jamin 0 Posted September 17, 2015 Awesome! I was expecting the more knowledgeable types to say no it won't be that, this is a different type of fault if I'm honest. Glad it worked :) It made the most sense as it was the ecu relay that was clicking profusely, but all suggestions were worth investigation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 32 Posted September 17, 2015 Great news - and an easy solution. Sometimes your car is being nice to you and it's something simple. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 Does anyone know what this perished part should look like - is it the same as the other white clips shown in the pictures? I have no idea :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie 1 Posted September 18, 2015 I just used a bit of fuel hose. All it needs to do is insulate doesn't have to be anything fancy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 I just used a bit of fuel hose. All it needs to do is insulate doesn't have to be anything fancy I was thinking I might have to make something up, bet VW don't make them anymore... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 18, 2015 i dont know enough about electrics but even to me that seems odd, you would of thought the ecu itself would be insulated enough? ,might be something more sinister going on as to why part of the ecu casing would be creating a circuit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 18, 2015 My storm has 2 of those plastic clips, one on the rear, one furthest under the scuttle. The nearest the engine has a 10mm nut direct to ground, no plastic or rubber to insulate it. Put a multimeter to the bracket and the neg of the battery, if you have voltage there you may have a short circuit somewhere? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 18, 2015 My storm has 2 of those plastic clips, one on the rear, one furthest under the scuttle. The nearest the engine has a 10mm nut direct to ground, no plastic or rubber to insulate it. Put a multimeter to the bracket and the neg of the battery, if you have voltage there you may have a short circuit somewhere? My daily driver VR6 has the same set up as above Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 My storm has 2 of those plastic clips, one on the rear, one furthest under the scuttle. The nearest the engine has a 10mm nut direct to ground, no plastic or rubber to insulate it. Put a multimeter to the bracket and the neg of the battery, if you have voltage there you may have a short circuit somewhere? Ah, the plot thickens! I will do that test when I get home, thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) i dont know enough about electrics but even to me that seems odd, you would of thought the ecu itself would be insulated enough? ,might be something more sinister going on as to why part of the ecu casing would be creating a circuit I did wonder this as I thought the car's chassis is effectively ground and so why would having the ECU case touch it cause a short - sounds like I have a short being caused elsewhere... If I have a short then I will try removing each fuse in turn to see if I can isolate the circuit causing it. Edited September 18, 2015 by jamin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 18, 2015 At least now you should be able to scan the car with it running for fault codes. ECUs don't like voltages and more importantly heavy currents where they shouldn't be, so starting in "insulated" mode should be kept to a minimum. I'd take the cover off the ecu first to see if there's any water ingress inside causing a short circuit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 At least now you should be able to scan the car with it running for fault codes. ECUs don't like voltages and more importantly heavy currents where they shouldn't be, so starting in "insulated" mode should be kept to a minimum. I'd take the cover off the ecu first to see if there's any water ingress inside causing a short circuit This is a good point - I suppose I could connect a lead from the -VE on the battery to the ECU bracket to be safe? The car has been in the garage for a couple of years and so the ECU should be dry as a bone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 18, 2015 This is a good point - I suppose I could connect a lead from the -VE on the battery to the ECU bracket to be safe? That will have the same effect as bolting it down to the scuttle, ie non start? Check the main battery earth to the engine block is connected, tight and clean from oxidisation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 18, 2015 That will have the same effect as bolting it down to the scuttle, ie non start? Check the main battery earth to the engine block is connected, tight and clean from oxidisation. I don't think so - that would happen if I used the +VE terminal. OK thanks, will do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamin 0 Posted September 21, 2015 Well it looks like the issue is solved, but I didn't actively fix anything! I checked for voltage from the battery to the mount where the ECU is bolted, nothing. I tried this in all the various key positions and whilst the car was running. Odd. So I cleaned up the scuttle panel (a few years worth of leaves in there!) and mounted the ECU and bolted it back down. Started first time, each time, no problems. Annoying to say the least... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
