was8v 0 Posted April 22, 2008 On taking up drive forwards I get a rattly clunk, then again on taking up drive in reverse. If I let the clutch up quickly from 1st to 2nd I get a clunk. Occaisionally get a rattle over rough surfaces and occaisional clunky rattly noise at low speed (crawling 1st gear). Noise seems to come from drivers side wheel only at low speeds. No detectable play in wheel bearing. No detectable play in outer CV (no clicking noise on full lock). Inner CV appears to have a little play - when rotating drive shaft with wheel off clicky rattly noise comes from the area of the drivers side inner cv. I've checked all suspension bolts are tight, wishbone bushes are past their best. Does this sound like an inner CV or am I blinkered? Could it be the diff? It must be something in the final drive? Any help appreciated before I fit a new inner CV. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted April 22, 2008 Mines exactly the same and i suspected and was also told the inner joint is on its way out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 22, 2008 Thanks, looks like I'll order one tomorrow. Just been out in the car and its getting worse: At low speed Under braking its silent above around 20mph its silent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted April 22, 2008 Get it sorted before it goes completly mate. My GF's cv joint went completly and left us stranded! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 24, 2008 Right o got my CV today. A GKN from GSF (44 ex vat). In the kit there are no ties to hold the new boot onto the axle! Suerly thats not right? They should supply those? Also there is no circlip? theres 2 conical bent washers, one serrated on the inside and one not? I'm going to have to reuse the circlip?! Very odd being incomplete! GRRR! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted April 24, 2008 Right o got my CV today. A GKN from GSF (44 ex vat). In the kit there are no ties to hold the new boot onto the axle! Suerly thats not right? They should supply those? Also there is no circlip? theres 2 conical bent washers, one serrated on the inside and one not? I'm going to have to reuse the circlip?! Very odd being incomplete! GRRR! Yes that is definitely an Inner CV problem. You shouldn't be able to rotate a driveshaft AT ALL by hand, so if you can feel play and if there is a sound (like yours) then it is definitely going. and no, you don't get a tie to hold the boot to the axle/driveshaft. It doesn't need one, that rubber is a really tight fit (which you will find out soon enough) Do you mean the circlip on the very end of the driveshaft which keeps the Inner CV from slipping off when the shaft is not connected to the diff cup? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 24, 2008 AAARGH Got the old inner CV out without removing the hub - grease was all dried up. Get the new one on and HOW the hell can I get circlip on? it doesn't go on far enough AAAARGH! So then I decide to undo the hub nut to remove the whole driveshaft so i can carry on off the car and try and get the circlip on. Hub nut comes off, does the drive shaft want to come out of the hub NO! I smacked it with a lump hammer and wood to protect it, I knocked 7 bells out of it: IT ISNT SHIFTING So then i use a metal drift, and I dmage the thread on the end. Well that was my evening 6pm til 10.30 pm and it still ain't fixed. Looks like i'll need to buy an outer cv to replace thread now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted April 24, 2008 plusgas for the win mate, it's the ultimate penetrant for stuck fittings like that. When you were hitting it are you sure the other end wasn't catching on anything? fitting the circlip is a biatch, you need to slide the inner CV boot a long way down the shaft, fit the clip and then slide the boot up again. hth, Jon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 25, 2008 and no, you don't get a tie to hold the boot to the axle/driveshaft. It doesn't need one, that rubber is a really tight fit (which you will find out soon enough) Yeah you're right its not needed I hadn't actually looked at it before. Do you mean the circlip on the very end of the driveshaft which keeps the Inner CV from slipping off when the shaft is not connected to the diff cup? Yeah I didn't get an new one and I can't get the old one back on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 27, 2008 Righto the hell is over! Fr a job thats supposed to take 2.5 hrs it took me around 9hrs! heres a compressed version of my inner CV journey: - drive over pit and jack front end (support with stands) and remove wheel - Undo 6 spline bolts holding drive shaft to gearbox (easy) - find out I can't drop the driveshaft and cv down as theres no room between sump and wishbone - undo balljoint to give me some room - manage to get old inner CV off drive shaft and mount new one - find it impossible to get circlip back on whilst under car - put balljoint back and drop car on wheels - use a breaker bar plus long metal pole to undo hub nut - jack back up - remove wheel again and hub nut - tap the hub end of drive shaft to remove - knock the LIVING DAYLIGHTS out of it with a lump hammer (using a variety of wooden bits to protect thread) - resort to smaking it with a metal drift and lump hammer - eventually (due to the amount of loctite VW used at the factory) free off the end of driveshaft - undo balljoint again and withdraw the shaft from splined hub - thread the driveshaft down near gearbox end - mount driveshaft in vice - finally get the circlip fitted to the end of the inner cv (use a 30mm socket to bash it down) - find out because you bashed the crap out of the end of the threaded section of the driveshaft it hass "Belled" out and nut wont go back on - use a grinder to remove the belled first 2mm of the thread - use a thread file to clean up the end of the thread - reinstall the drive shaft in position and into hub - do up the 6 spline inner cv bolts (grease the cv up first) - replace the balljoint with a new one as old was looking tired - repalce hub nut - drop the car on wheels - tighen the hub nut with big metal bar extension drive off noise and clunk free! The old inner CV was original i think and its proximity to the exhaust had turned the grease to a stiff paste. Not a great design but it lasted 110k miles so adequate! Main points to note: - YOU CAN'T DO THE INNER CV ON A VR WITH THE DRIVESHAFT ON THE CAR - save yourself time and take it off - THE HUB END MAY BE STUCK FAST WITH LOCTITE! especially if its never been out before. - Would be better to use a press or puller to get it out than a lump hammer. If its been off before it will probs drop out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
was8v 0 Posted April 27, 2008 You shouldn't be able to rotate a driveshaft AT ALL by hand Just to clarify - I assume you meant you shouldn't be able to turn the shaft with the wheels on the ground. With the wheel off the ground you can easily turn the driveshaft while getting the 6 spline bolts out of the inner cv. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted April 27, 2008 You shouldn't be able to rotate a driveshaft AT ALL by hand Just to clarify - I assume you meant you shouldn't be able to turn the shaft with the wheels on the ground. With the wheel off the ground you can easily turn the driveshaft while getting the 6 spline bolts out of the inner cv. Yeah, that's what I meant. Sorry, didn't even bother mentioning that as it's a no brainer! If you can't turn the driveshaft by hand when the wheel's off then something is fooked! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
