see the point of using it. Sell it and get a PG bottom end I have one in the garage if your interested! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
