2.0 into 1.8?

[theWhippet 0]

Hey Guys,

 

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't seem to find it :|

 

I'm looking to get my engine rebuilt and I am just wondering if the 2.0 16v (9a) will fit straight into my current drive 1.8 (KR). Or, is there anything else I need to change in order to go this route.

 

Also, has anyone got any ideas why the performance figures in the Wiki are so different for these two engines even though they both have the same bhp (136bhp) i.e.

 

1.8 16v - Top Speed 131mph (211kph) Acceleration 0-60mph in 8.7 seconds

2.0 16v - Top Speed 126mph (203kph) Acceleration 0-60mph in 10.2 seconds

 

Is it down to the head (the KR seems to peak at higher revs) or is it something like gearing?

 

Cheers Ben

[will.s 0]

its something to do with bigger inlet and smaller outlets on the head and yes also the cams.

im currently swopping the bottom end for a 2.0l 16v (ABF or 9A) and keeping the 1.8l KR cams and head,

apparently you gain 180bhp+ from that mod.

 

hope this helps

will

[theWhippet 0]

Ah cool! Sounds like a plan - 180bhp sounds inviting! Thanks for the tip :D Thought that it was strange that the figures are so different - but it all makes sense now.

 

So if I was gonna put a 2.0 into my car it would just fit/work straight away right?

 

I'm converting my old daily drive to a dedicated trackday car so I wanna get a fully rebuilt lump just so I can be sure thats its fairly solid and ready for some abuse.

 

Also, I'm thinking that a 2.0 would be nice to have just in case I decide to go turbo at some point, as I'm told the 2.0 will be better for less lag when going turbo (although this probably won't be anytime soon if I'm honest :D).

[colinstubbs 0]

apparently you gain 180bhp+ from that mod.

:shock: :shock:

 

A 180bhp GAIN really would be a Mod and a half!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

That said, a bigger bottom end is a good move! 8)

[davidwort 0]

there's not much in it TBH

the 1.8 revs higher and has lower gearing, which makes it a little quicker to 60, the 2L in standard form has a much flatter torque curve but runs out of steam at lower revs, but both are around 9 secs 0-60 in reality, the 2L should do slightly better in gear acceleration because it has a little more torque.

Having a higher lift (as standard) intake cam makes the 1.8 have peak power at slightly higher revs,

fit a P&P head on a 2L bottom end and with the right tuning it will make around 160-170bhp and around 145 lb/ft.

For 180 bhp you'd really need a very well balanced 2L engine set up perfectly on KR cams or aftermarket cams, anything over 180bhp and you're looking at raising the rev limit and running it on very lumpy cams, making the power very peaky, OK in a mk2 but not really suited to the heavier Corrado.

to fit a 2L bottom end to a 1.8 is easy, all you need is the block and everything off the 1.8 bolts straight up.

[theWhippet 0]

I think I will go 2 litre then. Just in case I go turbo at a later date.

 

As a matter of interest, have you guys got any idea about the amount of power output I am likely to get (with enough work and a decent tuner) from a n/a 2 litre Corrado?

 

This car will be a dedicated track car and therefore, I'm not too worried about how well it drives on the road as it will be spending most of its life high up the rev range on track.

 

Cheers Ben

[boost monkey 0]

David's right, I think if you massively changed the intake system (carbs/ throttle bodies) then you would get a little past 180 perhaps but it's an expensive way of doing it: the carbs will be fuel hungry and the TBs will need a lot of map work to get running spot on.

[davidwort 0]

I think I will go 2 litre then. Just in case I go turbo at a later date.

 

 

If you want to go turbo I believe the mk3 2.0 16v (ABF code) engine block is the best, it's a cm or two taller than the 9A (passat and corrado block) but is the same capacity, its has longer connecting rods (giving a better rod to crank angle?) and was designed as a high revving 2L 16v from the start (the 9A red lines at 6,500 unlike the KR 7,200, the ABF is somewhere in between), but I'd imagine you'd still need to invest in some low compression pistons £££

[theWhippet 0]

Ah right, ABF sounds good... I like the idea of a higher reving engine :D

 

As anyone on here ever got a rebuilt lump before? I was under the impression that I would be able to get a rebuilt lump for aroound £400 quid (possibily optimistic?) as I am sure I read that you can get them for this price somewhere. However, I have just got a quote from Car Engines Ltd for a rebuilt 9a for £950 + VAT :(. Seems a little much to me.

[davidwort 0]

it depends what you mean by rebuilt, the pistons rods and crank are pretty expensive items, a 2L crank alone used to be near a grand from VW!

 

I'd get a reasonable looking (bores) second hand lump and find someone local to flick hone it and put new shells and rings in, that should keep the cost down.

[horney 0]

Best option is to throw in an abf out of a MKII GTI and run it on the K-Jet set up already in your Rado. Can be done in a day and without the cat should easily push 160bhp. Get a 4 branch manifold on there and P&P head and you can be looking at 180bhp +.

 

Nick

[theWhippet 0]

hmmmmm options options options :D

 

Well the ABF does sound good. The main reason I want to go for a full rebuild is because as its going to be a track based car and I just figured that it would be a good base to start from (reliable and putting out half decent power).

 

I did consider just running the KR with an uprated head for the time being but I reckon that it must have lost loads of horses by now (done over 170,000). Also I'm not sure how long that it will last on track - lol!

 

Cars hey... who'd have em :grin:

[colinstubbs 0]

I reckon that it must have lost loads of horses by now (done over 170,000).

 

Not necessarily, mine clocked 170,000 miles 2 years ago and developed 133.6 bhp on a new rig that gave accurate figures rather than some of those optimistic 'pub boast' read-outs!!!!! It's standard apart from Milltek exhaust, Jetex filter and a Weber Firebreather throttle body.