Help, G60 not firing up *still not fixed, SNS chip faulty?*

[LisaK 0]

Right, I've noticed the car not running right since Friday morning - the oil temp would normally sit at around 108 whilst doing 75-80mph but on Friday, it shot up to 116 and even when I backed off to 60 the oil temp fluctuated between 114 and 116 (the water temp was still normal. This is definitely not normal for my G.

 

On Saturday morning when I started the car, the revs shot up higher than normal, dipped down lower then normal and then sat at the usual cold start of around 1000rpm and did the same when I had to move my car on Saturday evening. I then didn't touch the G til Sunday night (around 9pm), I started the car but it wouldn't fire up. I tried a couple of times to turn it over but stopped as I didn't want to flood the engine. I checked the fuel lines and pressurised fuel spurted out, the HT leads and plugs are barely 9 months old and even if it was those, the car would attempt to fire up surely? I checked the dizzy cap and rotary arm and it was a wee bit corroded so I cleaned some of the corrosion off both arm and conductors and tried to fire up the car again to no avail :( I did notice a really tiny bit of oil leakage from plug no.2 - would that make the car not fire up at all? I've also checked the fuses and they seem all intact.

 

I'm currently driving around in a Mk3 Supra TT and as lovely as it is to drive, I really need to find out what's wrong with my G. I've tried to fiddle with the basics to no avail. Any ideas what could be wrong or what I can try fixing before I have to trailer it to my mechanic? :(

[Supercharged 2]

So it's turning over ok and sounds like battery / starter are fine??

 

Checked fuses?

 

You need to check ignition switch, both relays, fuel pump, BTS and cam timing...

 

If you think your not getting spark then look at hall sender (on dizzy), coil and king lead

 

Sorry if thats a bit vague but hopefully gives you a few things to look at /try...

 

Have you got home start cover at all? - if so the AA are good at diagnosing problems like this and will usually trace the fault for you!

[LisaK 0]

Thanks for the suggestions :)

 

Unfortunately no AA cover or alike, though I know I should have owning a bloody Corrado!

 

Yep, battery and starter seem fine. I forgot to check the relays whilst I was under the dash so I'll do that later. I was thinking it may be the coil but is it a case of having to buy a new one to know whether it's FUBARd or are there any signs on the part that it'll be dead? Same as for the hall sender? Yeah, I know I'm a novice when it comes to engines but I'm learning slowly :)

[flusted 0]

first thing id do is remove the coil lead from dizzy, place near metal, then crank engine and look for spark from lead to metal

[LisaK 0]

Good idea - was going to try something along those lines that last night but trying to work under torchlight I didn't trust me not to electrocute myself :lol:

 

 

Any other suggestions so I can rule out as many possibilities as poss?

[LisaK 0]

Ok, the car has spark (plugs were a bit black though) and there's definitely fuel getting through.

 

What are the symptoms of a faulty ignition switch and what does it do exactly?

 

Anything else I can try before I start pulling my hair out?

[dirtytorque 0]

Ok, the car has spark (plugs were a bit black though) and there's definitely fuel getting through.

 

What are the symptoms of a faulty ignition switch and what does it do exactly?

 

Anything else I can try before I start pulling my hair out?

 

your dash lights are coming on and the engine is turning over,the only other thing to check is that there is 12 volts going to the + side of the coil.

If there is then I personally don't think it is the ignition switch.

Do you know a mechanic,or someone with a timing light?

What i'm getting at is that someone could check that you are getting a spark with one of these.

When you turn the ignition on can you here the fuel pump priming briefly?

 

Oh and one last thing.

Pls be careful disconnecting pressurized fuel lines. :shock:

 

Good luck.

[LisaK 0]

Thanks for the concern :)

 

Right, theres definitely spark and theres definitely fuel getting into the cylinder block. I can hear the pump priming and it sounds like the car wants to fire up but it just wont.

 

My mate suggested it could be something to do with the timing being totally out and wants to know the advances and retards of the distributor and what kind of dizzy it is, mech or spring-loaded (as I have no idea!)?

[LisaK 0]

Well, its all sorted hopefully!

You know I said that fuel was getting in to the cylinder block? Well... it turns out that TOO much fuel was going in - all I did was move my car 10 yards to another space and I guess that was all it needed to flood it. A good clean up of the plugs and a few plunges of the throttle got the thing started and kept the revs up for about 30secs to burn the excess fuel. I feel a bit stupid but at least it was nothing serious (this time). Thanks for the suggestions, guys, they were appreciated :)

[LisaK 0]

Well it turns out I'm not as stupid as I first thought as the cylinders are in constant state of flooding - no amount of spark cleaning will make it fire up :( I had to result to removing the fuel pump fuse, turn the car over and then plug the fuse back in to avoid further flooding and actually get the engine to fire.

 

I had a look at the blue temp sender again and it seems to be working fine, i.e. revs drop down really low when unplugged and back up to normal idle when plugged back in but I'll be picking a new one up this afternoon from GSF just in case. I managed to limp the car down to my mechanics yesterday - they checked all the fuel pressures and they are absolutely fine and they stuck a diagnostic on it but they aren't getting error codes up, just weird flashes which indicated to them that maybe something "foreign" was creating the fault.

 

They asked if my car was chipped and it is, an SNS chip. Does anyone know if a faulty SNS chip makes the ecu want to constantly pump ridiculous amounts of fuel in??

[W3RKD 0]

Check your earth's it sound like the ecu is not controlling the injectors properly the ecu braks the live to the injectors to make them pulse. your's sound static ie open all the time.

[coolrado 0]

the G60 ECU doesn't put out diagnostic codes, although some ECU manuals (including haynes) say it does, but the pin that is meant to output the codes is not connected, if you have ABS the codes can be read from that but not the engine, the only way i have seen diagnostics being used on a G60 is when multiple connectors where used to connect to different sensors so not actually reading the ECU.

 

are you sure all the HT leads dizzy and coil are ok and its not just a lack of good spark causing the unburned fuel in the cylinders?

[LisaK 0]

the G60 ECU doesn't put out diagnostic codes, although some ECU manuals (including haynes) say it does, but the pin that is meant to output the codes is not connected, if you have ABS the codes can be read from that but not the engine, the only way i have seen diagnostics being used on a G60 is when multiple connectors where used to connect to different sensors so not actually reading the ECU.

 

are you sure all the HT leads dizzy and coil are ok and its not just a lack of good spark causing the unburned fuel in the cylinders?

Oh so the diagnostic flashes are completely irrelevant in this case? That's good to know it's hopefully nothing expensive then!

 

I am sure the HT leads, dizzy and coil are OK - I've managed to fire it nearly every time by using the same procedure of removing the fuel pump fuse, turning the car over (which instantly, if a bit lumpy, fires up) and in turn burns the excess fuel in the cylinders without pumping more in and flooding it. I then plug the fuel pump fuse back in and the car idles OK but STINKS of excess fuel from the exhaust and drives like absolute sh*t, hardly any acceleration at all. If the plugs, leads and dizzy were not sparking well, the car still wouldn't fire up during that procedure I shouldn't think.

 

Check your earth's it sound like the ecu is not controlling the injectors properly the ecu braks the live to the injectors to make them pulse. your's sound static ie open all the time.

Oooh, thanks :D but how do I "check" the earths?

[Riley 0]

Have you tried swapping the connector on the blue temp sender over to the black one?

 

I know that my g60 won't start with the blue temp sender disconnected, so i wonder if yours has gone faulty with no through connection at all.

 

Good luck...G60's are the dogs nackers at having the stupidest problems.

 

Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

also check the little vac hose between the fuel pressure reg and the inlet manifold is not perished with any holes etc.

 

:salute:

[LisaK 0]

Car is fixed now, thanks for all your advice :)

 

All I'm going to say is that the little f**ker of a blue temp sensor has a lot to answer for :bad-words:

[Jim 2]

Another classic G60 bad running / not starting culprit rears its head! Lost count of how often the blue temp sender has been to blame. Definately buy VW genuine ones - GSF ones are quite often duff out of the box, and typically don't last that long!

[LisaK 0]

I bought a genuine VW one as I'd heard bad things about the GSF ones. Time to get the G remapped soon and hopefully it'll be running sweet-as again :)

[Riley 0]

Nice one :)

 

Neil.