Any tips for brake line removal?

[STORM 2 0]

Hi, I am having a helluva time trying to get the front brake lines disconnected at the junction between rubber and metal, high inside the wheelarch.

There's a smaller nut on the hard ine and the larger 'nut' of the rubber line.

I simply can't get the two disconnected and have tried everything in my tool box.

 

Do I need to remove the clip that attches the connection to the wheelarch first? Is is better to go intowards the manifold and detach the metal line from there and feed it though the arch?

 

I'm trying to replace the front lines and the calipers............ :mad: :mad: :mad:

[joby 0]

There is a proper brake spanner you can buy designed for the nuts on the copper brake pipe which helps as you can easily round the nut off with an 11mm spanner so be carefull! Halfords may sell it...

[Goldie 2]

Sounds familiar, had the same problem when i did mine. Ended up removing the line (drivers side so the lingest one) from the ABS block cutting the end off and reswaging a new union on, bit of a mission but the nut just wasnt playing at all..

[STORM 2 0]

There is a proper brake spanner you can buy designed for the nuts on the copper brake pipe which helps as you can easily round the nut off with an 11mm spanner so be carefull! Halfords may sell it...

 

 

Is that the one which looks like an ordinary spanner but has a slot in it?

If so I've already tried those :(

[pete_griff 0]

the best thing you can do when you get to that stage (in my opinion) is just cut your losses and cut the brake line.

 

make sure you cut it as close to the end as possible and keep the original shape so you can copy it.

 

then either make some new ones yourself, or get someone to make them for you - lots of motor factors will make them up for you if you take in your old lines for them to copy.

 

also if you can get hold of it use copper nickel line rather than just copper as it's stronger and lasts longer.

 

i know it's a ball-ache, but at the end of the day if you're removing the old lines anyway and they are corroded to the point where they are bastards to undo,then it's really worth replacing them anyway, so they don't cause corrosion issues when it comes to MOT time.

 

also, when you are removing the old lines be aware that where the flexible hose pushes up through the mounting point on the inside of the wheelarch - it is splined on the end - i.e the hose end of the connection itself will not turn at all - the only thing you can turn to undo it is the bolt on the end of the solid line which the line passes through. (if that makes sense...)

[pete_griff 0]

also a good thing to try to remove the old line before you have to cut through it is a good set of mole grips with some sharp teeth on them to grip the bolt - don't be at all surprised if the line shears off though while you are undoing the bolt.

 

another thing is to make sure you keep the little gromet that goes around the line where it goes through the inner arch and into the engine bay so you can put it on the new line/s when they go on

[Jon_vr6 1]

Mine ended up rounding off so cut them just above the nut ripped em out and put new ones in best way really!!

[STORM 2 0]

.

 

also, when you are removing the old lines be aware that where the flexible hose pushes up through the mounting point on the inside of the wheelarch - it is splined on the end - i.e the hose end of the connection itself will not turn at all - the only thing you can turn to undo it is the bolt on the end of the solid line which the line passes through. (if that makes sense...)

 

 

Thanks for that - I have some Goodridge lines waiting to go on -

 

Regarding the brake union - are you saying it can only be disconnected by the smaller nut on the solid line? If this were loosened should the flexible hose just drop down throught the mounting point? Does it matter whether the clip on the mounting point stays on does the union have to be released from the mounting point first?

 

Many thanks

[pete_griff 0]

.

 

also, when you are removing the old lines be aware that where the flexible hose pushes up through the mounting point on the inside of the wheelarch - it is splined on the end - i.e the hose end of the connection itself will not turn at all - the only thing you can turn to undo it is the bolt on the end of the solid line which the line passes through. (if that makes sense...)

 

 

Thanks for that - I have some Goodridge lines waiting to go on -

 

Regarding the brake union - are you saying it can only be disconnected by the smaller nut on the solid line? If this were loosened should the flexible hose just drop down throught the mounting point? Does it matter whether the clip on the mounting point stays on does the union have to be released from the mounting point first?

 

Many thanks[/quote:bsa7su0b]

 

yes you have to remove the smaller nut first and then the larger part on the end of the hose will drop out of the mounting (well you'll probably have to wiggle/tap it out). the clip (if there is one on the car) can be removed at any time before the larger end drops out...

[nocrap 0]

A common problem that is usually overcome at garages by using oxy-acetylene (sp?) to heat up the union nut. I had to do this with mine and it worked very well....well apart from one of the lines blowing up while my head was in the wheel arch! That made me feel ill for a couple of hours, atomized brake fluid is not good!! It blew due to the pressure build up and came apart at the crimp.

 

This is fairly safe to do but be warned that brake fluid is highly flammable, more so than petrol but it burns like diesel and doesn't combust like petrol does.

[bruny 0]

Just removed mine tonight and found they resisted,needed a little gentle persuasion tapping the spanner claw aroud the union before applying to much force and rounding the nut off, perhaps I was just lucky!

[steve @ 0]

Umm got my fronts to tackle on saturday, fun fun fun!I ve had the 288's sat in the garge for 4 months, just been putting it off for the above reasons :lol:

[Jon_vr6 1]

book a week off work and do it just incase i did and very glad that i did in the end!

[Ice White Socks 0]

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 23&t=42467

 

I had this problem- I did it the way this fella told me and it worked great- no probs getting the line of at all. Might help :)

 

Edit- mmm actually not sure there is any new info in this link after all, erm- as you were :lol:

[STORM 2 0]

Just to update this thread - managed to get the brake lines and calipers changed eventually.

I used one of those kitchen blowtorches (sparingly) and the slotted spanner (Halfrauds Professional size 11)

Thanks for all the help guys

 

Mods Lock Away

[poll250 0]

I've got to tackle this in the next week or so for the big 312 conversion, maybe some plus gas on the joint will help?

[poll250 0]

Reeetttt!

 

Ive managed to get one side undone and the new hoses connected, but the nut on the hardline on the passenger side is just not playing!

 

If I cut it just above the nut, and remove the hardline from the abs pump, is there a way of stopping ALL my fluid escaping from the ABS pump?

 

Ive got an eazibleed connected at the moment, should I just disconnect that when I cut the hardline so it doesnt keep pumping fresh fluid in?!