Crackling Noise under load on G60

[psiburr 0]

could it just be the exhaust manifold blowing ? new gasket maybe ? mine made a sort of crackling/rasping sound only under load before replacing

[Richardshoes 0]

hi dude.

Time it by ear? :cuckoo:

Which timing light did you buy?

I use the Gunson advance timing light... it's quite nice.

Number 1 plug will be the one nearest the timing belt.

On the flywheel will be two marks - one will have a straight line and a 0 - this is TDC. The other will just be a line - this is 6DEG BTDC.

Engine temp = min 80deg

blue temp sender disconnected.

(Check timing at 2000 and 2500)

Fit inductive pick up to HT lead 1 - away from any other leads that could interfere with pick up.

Attach +- connections

Remove bung from bell housing in gear box

Assuming you have an advance light - just set it at zero and time to the 6DEGBTDC mark this will yield correct timing... alternatively time to TDC mark and rotate setting of light to 6degBTDC.

If the timing is out you'll need to loosen the Distributor clamp... then just rotate with one hand while shining your light at the flywheel until desired setting is reached.

Party on!

[Johnkerry 0]

thanks alot m8, all i need now is some good weather at the weekend. The timing light i brought is Draper Xenon non adjustable thats all the shop had. Thanks

[dirtytorque 0]

As you have a basic timing light find the tdc mark.Then from there locate the timing mark which is 6 degrees b4 it.Then put tipex on it.

Than follow the procedures outlined above i.e disconnecting blue temp sender and reviing etc etc.

once the engine/ecu is in service adjustment mode,make sure at idle you can see the tipex mark you made.

 

B4 you do all this check your static engine timing like jezzag60 said above.

[Johnkerry 0]

me again lol :) im in the middle of checking that all the timing marks line up, ive lined up the cam gear mark with the point on the rocker cover which also lines up TDC on the flywheel but i cant find the mark on the crank pulley i can see the pointer on the lower timing belt cover but no mark on the pulley. Now my car has been converted to toothed belt drive for the supercharger so the bottom pulley has been changed ,should there be a mark on the toothed pulley ? cause i cant find one , is there any other way of checking the timing on that end ?

 

Im guessing if the bottom pulley had moved that the cam gear timing mark would be out ? as they are both linked by the belt. :scratch:

[Richardshoes 0]

Hi mate.

If the pulley has been chaged for something aftermarket then there may be no mark. However thats a big belt that drives the ancilliry equipment you must have a special set up for the alternator too. no matter though,,,,,, all is not lost.

Timing the flywheel and cam gear is all thats required. The flywheel marks represent the relative postions of piston 1.... ie 6 before or TDC. Now if the cam lobes for cylinder one are giving you the vickys at TDC then you know the games in your favour. Thing like a SOHC engine and it's easy. Two Cams for each cylinder. Where should these bad boys point when the pistons at tdc? V

Excuse my french.... I've been drinking...

Good luck. G60 is a cult classic. You have made the right choice in choosing to buy this car regardless of price! I have a 3D solidworks model of the G-Lader. I even put it through Cosmos and Abaquas..... It's a thing of beauty.

[Johnkerry 0]

Ok fella i understood some of that thanks. :) :lol:

 

Anyway i checked the timimg today and it was set at TDC not 6 deg Advance which seems abit strange as im getting pinking. Just for the fact that its surposed to be at 6 before tdc i tryed it and the pinking was very bad, so i set the timing at 2 degs after TDC, i got no pinking but the car was gutless so i set it back to TDC.

 

I have a few things to check with people in the know.

Should i be able to hear the pinking in the car with the windows closed ? ( as the noise im taking as pinking can only be heard with the windows open ).

What else could be the cause of the pinking ?

 

Referring to my last post as my car has been changed to toothed belt drive for the supercharger am i right in thinking that there is no timing mark on my bottom pulley as i cant find one ? My charger belt takes standard root ie bottom pulley charger, alternator.

 

Sorry lads but im starting to get really confused now i think im getting in over my head , im even thinking about taking it to a rolling road and even they`ve got no idea what to do with the G60 :( they seem to think it could be a fueling issue. I just really dont know anymore. :shrug: :help: :help:

[dirtytorque 0]

Most towns a at least one back street VW specialist garage.Just because the first one you took it too didn't have a clue you should shop around.I think you should get it proffesionally checked over.

Forum help can only go so far and if it is Det it can make a real mess of your engine so you don't want to play around with it.

[dirtytorque 0]

where abouts r u mate?

[Johnkerry 0]

o Dear m8 what can i say , I live in Co.Kerry Southern Ireland very rural, there are no back streets here let alone back street garages , ive only found one machanic in my area thats even seen a Corrado before, i think theres only about ten G60s in the country give or take.

 

We moved over here from England and wanted to bring something differnet over but mybe it wasnt such a good move.

I think ive found one place but its like over 100miles away so it might be a case of retarding the timing as far as nessasary so i can drive it there.

 

Thanks very much i really do appreiate all the help ive been given.

[dirtytorque 0]

take it for a light spin.

If you hear any det when you get home can you take a picture of the end of one of your spark plugs?

[Johnkerry 0]

Hi I'm back again. I told the car to someone today with a good knowledge of G60s he set the timing for me, checked a few bits n pieces on the engine. The sensor on the boost pipe was set wrong if i remember right it was set at 850oms instead of 500 which seems a big difference has anyone got an idea why this could be ? He said the knock sensor looked new he also said the car should be a lot faster than it is, but he couldn't actually find anything wrong. He suggested that i change all the sensors and see if that helps.

 

On my way home i was thinking there is a couple of things that i haven't looked at yet, fuel pump, fuel filer and regulator I'm guessing all these things could cause pinking and lack of power.

 

Also i took the plugs out and they had a light covering of brown/orange soot i don't know if this helps ( i forgot to take a pic )

 

Any more suggestions of things for me to check would be great as this car is driving me crazy :brickwall:

 

Thanks.

[dirtytorque 0]

did you let him here the car pinking..i.e did it sound like knock to him?

Sorry to hear your still having problems..

 

Did he check the cam timing was ok?

[Johnkerry 0]

did you let him here the car pinking..i.e did it sound like knock to him?

Sorry to hear your still having problems..

 

Did he check the cam timing was ok?

 

Yes he came out with me for a drive in the car after he set the timing back to 6btdc and heard the pinking for himself and he said it was deff pinking, he checked the cam timing against the flywheel timing and they are both lined up fine he also got me to put the car in gear and hold my foot on the break and he tryed to move the crank pulley to see if it was loose but no.

[Johnkerry 0]

:( o dear o dear o dear :( I reallt not having much luck with this car at the moment, i took it to work this afternoon so i could take it to a garage and get a compression test done and borrow a fuel pressure gauge but not one garage in my area had either, i really dont know how these places do half there jobs without there tools. So i carryed on to my first afternoon job and my water light came on i pulled over looked under the bonnet ONE OF MY WATER PIPES HAD SPLIT its the one that goes to or from the heat exchange on the oil filter down to a small T going on to 2 metal pipes, the split is about an inch long right in the middle of the T :censored:

 

The thing is i know a pipe shouldnt just split like that im thinking there might be a more serious reason for it maybe the headgasget is going but i cant see any signs of water in the oil and i didnt see any oil in the water that was under the car.

 

Could this be connected to my pinking problem in any way ? A couple of weeks ago i had to change the flange on the top of the rad cause that was leaking spraying water all over the engine maybe the pipe was the next weekest place :shrug:

 

Anyone got any thoughts on this ? its starting to become a love/hate relationship .

[jaded2882 0]

I doubt it's related to another problem, just another lovely thing to fail on your Corrado. Although my pipes are ok, just about all the joining points and flanges are leaking a bit on my G60. I have to top my coolant up about every 500 miles. Just another thing on the 'to do' list :mad2:

 

Keep going with the pinking problem, I'm sure you will get it sorted eventually and love your C again! I would suggest getting it to Jabba/Stealth/G-werks for some expert advice but I guess that's no good where you are...

[Supercharged 2]

It's just maintenance to be honest guys... rubber perishes with age and heat, plastic gets brittle and warps and some of these pipes might be original and that is worrying on a car that is over 15 years old...

 

When mine got to 10 years old (80k miles) I went down the samco route and replaced all the hoses and all the plastic flanges plus the water pump and stat as one was leaking and they always seem to go at about 80k on VW's. I was never happy with the fit of the Samco's and the fact you can't use the original clips etc so I've now recently gone back to original hoses (all brand new), new OE clips plus new flanges again and it's also had a new rad and heater matrix plus the metal water pipes so should be good for years to come!

 

You really need to hit a whole area now on these cars and get the parts while you still can, especially with a system under pressure like this as the weakest point will always be the first to fail.

[dirtytorque 0]

what petrol are you putting in it?

Is the car running hot at all?

After your next run as soon as you get home take the spark plugs out and post up a picture nof it.

:salute:

[Johnkerry 0]

Thanks for that fellas, I just wanted to make sure that there wasnt some connection that i was missing.

 

To Dirtytorque When i get the car back i will pull one of the plugs and take a picture so you can take alook :thumbleft:

 

The petrol is 99 ron Maxol E5 thats the only petrol i can get over 95ron and ive got to travel 50 miles to get that :lol: The water temp doesnt seem to be any hotter but ive only had the car a short while so i dont really know ive properly only covered 2000 miles since i picked it up from Andy. I did notice a couple of weeks ago when the second lot of pinking started the inlet manifold was very hot im not sure if thats normal.

 

What ive checked so far-

Cam and flywheel timing, Dizzy timing, new leads cap rotor arm, checked blue temp sensor, knock sensor looked new torqued up right, throttle body ok, Im on a different tank of fule and still have the same problem, Changed the vacum hoses to ECU, CO pot checked and ok, Injecter cleaner used. I will check compression and fule pressure when i get the car back, there dosent seem to be any movement in the crank pulley i put the car in gear and hard on the breaks while someone tryed to move the pulley and no go.

 

Is there anything else i can add to my list that i need to check ?

[dirtytorque 0]

exorcism.

[Johnkerry 0]

exorcism.

 

:) ill get the holy water tomorrow my friend is a priest any thing is worth a go at this point :twisted: :pale: :lol:

[Johnkerry 0]

dirtytorque - Here are the pics of the spark plugs best pics i could get. Also i done a compression test today and it came up 147psi, 145psi,150psi and 150psi so no problem with the compression. I think might have to try another ECU ?

 

 

 

[dirtytorque 0]

was that from a fully warm engine?Had you been for a drive?

If so you don't seem to be running lean anyway...

Opposite infact.

150 psi.. not brill but in spec.

 

 

When the mechanic he set the timing did he have the blue temp sender disconnected ?

Did he follow the digifant procedure that was outlined earlier?

[Johnkerry 0]

NUTS Sorry i forgot you wanted pics of plugs just after id been for a drive , its properly going to be awhile until i can get pics after a drive as car is off the road due to the split pipe ive got to order samcos as soon as i get paid. Yes the correct procedure was followed when doing the timing.

[Supercharged 2]

150 is a bit high - should be more like 130PSI but they are the same across the board so probably jut the (in)accuracy of the gauge... did you have the throttle open and engine up to temp?

 

I love the way VW's are so consistent... the say a difference 3 bar (nearly 45PSI!!!) is permissible but if I saw 20PSI I'd start thinking about a rebiuld!

 

I wouldn't worry about the engine itself but it's running rich - I'd clean those plugs too!