JMC

Still available. Make me an offer, you may be surprised as I'd like to see this get used.

Bump.

Going through the last of my parts from my G60 and am putting the nitrous setup up for sale I had planned to use on it. All brand new in box, in effect a complete single point injection race spec nitrous system from Wizards of Nos. Includes, 5lb bottle, bottle brackets, fitting kit, pipework, N2O solenoid, X-10 solenoids, throttle microswitch, arming switch, injector, bottle heater, N2O pressure transducer, Maxextreme race spec progressive controller, ignition delay unit. I'm guessing about £2000 if bought new today. I'm offering this for £800 ONO. I'd prefer collection (based near J13 M25), but can look into shipping if needed.

Ah, does it look like a brass fitting about 1cm diameter where a hose should go? If so I think its part the pipework for the carbon canister. Most g60s have now had this removed. If yours has then put a hose over it with a bolt in the end to just seal it off.

Yep, 10w40 from the dealers is the best oil for a G60.

Absolutely no problem using a G60 as a daily driver - I did for 10 years. As with all cars they're fine as long as they are maintained. A small amount of work and they are as fast as a VR.

I'm guessing triggered by the recent Wheeler Dealers programme. http://home.bt.com/lifestyle/motoring/motoring-features/everyday-classic-volkswagen-corrado-the-underrated-coup-thats-coming-good-11364011636323 Not entirely accurate with all of it, but a reasonable article. Good thing is they think they're worth about 6k now....

Sorry mate, it's so long since I did mine, that I really couldn't tell you in detail without seeing the wiring, but yes, that big yellow resistor in the passenger wing is what the instructions are refering to. What I can't remember is whether those wires then need joining together again without the resistor to make it work properly.

The instructions for the Rayne loom say to remove the dim dip resistor - did you do that, as you mentioned in your first post that you didn't disable the dim-dip resistor? There is often a problem with the aftermarket looms with the contacts on the relays getting corrosion and not working. I ended up putting mine in a plastic bag and tucking them up near where the dim dip was. Even with that I needed the change the relays after a couple of years due to corrosion. With relays though it'll be 'work' or 'not work', not 'dim'.

Don't worry about your bad english - it's not that bad. You don't mention though whether you are in Britain, and if you are where you are based? There are a few people around who are G60 experts, or are experienced with G60's - John Mitchell Racing, Only Charged Dubs, Jabbasport, Stealth Racing for example. If you are in the UK and near one of these guys, it would be best to go to them to have what you have got checked over, to see what's usable and what's scrap. In fact I think Only Charged Dubs are agents for the people that make the aluminium displacers, so should have some experience of them. Ideally you want your spare supercharger to be set up the same as the one you are running. If they are different, then they will produce different boost pressures at different rpm's and the map you have in your ECU wont be fuelling properly. I have 2 g laders - one in the car and one as a spare. They are both the same - stage 4, and with the same flow work, and both product the same boost pressure so I can use them interchangably.

One of the contributing factors to that difference are the gear box ratios. In the VR you can hit 60 in 2nd, in a standard G60 box you need to change to 3rd. That's one of the reasons those of use with modifided G60s have tweaked our gearboxes too :) Nice to see the Wheeler Dealer programme - very interesting, and I'm glad I went down the route of just removing the sunroof (and metal roof) now - fixing it looks like a right nightmare :lol:

Yeah it didn't seem right, lowering the price as much as I did. I've been pleasantly surprised by how little attention it needs when in storage - disconnect the battery and come back to it 3 months later and it starts and runs fine. The only slight issue is some of the switches need operating a few times before they run ok, but I'm guessing that's just a little surface corrosion on the copper from not being used. And of course if the lottery win comes through it'll get its own garage somewhere.

Well I did the princely sum of 170 miles this year, and that included 100 miles round trip for my MOT to my regular place. However having done the MOT today and driven down to the south coast and back I've decided I can't part with it for now, so am withdrawing it from sale. It's the effortless overtaking, the razor sharp handling, the noise (oh the noise) and the overall driving feel I know I'd miss so much, and given what went into it, I'd never find another one in similar condition. The MOT guy commented on the excellent condition and it sailed through again with no issues and said I'd be mad to sell it, and he's right.