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mikeycg60

16V G60 SHOULD I?????

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I WANT TO 16V MY G60 BUT IM S*** SCARED OF DOING SO. SHE RUNS LIKE A DREAM NEVER MISSED A BEAT.

I DONT WANT TO UPSET THIS.

I ALSO ON THE OTHER HAND WANT TO.....

 

AS THE 16V INTEGRATION KITS ARNT AVAILABLE ANYMORE CAN I STILL ACHIEVE THIS

 

DOES ANYONE KNOW

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yes you should, be prepared for hard graft and for shelling out cash tho

 

your new so should read the tonne of threads on this forum, use the search function :)

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Hi Mike,

 

I take it you got the seats ok in the end ??

 

Building a 16VG60 engine is by no means a cheap option and requires a lot of specialist bits to be collected or 16VG60 integration kit purchased (a popular method especially when these kits were still available from BahnBrenner and the exchange rate was good and Darren from G-Werks could get them - sadly, these kits are obsolete now) This kit basically supplied a lot of the necessary parts to convert a 16V lump, together with the 8V G60 lump into a 16VG60 engine, they are based in the USA but even with the customs duty added, as the $ was so weak back then, it was very good value). The 16VG60 integration kits went out of production in 2008, and they have no plans, as far as i know, to have their suppliers produce any more. However, don't worry, there are several other companies that do the 16VG60 integration kits, both in US and EU.

 

If you use the 8V G60 as your base engine, it's a lot easier and you need less parts but you do new special forged, low compression pistons or Audi S2 ones. You will also need Scirocco 16V upper and lower intake manifolds (very difficult to find, and command a high price as they are so rare and most peeps know what you want them for so ask a high price!), or a modified Audi S2 intake manifold (easier to find and cheaper). If you use the 16V engine as base engine, you need a hell of a lot more parts and have to lower the compression ratio using a metal head gasket as far as i know.

 

From BahnBrenner website:

 

Build Option #1 (G60 As Your Base Engine): No matter what engine platform you start with as your base, the best way is to build up an engine with custom pistons and the correct compression ratio for this boosted application. If you want your base to be the G60 engine platform using the G60 block, rods and crank. You will have to use custom pistons with correctly cut value relief's and the right compression ratio for boost. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity.

 

Required 16V parts for G60 base engine:

 

* Custom BBM low compression 16V pistons for use in the G60 block

* 16V Cylinder head complete

* 16V Scirocco Intake manifold lower and upper (or modified S2 intake manifold)

* 16V Distributor, complete

* 16V Distributor Block off plate complete

* 16V oil pump, complete

* 16V Secondary shaft and gears complete

* 16V Timing belt and gears, complete

* 16V Exhaust Manifold or 16V Header

 

Build Option #2 (16V As Your Base Engine): If your starting base engine is the 16V platform then you can use a thicker copper head gasket to achieve a lower compression ratio for use with the boost. This is not the best or correct way to generate the proper compression ratio on any engine, although it is a simple and less expensive route. The preferred method on the 16V base engine is to also use custom pistons with the correct compression ratio for this Supercharged system. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity.

 

Required G60 parts for 16V base engine:

 

* G60 G-Lader Supercharger or BBM Screw Compressor Supercharger kit

* G60 G-Lader mounting brackets and belt tensioner complete

* G-Lader outlet (silencer box) or BBM RSR outlet kit

* G60 Serpentine / idler pulleys for water pump and alternator

* G60 AC pump or European water pump pulley

* G60 Throttle body, complete

* G60 Fuel Injectors and FPR

* G60 Idle stabilizer valve (ISV)

* G60 Digifant1 ECU and engine wire harness

* G60 Digifant control relay

* G60 Oxygen sensor

* G60 Water temperature sensor (blue)

* G60 CO% potentiometer

* G60 Relays, fuel pump

* G60 Intercooler, IC hoses to and from the G-Lader

* G60 Lower water pump pipe

* Upper and lower coolant hoses

* G60 Radiator and fan assembly

 

 

You need S2, RS2 or custom pistons to lower the comp ratio, as when fitting the 16V head the placing a 16V head on an 8V G60 PG block lowers the CR approx 1.8 Points. Since the G60 engine already has a CR of 8:1 then dropping that CR 1.8:1 points lower will bring it to about 6.2:1,definitely too low for a 16V G60. Now for the conrods, you can use your stock/OEM PG G60 rods but it is recommended that you use PL 16V Rods + custom (or S2/RS2) pistons due to the fact that your rod ratio using the PG rods will be too short.

 

Thicker metal head gaskets are used to lower the CR if you start with a 16V lump as base engine. Also, I think Audi S2/RS2 pistons drop straight in and are cheaper (about £80 each new, set of second-hand ones for about £100-£150) than getting custom ones (Wiseco, JE etc. - about £450-£500). Have also found another couple of sources for the 16VG60 integration kits (RP-tuning includes custom manifold and pipework) [these kits are VERY similar to the BahnBrenner kits, but are still in stock and readily available, and around the same price]:

 

http://www.rp-motorsport.de/glader/16vg60-bausatz.htm

http://www.slstuning.de/eng/g_lader/16vg60/index.php

http://www.orz-motorsport.com/16VG60%20engine.html

 

16VG60 conversion guides (both very good)

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1784212

http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread ... 212&page=7"]

http://mysite.verizon.net/laurin99/g60.htm (NOT BAD, BUT PART NUMBERS ARE ALL VW MOTORSPORT ITEMS, SOME NOT AVAILABLE ANYMORE AND ALL VERY EXPENSIVE, BUT BASICS CORRECT)

 

The best resource of info on how to build this engine is probably these guide above and the Yahoo discussion group which I suggest you join up for help:

 

16vg60 group on yahoo http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60 (FOUNTAIN OF KNOWLEGE)

 

As far as manifolds go, it is easier to source and subsequently modify an Audi S2 inlet manifold (and I think it looks better when fitted, as doesn't encroach over the top of the 16V head), or you can buy a custom one (these are basically custom-built, CNC-machined copies of the Audi S2 intake anyways, with one runner cut-off and overall length shortened). There are several sources of these, including Roma Tuning, SLS-tuning, RP-Motorsport (mentioned above) etc. These are all I have seen being used in the over in Germany, Holland etc.

 

It's also worth speaking to individuals on forums or companies (including a few on here who have built or had built for them 16VG60 engines and who now have them running) who have had experience of actually building these engines, as they will know the best soloutions, and which people at companies to direct you to to source parts and get better technical advice than I can offer. It would be worth contacting John Mitchell Racing http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk as he was one of the first to have a running 16VG60 in his corrdo and it was a beast. Also, contact Darren at G-Werks on this forum, based in West Sussex too, as they have been involved in a few 16VG60 build and can supply parts and offer advice and tuning capabilities etc.

 

All the stuff I have posted is info I have collected over the years on building these engines when I was thinking about doing it, but I decided in the end to stay 8V G60 for now. This all said, the 16VG60 engine is still quite an original option for power, as there are not a huge amount around, so go for it I say !

 

Hope this helps answer some questions.

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Its easyish to knock one of these up without too much fuss but its hard to get them reliable.

 

Keep in mind that you have a RHD drive car with a brake servo where the LHD cars mount their alternators too.

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I reckon this should go in the wiki or be a sticky in the engine bay forum. :notworthy:

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Would a 16V turbo or even a 1.8T engine swap not be an easier/cheaper option?

 

I can see the attraction of doing a 16VG60 conversion, but with the cash involved you'd may as well stick a remapped BAM in there and be done with it

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Would a 16V turbo or even a 1.8T engine swap not be an easier/cheaper option?

 

I can see the attraction of doing a 16VG60 conversion, but with the cash involved you'd may as well stick a remapped BAM in there and be done with it

 

there is that yes.

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You could always spend 4 years building one to the best spec you can, then drive it for 100 miles before pulling it apart to do something else - you wouldn't be the first :cuckoo: :lol:

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You could always spend 4 years building one to the best spec you can, then drive it for 100 miles before pulling it apart to do something else - you wouldn't be the first :cuckoo: :lol:

 

it's something to do tho.

Better than mugging old ladies.

:)

 

Still a while to go yet on mine,but it is now running.Just needs tuning & refining.

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