smithy220 0 Posted May 21, 2008 putting together a kit and wondering what type of oil was best to use,im sure i remember someone using a machine oil due to higher viscosity or am i talking bollox :cuckoo: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 21, 2008 I've got regular engine oil in my stand-alone, 10W/40 I think. If you are concerned you could use a thinner grade, given that it won't be heated directly by the engine, so will tend to be cooler and thicker than 'normal'. Reckon the stand-alone sump gets no hotter than 60C most of the time, indirectly heated by the charger compressing the air and the conducted heat to the charger from the block. IMHO, the major advantages of a stand-alone feed are constant oil pressure to the charger (no longer varies with rpm) and clean oil with no silt or cr@p in it! After about 9 months, my stand-alone oil still looks brand new 8) Not sure that you need any special grade of oil for it, tbh. Hope that helps :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 21, 2008 I've got regular engine oil in my stand-alone, 10W/40 I think. If you are concerned you could use a thinner grade, given that it won't be heated directly by the engine, so will tend to be cooler and thicker than 'normal'. Reckon the stand-alone sump gets no hotter than 60C most of the time, indirectly heated by the charger compressing the air and the conducted heat to the charger from the block. IMHO, the major advantages of a stand-alone feed are constant oil pressure to the charger (no longer varies with rpm) and clean oil with no silt or cr@p in it! After about 9 months, my stand-alone oil still looks brand new 8) Not sure that you need any special grade of oil for it, tbh. Hope that helps :wink: have you got any pics of your setup P'son ? How much did it cost? was it easy to implement? :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 21, 2008 Pics as requested (can also be found on my Member's Gallery page - apologies for the thread hijack!): passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfStand-alone sump.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfStand-alone filter.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfStand-alone pump.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] Stand-alone return.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] This was all fitted by Steve at Pitstop Developments. Apparently I have 0W30 oil in there at the moment, according to the notes I made when the stand-alone system was fitted. Total cost was in the region of £270 I think, although a fair bit of that was labour in fabricating the bracket etc. It wasn't hard to do, although you have to make sure that you have the right junctions to go into the charger's oil inlet and outlet, plenty of braided hose, and the right tools to make up the hoses to length. It has made a big difference in dropping the temp of the charger :clap: and to my general peace of mind that it is still getting adequate and reliable lubrication, especially as I am now on a 68mm pulley. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted May 22, 2008 I've always liked the concept of the standalone oil supply for the charger (especially as the oil pressure is related to revs on the normal system), but was wondering if the ambient temp in the engine bay eventaully caused the temp of the oil to rise. Sounds as though the temp does creep up in use, but I presume there is nothing to stop you from using a small Mocal to keep the temp more tightly controlled. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 22, 2008 The stand-alone oil temp increasing seems to be mainly from the block heating the charger bracket, which heats the charger itself :brickwall: Of course, if you are running one bar of boost you are doubling the temperature of the air in the charger as it is compressed, so that will also have an effect, but the oil needs to have a little warmth (depending on the grade used) to give its best lubrication, so a Mocal would probably be overkill on the stand-alone (although probably very welcome on the engine supply) :) Deleting the boost recirculation would help with keeping the air in the charger cooler (and hence the oil), but the biggest culprit, and hardest to isolate, is the conduction from the block :roll: I suppose a phenolic or ceramic replacement bracket would work, but it would need to be able to take the strain from the pulley and weight of the charger... :scratch: Because the sump and braided lines are away from the block and a nice silver colour, they don't seem to suffer from heat radiation/convection in the engine bay in general. :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted May 22, 2008 One thing to bear in mind though will be convective heating in the bay as well as conductive (an dodn;t get me wrong - not trying to pick holes in the standalone system as it stands - strikes me as a great thing to do for extending the lifetime of the charger). When I open my bonnet after a long journey I am greeted with a blast of hot air. Just being there in hot air will also have the effect of heating the charger (and with hot recirculating boost coming back through it as well), but I agree, conductive heating will be the main cause. Personally I'm sure there would still be a benefit from having a cooled oil line to the charger, but then choose oil suitable for running at these lower temperatures - anything to lower inlet temps should be good in theory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 22, 2008 anything to lower inlet temps should be good in theory. I'm all for that! :clap: :salute: :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 22, 2008 smith220 you can't really go wrng using std engine oil,afrer all thats what the charger would get normally and was designed to work off.. cheers for your input gents. p'son I'll head over to your thread for a nose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smithy220 0 Posted May 23, 2008 smith220 you can't really go wrng using std engine oil,afrer all thats what the charger would get normally and was designed to work off.. cheers for your input gents. p'son I'll head over to your thread for a nose. thanks for the info DT so far I've got the facet pump and will be making a tank and will need to get some more braided hose and in line filter for the tank.i was also considering fitting a cooling rad for the system i think you may be correct about the engine oil as vag saw it fit for purpose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 23, 2008 i was also considering fitting a cooling rad for the system i think you may be correct about the engine oil as vag saw it fit for purpose. Just had a minor brainwave - the capacity of my stand-alone sump is about 500ml, and the rest of the pipework a little less, so instead of having a sump and a cooler, you could just fit the cooler, as it will have an internal capacity of about 1/2 litre, no? If that seems a bit risky (don't know why though :shrug: ) you could just pop some vanes/heatsink onto the sump itself (especially if it is more rectangular than mine), and mount it somewhere it will get some coolish airflow... Would be cheaper than a cooler, and you may only want 10-15C of cooling anyway, to keep the oil at a decent operating temperature and reduce internal frictional resistance in the charger? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smithy220 0 Posted May 24, 2008 i was also considering fitting a cooling rad for the system i think you may be correct about the engine oil as vag saw it fit for purpose. Just had a minor brainwave - the capacity of my stand-alone sump is about 500ml, and the rest of the pipework a little less, so instead of having a sump and a cooler, you could just fit the cooler, as it will have an internal capacity of about 1/2 litre, no? If that seems a bit risky (don't know why though :shrug: ) you could just pop some vanes/heatsink onto the sump itself (especially if it is more rectangular than mine), and mount it somewhere it will get some coolish airflow... Would be cheaper than a cooler, and you may only want 10-15C of cooling anyway, to keep the oil at a decent operating temperature and reduce internal frictional resistance in the charger? i love it when a plan comes together :) deffo sticking with a oil reservoir as my cooler is a power steering cooler from a Nissan so its smaller than the usual 5 row mocal,should be ideal for the job.just need to free up funds for braided lines and a decent pre pump filter although im wondering is there any reason i couldn't use a plastic in line petrol filter as i have a few knocking about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProdigalSon 1 Posted May 24, 2008 i love it when a plan comes together :) deffo sticking with a oil reservoir as my cooler is a power steering cooler from a Nissan so its smaller than the usual 5 row mocal,should be ideal for the job.just need to free up funds for braided lines and a decent pre pump filter although im wondering is there any reason i couldn't use a plastic in line petrol filter as i have a few knocking about. Doubt a plastic filter would cause problems... pretty sure that's what I have, if I recall correctly. :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites