engine bay tapping noise - its running now!!

[boost monkey 0]

I have a sealey, think it was £30 all in delivered so not crazy prices, but the construction and welds on it are pretty good.

[fla 9]

Will have a look - do you know if you can also mount transmissions on it or does that require a different stand? I'm just giving my auto box a service so want to rotate that more easily than keeping it on a pallet.

Will take some pics etc of the auto service so it may help anyone else. At this stage it will be a fluid replacement plus a general clean of the valve body, which usually accounts for a lot of the problems in any auto box. If i'm feeling daring i may open the box up, check the clutches and replace any that look dodgy. Anyone know a good supplier of auto clutches and gaskets?

[boost monkey 0]

arms on the stand are movable, only limit is the weight. Mine goes up to 350kg, and even a VR doesn't weigh that much!

 

you can mount on the bellhousing no probs at all.

[fla 9]

In too much of a rush so made some basic schedule errors - drained the auto tranny fluid, took the filter out (nice and mucky) and found i didnt have the right one. Why was this an error? Well i needed to attach the gearbox temporarily to the block to turn the engine over and get some oil circulating. So i'm stuck until i get a new tranny filter and refill this. Have a look at the fluid colour it is like thick chocolate syrup. Not good. This was apparently changed by a garage i had to take the car to, but if you look closely, you'll see the original filter date of 15 April 1994 on it. There's typical spanner-monkey honesty for you :mad2: .

My regular mechanic is not the cheapest, but he's very honest, which is waht you pay for.

Some new pics. Valves look oaky, but i'll post some of those when i take the filter off again.

 

Just for anyone who wants to do the fluid change:

 

1. remove the 17mm bolts from the sump protector. Clean out the inside of the guard, it will have loads of gunk on it.

2. Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the sump cover in place. Lever this gently from the rear side of the car, and make sure you have a fairly large oil pan/tray to collect the fluid

3. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the filter in and gently remove the filter.

4. Coat the new filter face with some ATF before fitting.

5. Fit new filter and screw in, not too tight, its only plastic

6. Clean out sump, plus magnet in the bottom, using clean rags. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. The auto box is VERY succeptible to dust or grit ingress and these can block one of the valves causing innumerate problems.

7. Remove the sump gasket, replace if you wish, or clean it thoroughly with white spirit and leave to dry thoroughly (and slowly) and refit, using some RTV silicone if you wish.

8. Refit sump with the four bolts

9. Refit sump guard 17mm bolts

10. Fill with ATF slowly checking the level as you go.

 

It is critical to ensure that the ATF level is not too high or too low - too high will cause foaming and overpressure in the box, too low and it will cause slight cavitation and increased wear rate.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Just fit the flywheel and leave the torque converter out mate,then fit the starter and turn it over.

[fla 9]

Had thought of that but the flywheel and torque converter are welded together as a single unit unfortunately.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Had thought of that but the flywheel and torque converter are welded together as a single unit unfortunately.

 

are they? so the ring gear is part of the torque converter? never seen that before!.....i will shut up now! :ignore: :lol:

[fla 9]

 

are they? so the ring gear is part of the torque converter? never seen that before!.....i will shut up now! :ignore: :lol:

 

No James dont, i find your advice very useful :) I'll post a pic of the torque converter for the record.

[fla 9]

some more pics, these might help those that are looking to change their auto fluid and filter. Plus some of the water pump seal.

[zak 0]

Hassan seems like the project is coming along nicely and you have learnt alot 8) When will this low miler be gracing the roads again?

[fla 9]

TBH, it only really needs about 2-3 days solid work to get it running (thats assuming it starts and runs first time LOL) and i can only give it a few hours every weekend or so. Might take some time off work and get it ready by May. Then th brake upgrade and Koni/Pi s to go on.

[fla 9]

Took most of today to get the gearbox fitted, with the help of my dad and two friends. The box is heavy enough and now the total block weight is really a lot...

Anyway, i've re-hammerited the cross member and brackets, and rad support panel. Hopefully if these dry by tomorrow the engine will be going back in. Actually i will be cleaning and polishing the engine bay first, turning the engine over for a few mins and then putting the inlet manifold etc back on. That will be most of tomorrow. One presumed additional job will be to strip and rebuild the brakes - i imagine these will have seized standing in one position for 4 months, but that will be easy. Will post some new pics tomorrow hopefully.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Good progress bud,soon you will be ready for the summer! :clap:

[fla 9]

Hope so James! BUT, the consequences of keeping the front of the car on ramps for 4 months meant when i opened the pass door to check the back was OK i was met by a pond - water was about 6 inches deep :shock: . Couldnt believe it especially as i had checked and repaired the door membrane seal, the window seal and the scuttle. I think it must have gradually come through the fan. anyway, used a 1 litre beaker to get most of it out and then the rest was mopped up with a sponge. At the moment i've got no space to put the interior, but i'll prob need to pull it out sharpish. Didnt take any pics as i was too bloody surprised.

 

Back to the car. I turned the engine over for about 30 secs before the battery started going. Still didnt appear to have any oil at the head. How long should it take before this happens? I would ahve thought only maybe a minute or so? I didnt fill the pump with oil before refitting, so i presume that it is still priming itself. The oil level is below min in the sump, but there is aboy 5 litres in there. Its just to circulate and then this will be drained after 100 or so miles.

 

Also, should the oil be spalshing out of the head by the tappets or just sort of 'be' there? I dont want to put the mani on without knowing its all circulating ok. :help: I tried it a few times so in total for about 2 minutes before putting the battery back on charge.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

you should have oil up there from new within 30sec of fast cranking,if not there is a problem,the oil does not gush out more trickle out.

Has the tensioner self adjusted yet?

 

Have you fitted the intermediate shaft rod for the oil pump back in ?

[fla 9]

You're quite right James. That's what i expected. anyway the problem was found and guess what? This whole problem was caused by.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the Mocal oil cooler bolt, fitted the wrong way around, can you believe it. According to all sources, it doesnt matter which way round you fit it. Well it damn well does. So to all of you who are dispensing with your oil cooler and fitting just the sandwich plate, MAKE SURE YOU FIT THE BOLT CORRECTLY! That means with the short end of the thread fitted to the oil cap showing the oil circulation holes near the cap. The other way around means that oil will not circulate and you will screw up your engine as what happened to me. The tapping noise i was getting yesterday was the cahin slack not being taken up by the tensioner as there was no oil there of course. Turned the mocal bolt around and as James mentioned, 30 secs and oil was flying around the head.

 

So now its all being put together and as soon as i can clear out the garage the seats and carpet will be out to be shampooed etc... Lots of steel brushes, hammerite, polish, HT paint and then we're almost there.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Hasan,

there must be a mixture of emotions there; on the one hand, "how could I have been so careless to have caused myself all this trouble?", but on the other, "thank heavens I have found out the definitive solution to the problem".

And you have probably the cleanest engine in the business.

And you have met some nice people on the journey.......

And Spring has come at last!

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[fla 9]

Hasan,

there must be a mixture of emotions there; on the one hand, "how could I have been so careless to have caused myself all this trouble?", but on the other, "thank heavens I have found out the definitive solution to the problem".

And you have probably the cleanest engine in the business.

And you have met some nice people on the journey.......

And Spring has come at last!

 

Best wishes

 

RB

:D

 

Very true Roger, very true indeed.

[antonio_b12 0]

glad you found the problem out, you learn something new everyday. :wink:

[fla 9]

The threaded bars to locate the rocker cover - how do you get them out, cant shift them at all from the old head? As an alternative, i might just use some similar sized bolts instead with some threadlock, would this suffice or would teh heat in the head cause them to loosen? Otherwise, what is the thread size (M4 perhaps?) as i'd like to pick up some bar today? Also, if i fit new threaded bar, how do you fix it in solidly?

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Have you tried locking 2 nuts together , (please, no sniggers at the back of the room :nono: ...), and then turning the lower nut? That should unscrew the stud.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[fla 9]

finally got the engine in - took about 3 hours to locate it correctly, well to move it about 2cm so the mounting holes lined up. Hammerited the rad panel and cross member after removing all the rust. Smoothrite is not too easy to apply and still leaves brush marks, but at least these parts are quite hidden.

Just need to tie up a few bits around the gearbox etc, glad to finally get it off those damn ramps!

Some more pics.

[fla 9]

My car hates me! Had to lift the engine to resite the power sterring pipe behind the engine mount and now teh engine has moved about 2cm from the mounting holes :mad2: Looks like another 3 hours reloacting that then...

 

On a separate point, where can you get the fabric insualtion tape for the wiring? The existing tape is all dry and almost falling off?

[nocrap 0]

Think you can get it straight from VW, or from here http://www.vagparts.co.uk/ in their aladdins cave bit...

[fla 9]

Engine is finally in place, now need to attach the remaining ancillaries and connectors.

How do you get the driveshafts to fit into the flanges? The pass side is ok, the drivers side seems as though its become 2cm too long now and wont slot into the gearbox flange.