Flexso 0 Posted October 30, 2009 Whilst sitting in traffic I noticed that my fan doesnt come on till 110. Is that normal. I have popped one hose and a thermostat housing at this temp so really worried another one will go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted October 30, 2009 Sounds like your fan switch isn't coming on at stage 1? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted October 30, 2009 I have just checked the fan fuses and they both seem to be fine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The_Dude 0 Posted October 30, 2009 Check out the VR cooling thread Mike, its stickied in the Engine Bay section. But it sounds like a sensor is knackered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 30, 2009 Knackered Fan switch - the one on the radiator. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted October 30, 2009 Cheers guys, Off to VW tomoz then :D Any one got the part part number. I will have a look at the thread now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted October 30, 2009 Cheers guys, Off to VW tomoz then :D Any one got the part part number. I will have a look at the thread now. you need to remove it anyway, so you might as well test it off the car, it audibly clicks when it switches on/off at both temps, so you can heat it over a candle/hob and connect a multimeter to make sure it makes a circuit as well as clicks across both sets of connection. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 1, 2009 Right guys have found the problem. I have bridged the radiotar sender wires that plug into the sensor itself. The Stage is coming on but the stage one is not coming on. Where do I go from here? I guess that if when i bridged the wires and they both worked it would mean that the Rad sensor was knackered, but what do I do in this case? Hope you can help guys cos the pressure is tearing my hoses to peices! :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted November 1, 2009 I can't remember the fan motor setup exactly, but I'd imagine only the full speed is working, most motors have a full power/speed circuit and a second circuit running through a resisitor to provide a lower speed, if the resistor windings corrode and break you only get the one speed, but I'm not sure where or how the fan motor is 'resisted', it may be part of the unit itself as there are 3 pins to the motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 1, 2009 would it be one of the sensor on the housing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 1, 2009 thermostat housing that is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 2, 2009 Strange - it's usually the switch itself... You checked the wiring to that plug and also the rad fan plug looks ok - look inside the plugs etc... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 2, 2009 it in tough spot to get to isnt it? I had to take the battery out to get to the rad sender then put it back in to get the ignition on. :lol: The wire end do look quite corroded. looks like another bodge job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 2, 2009 Probably wiring then - it's the thinner Red / White wire that controls the low speed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 2, 2009 is it safe it bridge the working wire in the meantime to keep the fan on perminately? There isnt fuse or relay that is related to this wire going? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 2, 2009 is it safe it bridge the working wire in the meantime to keep the fan on perminately? There isnt fuse or relay that is related to this wire going? Can anyone help with this at all pls. :grin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eugopnosaj 0 Posted November 8, 2009 My 2.0l valver does the same, it doesnt come on till about 106 but ive got two different readings, the MFA reads 106 but the dial reads about 90ish... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 14, 2009 My 2.0l valver does the same, it doesnt come on till about 106 but ive got two different readings, the MFA reads 106 but the dial reads about 90ish... The MFA should give you the reading for the oil. I have wired in a manual switch on the dash now. but still a bit peed that the lower temp doesnt work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodaz 0 Posted November 27, 2009 I had this exact same problem mate. Was faulty wiring to the blue temp sender. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flexso 0 Posted November 28, 2009 I had this exact same problem mate. Was faulty wiring to the blue temp sender. Im gonna have a look along the wire that seems to be faulty today. The only thing I think it might be is if the wire has shorted out on something before it gets to the sensor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeshaw123 0 Posted November 29, 2009 i found that if the temp switch in the rad goes the whole thing doesnt come on at any temp, but if its a sender/wiring issue then it seems to come on at 1 spd and not the other. However there isnt any harm in having a manual switch in the car till you can be bothered to sort it... :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites