Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
a98pmalcolm

after washing engine G60

Recommended Posts

hay guys. just a quick question if any 1 knows the answer or has simler experiances. every few months i like to hose down the engine bay of my G60, makes it nice and clean and keeps in in the condition that i spent ££££ on making it look like its come out the show room!

 

But when i drive off and give it a test drive it starts to spluter when the throtle opens up, but when i put my foot rite down when the throtle is on full it sounds like the engine turns completly off so take my foot off the accelarator and it sonds like its running again!

 

Bit wierd but ualy it all drys up by the next day and all is well.

 

Just wonderng if any1 knows y so im a bit more clued up on what is happening

 

Thanks

 

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're spraying water all over your engine electrics and wondering why it's not quite performing after that?

 

Either keep the water away or start bagging up the important parts if you insist on doing it.

 

All IMHO - no experience but sorta based on common sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my guess would be water in the closed throttle switch, give it a squirt of WD40 and it should be fine, I take mine down to the tesco jet wash and do my engine bay every couple of months and had the same problem, it's fine once it's dried out or had a squirt of WD40.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well coolrado has the idea as many people do! so when we turn up to shows our engine bays are spotless! noting is fooked ether it always drys up and runs perfect! just wanted a bit more inside knolage on the G60's. more i know the better! These are the results of a good clean up! except i got a BBM charger now!...

 

image465bo3.th.jpgthpix.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Water will seep down into the spark plug holes and cause the spark plugs/leads to short circuit.

Best thing to do after an engine wash is to take each spark plug out and let the water drain into the cylinders.

Then replace the plugs and start the engine to evaporate the water from the cylinders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or leave it out in the sun to dry out, before spraying WD40 onto the ignition system.

 

I'd try to keep the alternator, starter motor, dizzy and any sensors dry though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haha cheers waynos, yer what u need to do is blank off the boost return coming from the inlet manifold then the dump valve u fit will be LOUD! BUT u will need one with a very soft spring so it can release boost during idle! this is a Baily DV34 and its incrediabley loud and sounds awsome bro! u gotta do it u will love it! ok thanks for the tips Valerian and Toad :) its nice to get tips and help from VW owners!

 

Thanks Guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh there is a well good way of doin it if u dant wanna hose it down, i do it after hosing it down anyway. use disk brake cleaner! spray it in the cloth, and gently wipe down, takes oil and grime clean off and u only need to use 1/4 of the amount of elbow grease...lol ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no mate im pretty sure the DV34 valve comes like that! its not adjuastable! a motorsport company had to take my monza one off coz it couldnt work properly coz the spring was to hard! the DV36 looks the same but is designed for those big 400+BHP cars so the spring with will be alot harder so make sure its the DV34, im getting my valve reported and polished so when i got it running nicer i will get a vid for u bro! and let u know!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dump valves are a waste of time on G chargers imo. Boost return valve does a much better job as its what it was designed for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yer the dump valve isnt really needed! its really more for show, and i know it sound silly. but there will be a small amount of boost lost through that valve that opens and closes on teh inlet manifold so it can help a little, and with out the boost return it mean no oil mist in the charger and most importantly NO HOT AIR! BBM say but removing the boost return pipe, blank off the charger and run the ISV reroute kit, thats a 10BHP increase!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...