peanut 0 Posted February 10, 2008 Right, im struggling with these bloody things for some bloody reason. The first one i refitted is the reasoon for the earlier failure in the upper tensioner pad. Not sure if it had an airlock or i simply didnt purge it properly. I followed the instructions in the bentley but still managed to balls it up. Bought a new one from vw, pulled the piston out, submerbed both parts in oil and refitted the piston. Torqued it into the back of the head as per the bentley and all was quiet for about 5-10 secs then the chains made almightly racket. Removed the bolt and then pulled out the pluber to find the rubber seal had been piched allowing the psiton to lose pressure. Ive now got a replacement and want to do this properly any ideas? Ta Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted February 10, 2008 Can i pureg it and torque it up with the piston compressed then when the oil pressure builds itll push the piston out and take up the slack. Any ideas muchly appreciated Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted February 10, 2008 Can i pureg it and torque it up with the piston compressed then when the oil pressure builds itll push the piston out and take up the slack. Any ideas muchly appreciated Gav Yes, that's what they tell you to do, iirc. Only risk is that it'll slip a tooth before the pressure builds sufficiently. You could turn the crank by hand a few times to build pressure tho? If you do it with the top cover off you will see if it takes up the slack or not. I imagine it's tricky to pre-set the right extension on the bolt before you fit it, and no doubt that's why they recommend you don't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted February 10, 2008 ok, ill give it a go and hope for the best, cheers. Engines out so ill crank it over by hand to try and reduce the chance of it slipping when i fire it up Thanks again Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 27, 2008 Peanut? Did you solve this in the end? I will be doing the same on my car soon so any poiters would be a great help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted March 27, 2008 The late type bolts don't take a lot of purging, just put it in a tin of oil with the hole as high as possible and pump it a bit. The early ones need some fiddling. Look on VWVortex for a guide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted March 27, 2008 I would love to see someone turn the engine over by hand until it builds oil pressure! :lol: Pull the tensioner apart and drain out any oil,then reassemble it and in the middle of the tensoner you can see small bleed hole,get a needle or something fine to push in there,all you are doing is pushing a spring back allowing any remaining air to escape and you will hear and see the shaft go right back in. Now as the tensioner is done and air free,refit it to the head and torque in if you want,now remove all the plugs,clamp the fuel rail and unplug the coil or coil pack. Spin the engine over and dont worry about chain slipping as its turning over fast with no compression to cause this,you will here the chain flapping for a few seconds until the oil takes up the slack. That all,ive done this for years on many motors and its always worked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 27, 2008 Useful points there james. I've purged the bolt already i was just concerned about getting the tensioner bolt tensioned! As my block is on the floor, and the oil pump has been stripped and rebuilt (ie there is no oil there either) what would you suggest about refilling with oil and manually cranking it with say a 27mm socket on a pneumatic drill? Actually i really want to check it with the rocker cover off so that i can see that the oil is circulating properly through the tappets and around the head, before i go closing everything up. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites