The niggles I've found so far

[boost monkey 0]

I'm just gonna plough in:

 

N/S bonnet pin sticks, and needs someone to wiggle bonnet for it to release although about 5% of the time it will co-operate (this obviously affects me getting access to engine!)

 

TB is all gunged up and takes ages for the revs to drop again and for the switch to be activated for the idle circuit - I think this one is fairly easy as long as ^^^ is fixed.

Speedo is not working at all - not sure about this as it's a hydro box and i'm used to the older normal boxes - affects most MAF readings PLUS MY SPOILER WON'T GO UP!! :(

 

Steering is generally a bit dodgy - ordered some new wishbones and ARB links today which should be in soon, might take it for a toe-in or camber check maybe?

 

Gearchanges are really really notchy - can't easily change gear fast. Really have to yank the stick to get anywhere...ooooooohhhhh, engine mounts? (just occured to me!) - Gearchange is fine in normal driving, so maybe it is a mount thing....

 

So yeah, a combination of the above isn't making it much fun to drive at the mo.... Any ideas?

 

I have NO IDEA about hydraulic gearboxes and such, hence why I'm posting on here and why it's not fixed already. Oh yeah, Russ told me the clutch is new also.

 

ok, sometimes I can't fix stuff.. (i know... :shock: )

[junkie 0]

Has it had the weighted gear shift mod done?

[boost monkey 0]

I don't think so, but when I fix the bonnet pins I'll check!

 

I'm assuming this is the same as the mk2 one, where you replace one of the gear rods with a long weighted rod?

 

actually, isn't it cable change? Oh i'm confused.

[vr6storm 0]

the box is a cable change box

 

the clutch is hydraulic

[boost monkey 0]

Aha.

 

That's strange then, cos aren't cable change boxes supposed to be "sloppier" (for want of a better word) than rod change boxes?

[tonedef 8]

...........when I fix the bonnet pins I'll check!...................

My bonnet used to stick on the left side, tightenning the pull cable cures it.

[weetos 0]

speed sensor on box should have a wire thats blue with white stripe this is the speed reference. it goes from the gearbox to a common block on the fuse box to the top right hand side this should then go off to spoiler module and speedo.

[boost monkey 0]

speed sensor on box should have a wire thats blue with white stripe this is the speed reference. it goes from the gearbox to a common block on the fuse box to the top right hand side this should then go off to spoiler module and speedo.

 

and what does this do, is it the speedo?

 

Will check the wire though, thanks.

[russed99 0]

So your enjoying corrado ownership then jon? For what its worth the spoiler honestly never failed on me once, on the button or automatically. Could it be at all related to the window playing up cos i never once had a problem with that either. I'm sure a man of your abilities can get it sorted pal.

[weetos 0]

and what does this do, is it the speedo?

 

Will check the wire though, thanks.

 

this does the speedo and sends a signal to the spoiler module behind the dash by the light switch.

[boost monkey 0]

So your enjoying corrado ownership then jon? For what its worth the spoiler honestly never failed on me once, on the button or automatically. Could it be at all related to the window playing up cos i never once had a problem with that either. I'm sure a man of your abilities can get it sorted pal.

 

Yeah, it's prob wiring matey. FOund a second alarm behind the dash and a bunch of butchered loom :shock: but i'll rip it all our and re-wire at some point 8)

[boost monkey 0]

and what does this do, is it the speedo?

 

Will check the wire though, thanks.

 

this does the speedo and sends a signal to the spoiler module behind the dash by the light switch.

 

so there's NO speedo cable?

 

if someone can clear this up for me it will save a LOT of time! :lol: :(

[junkie 0]

Depends on the year of car but no there is a gear box sensor

[boost monkey 0]

This is where i really wish I could get engine shots for pointers!!

 

With regards to tightenening bonnet cable...how?

 

Have been out again but can't see where it should be tightened.

[Yandards 0]

This is where i really wish I could get engine shots for pointers!!

 

With regards to tightenening bonnet cable...how?

 

Have been out again but can't see where it should be tightened.

 

Right.

 

Bonnet cable, the bonnet cable is adjusted in the engine bay on the passenger side under the front of the slam pannel. If you follow the bowden cable along the front drivers wing it will emerge under the slam panel just prior to the location hole for the drivers side bonnet pin, keep following this and you will eventually locate a very small and probably rusty bolt and locking collar. As you are a engineering type I am sure you can work out the rest ;) (A new one might be worth ordering as the bolts are very fragile) Also worth lubing and some hard actuation of the bonnet pins - in other words drop the bonnet from some height a few times.

 

Spoiler Mech.

 

Lots of things here, does it work on the switch, is the fuse blown etc. Check for voltage by taking the inside cover panel off the boot hatch and getting a friend to use the manual switch whilst checking for volts on the spoiler motor mech.

 

Gearchange.

 

As previously mentioned box is cable change. If you have a chassis number less than 50 N 006001 then you will not have the weight on the gearobx end of the change mech. This can be fitted with ease and from owning a corrado without this mod and then doing it makes a massive difference to the feel of the change. The next step is to drop the box oil, the original non-synth oil is rubbish and changing it for a good quality synth oil will make a huge difference to the change and improves cold box performance (Blimey!) Redline MTL 90 is the oil of choice for this. Engine mounts could also be knackered as well.

 

Speedo.

 

If you have a digital trip indicator in your speedo instead of a mech one you will have a sender on the gearbox that provides both the ECU and MFA with vehicle speed (and the spoiler too IIRC) have a look on the top of the gearbox for a 2 pin plug.

 

Steering.

 

Again you will have at least a 13 year old sports car now so expecting the wishbones, arb bushes, ball joints, top mounts etc to be in decent condition is just not going to happen. Personally I cant stress enough that everything needs to be done at once or you will just end up wearing the new parts out faster.

[boost monkey 0]

 

Right.

 

Bonnet cable, the bonnet cable is adjusted in the engine bay on the passenger side under the front of the slam pannel. If you follow the bowden cable along the front drivers wing it will emerge under the slam panel just prior to the location hole for the drivers side bonnet pin, keep following this and you will eventually locate a very small and probably rusty bolt and locking collar. As you are a engineering type I am sure you can work out the rest ;) (A new one might be worth ordering as the bolts are very fragile) Also worth lubing and some hard actuation of the bonnet pins - in other words drop the bonnet from some height a few times. Awesome, thanks for the hint. Next time I get it open it will be attacked

 

Spoiler Mech.

 

Lots of things here, does it work on the switch, is the fuse blown etc. Check for voltage by taking the inside cover panel off the boot hatch and getting a friend to use the manual switch whilst checking for volts on the spoiler motor mech. Spoiler works very slowly off the switch, although I only tried it with the engine off, will try again with engine running.

 

Gearchange.

 

As previously mentioned box is cable change. If you have a chassis number less than 50 N 006001 then you will not have the weight on the gearobx end of the change mech. This can be fitted with ease and from owning a corrado without this mod and then doing it makes a massive difference to the feel of the change. The next step is to drop the box oil, the original non-synth oil is rubbish and changing it for a good quality synth oil will make a huge difference to the change and improves cold box performance (Blimey!) Redline MTL 90 is the oil of choice for this. Engine mounts could also be knackered as well. So, it's not likely to be the cable needing adjusting? It never really grinds at all, just doesn't want to go into gear without a hefty shove when driving quick

 

Speedo.

 

If you have a digital trip indicator in your speedo instead of a mech one you will have a sender on the gearbox that provides both the ECU and MFA with vehicle speed (and the spoiler too IIRC) have a look on the top of the gearbox for a 2 pin plug. It's early, so all mech for me. Do raddos still have a cable that goes into the back of the clocks and turns the needle round? Sometimes I can hear a kind of scratchy / scrapey noise from behind the clocks so maybe the speedo has come out?

 

Steering.

 

Again you will have at least a 13 year old sports car now so expecting the wishbones, arb bushes, ball joints, top mounts etc to be in decent condition is just not going to happen. Personally I cant stress enough that everything needs to be done at once or you will just end up wearing the new parts out faster. Good advice. I have wishbones, ARB links and balljoints en route, will order some new top mounts and engine mounts just to be safe... Anything else you can think of?

 

Yan always comes through :lol: :notworthy:

[boost monkey 0]

Can I also be a complete arse and add cold starts to this? It's purely electrical I'm fairly sure.

 

Last couple of days (in the near zero temps) car hasn't been cranking great. We multimetered the battery whilst running and it read around 14.5 volts. Before starting the engine, it reads around 12.5 Volts.

 

The battery earth is good now, so could this be a wiring or an alternator prob? Maybe the battery needs some distilled water?

 

This might be linked: the strength of my headlights and dash lights fluctuates (kinda flickers a bit)... worn alternator brushes?

 

*hides*

[boost monkey 0]

^^^ Yeah, been out again tonight and it barely turned over although did catch on the second try.

 

any help appreciated!

[Yandards 0]

 

Spoiler Mech.

 

If the speedo cable is not working the spoiler control unit will not get a signal - sorry thought about this when posting originally but forgot to post it up. Deploy the spoiler and stick some silicon lube on the arms and the rubber seal.

 

Gearchange.

 

Go with checking the gearbox weight mod, have a search on here it has been covered before - if you have a mech trip indicator on your speedo then it will defo not have it unless its been retro fitted. Still available from VAG for around £35 all in.

 

Speedo.

 

Yes, same style fitment as the mk 2 Golf clocks. Take the black inner instrument surround off and then remove the plastic cover from the front of the instrument cluster, this will enable you to tilt the cluster forwards (2 x bolts to be removed) without scratching the plastic. (As per the VAG workshop manual)

 

Steering.

 

Again you will have at least a 13 year old sports car now so expecting the wishbones, arb bushes, ball joints, top mounts etc to be in decent condition is just not going to happen. Personally I cant stress enough that everything needs to be done at once or you will just end up wearing the new parts out faster. Good advice. I have wishbones, ARB links and balljoints en route, will order some new top mounts and engine mounts just to be safe... Anything else you can think of?

 

Yan always comes through :lol: :notworthy:

 

Cheers :)

[boost monkey 0]

Spoiler mech works fine up and down (bit slower on down?) when engine running, and the battery drain seemed to be the interior light being left on.

 

I'm an arse :/

[dirtytorque 0]

hint.

 

a set of mole-grips make tightening the bonnet release cable much easier.

[boost monkey 0]

Thanks DT, we did that yesterday and the thing works good now.

 

PAS rack still leaking, but when I topped it up I had a couple of hours of light steering! The whole thing is rusted, so I'm gonna source a new one and stick it on when I do arbs I think.

[boost monkey 0]

Redline MTL 90 is the oil of choice for this.

 

I can find Redline MTL, and Redline MT-90 but not MTL-90?

[boost monkey 0]

Where does the MAF take it's MPG readings from, I'm guessing it's not off the analog speedo cable?

[Yandards 0]

Where does the MAF take it's MPG readings from, I'm guessing it's not off the analog speedo cable?

 

It does as the cluster also outputs a speed signal to the spolier control module. (Sorry that's not too clear - the MFA does get its speed signal from the analogue speedo)