Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
fla

engine bay tapping noise - its running now!!

Recommended Posts

I've never actually heard of the chains just going on the VR, let alone one with that sort of mileage.

 

Will be interested to see what has happened!

 

Its not possible that the tapping was due to oil starvation, and subsequently the engine has siezed or something dreadful like that is it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The starter motor may be turning but if it has not engaged the starter ring, the engine isnt turning. Take out a plug and check that the crankshaft and pistons are rotating. Only then can you be absolutely sure that the chains have broken. But, tbh, if it stopped dead it sounds bad

 

Best wishes

 

RB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jim - could be, but when the temp got up to about 70 the noise used to disappear. Plus there were no abnormally high temps, which would indicate lack of oil.

RB - will have a look tomorrow, thanks for that.

 

If it is the worst case scenario i may be on the lookout for a new block. Does anyone know of one in good nick and lowish mileage?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is it not possible to turn the engine over by hand using a spanner? then that would eliminate the starter motor not meshing with the flywheel.

 

I don't think ive ever heard of anyones chains snapping so wouldnt fear the worst just yet. Let me know if you need a hand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard of a couple of cases of chain snapping, but it is rare.

How to tell: put it in gear and roll the car forward/back - if the cams don't move then chains are knacked, because you're *definitely* turning the crank when you do that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Zak - thanks for the offer, might need to take you up on that! RB & Mat useful pointers thanks.

Just spoken with another mechanic and he needs to see teh car first before diagnosing the problem. says it may just be the starter coupler, as we need to check if the cranks are turning as well (same as RB advised) If the chains are snapped then its far easier to just pull the engine out and put a new one in. I'm feeling somewhat reassured now as i was seriously contemplating breaking it, thankfully that wont need to be an option (hopefully)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If the chains are snapped then its far easier to just pull the engine out and put a new one in. I'm feeling somewhat reassured now as i was seriously contemplating breaking it, thankfully that wont need to be an option (hopefully)

 

 

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water just yet....

 

You've got a 60k mile bottom end, which is a great base and shouldn't have suffered much damage (posibly need a piston or two), get the valves replaced or buy a second hand head and get it fully rebuilt and wack it on probably cost around £500 for the head/refurb. You'd have new chains and tensioners etc and would never have to worry about the engine internals again... compare that to buying a fairly unknown second hand engine which could potentially need all the same work doing in the future......

 

See what turns out with the mechanic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Toad - interesting points. What could i expect to pay for that little lot ie how much are pistons etc? I know chains are faily cheap (£20 for a trade buyer) plus tensioners which are also not too much i believe (can anyone elaborate?) What pointers should i give to the mechanic?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive got my old block, pistons, rods, crank in my garage. You can have any of it that you need for free mate. One of the rods spun a bearing, so is of no use, but the pistons are fine. Let me know, or find out if its better to buy new ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stan, many thanks for that, its very kind of you.

Just had a chat with Jimmi, who suspects its prob NOT the chains and its best to turn the engine manually first and see. Its more likely somehing to do with the starter motor and the tapping may just have been a stuck tappet. I hope he's right, but i'll turn it over manually this weekend and see. What size socket is required, 26 or 28mm i guess? If its the chains he says it may be better to get a 2.8 and rebore this to 2.9 so i can use my old pistons with new liners. Anyway if anyone has any other ideas or suggestioins i'd welcome them. Lest i repeat myself in this thread, all comments and support are greatly appreciated. Its bizarre feeling frustrated over a car - then again these are our Ferraris and Lambos, the attainable pride & joys. Do pm me if you ahve any further advice or suggestion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ive got my old block, pistons, rods, crank in my garage. You can have any of it that you need for free mate. One of the rods spun a bearing, so is of no use, but the pistons are fine. Let me know, or find out if its better to buy new ones.

 

And in theory i still have a partly shagged vr bottom end and a reasonably good head at Stealth racing still - you're also welcome to any of that for free mate. I reckon between me and Stanley that should pretty much be the whole shebang.

 

You'd have to ask Vince though - cos I can't be a*sed! Tis free though! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

double 6s - cheers too. I picked my car up this evening so i'll be having a look at it tomorrow to see what exactly the problem is. Then the fun will start!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard of shagged fluid flywheels stopping the engine turning.

 

27mm is the socket you'll need to turn the motor by hand. Take the plugs out first though or you'll struggle!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didnt get time to havea look this weekend so next weekend it is. Zak, thanks for the text.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you get access to that 27mm head to turn the engine over - it seems to be just too tight for a socket or a spanner in there? Also, to remove the inlet manifold, is it better to remove the throttle body from the manifold or the air inlet line? I've just about managed to open the manifold bolts without removing the slam panel or fans, but putting them back may be a tad harder. Suggestions? I presume all gaskets should be replaced too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, i removed the manifold and rocker cover, a bit of a pain getting all those bolts off.

 

Now the chains are OK, thankfully, but this makes it even more confusing. I am not sure what the tapping noise was - it appeared to come from the left hand of the rocker cover, which had the vapour valve fitted to it. The cams look fine and i'll try and post some pics of it soon. As mentioned in my previous post i dont know how to turn the engine by hand as there's no space. Now i dont know what to look for or what to try. I guess the starter clutch is toast, so that will be replaced soon (is there any difference between a manual and auto starter?) But whilst i feel reassureed that the chains are OK, i'm kind of at a standstill as to what to do now.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just had a look in my engine bay and see what you mean about space, try access from underneath after jacking the car?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...