VR clutch replacement....flywheel???

[mrbeige 0]

When changing the clutch in a VR, IIRC someone told me that I need to change the flywheel at the same time, due to them wearing funny. Can anyone confirm whether it is or isn't necessary?

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

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[Kevin Bacon 5]

I would Stu, they're only £75 exchange from VW, perhaps a litte less through Neil.

 

You'll get less chance of judder if you replace both mating surfaces. What clutch are you going with?

[Supercharged 2]

I suppose you wouldn't normally change it unlike the DMF's but on a 15 year old car it wouldn't be a bad idea as like Kev says they are cleaper than the clutch kit itself!

 

I suppose it's like brake discs needing doing every 2-3 pad changes, if it's on high miles then I would do it.

 

Also on a VR - do you go to the bother of changing the clutch and not doing the chains / tensioners??

[dirtytorque 0]

I suppose you wouldn't normally change it unlike the DMF's but on a 15 year old car it wouldn't be a bad idea as like Kev says they are cleaper than the clutch kit itself!

 

I suppose it's like brake discs needing doing every 2-3 pad changes, if it's on high miles then I would do it.

 

Also on a VR - do you go to the bother of changing the clutch and not doing the chains / tensioners??

 

I think he is doing that anyway. :)

He's a busy bee.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

After all the b0llocks I've been through with VR6 clutches, I replace ALL mating surfaces as a matter of course.

[Jim Bowen 1]

just had my clutch replaced after 180,000miles and didn't have the flywheel changed. I did give it a thought but the garage said if its ok they won't change it

[mrbeige 0]

The Golf has done 130k on what I think is the original clutch. There is no mention of it being replaced in the service history. I was going to replace the flywheel as it had been mentioned in the past, but wasn't sure if it was necessary. I suppose as I'll be in there I might as well change it anyway, as a matter of course. Just checking really what other peeps had done.

Also on a VR - do you go to the bother of changing the clutch and not doing the chains / tensioners??

I'm doing hte chains, as it sounds bloody awful. The clutch has just started to be a bit juddery when you pull away, all though there doesn't appear to be any slippage yet, but as the engine will be out for the chain to be done, I thought I should get the clutch done too.

You'll get less chance of judder if you replace both mating surfaces. What clutch are you going with?

Just going standard genuine clutch kit from the Stealers. I feel no need to fit an uprated jobbie, as I can't forsee any huge increases in power in the short term anyway. Just out of interest, what sort of power/torque will the standard VR clutch cope with?

He's a busy bee.

Well, I will bee soon ;)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just going standard genuine clutch kit from the Stealers. I feel no need to fit an uprated jobbie, as I can't forsee any huge increases in power in the short term anyway. Just out of interest, what sort of power/torque will the standard VR clutch cope with?

 

Yeah I know, I was just seeing which supplier you were using rather than the strength of the clutch. Remember me explaining about Sachs & LUK clutches supplied through GSF not having flat pressure plate fingers?

When I was having issues with juddering, we put a GSF kit next to a dealer supplied kit and the two were very different.

The dealer pressure plate had the ends of the springs machined flat for a true running release bearing, the GSF one didn't. The dealer supplied friction plate looked better quality too.

Just info, tis all. You can choose to ignore if you wish :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Oh and my stock clutch (dealer) coped with 8psi of turbo boost no problem 8)

[herisites 0]

Oh and my stock clutch (dealer) coped with 8psi of turbo boost no problem 8)

 

I put my original flywheel and clutch in with my R32 lump (clutch was changed at 100k I believe, not sure about flywheel, but clutch has still done ~60k) and it's coping with the massive low down torque and throttle response just fine, no slippage or anything and it looked like new still even after Rotrex usage as well lol.

[The_Dude 0]

Oh and my stock clutch (dealer) coped with 8psi of turbo boost no problem 8)

 

 

My stocker was doing ok till I went to Santa Pod! Now its a bit juddery :tongue:

[mrbeige 0]

Just going standard genuine clutch kit from the Stealers. I feel no need to fit an uprated jobbie, as I can't forsee any huge increases in power in the short term anyway. Just out of interest, what sort of power/torque will the standard VR clutch cope with?

 

Yeah I know, I was just seeing which supplier you were using rather than the strength of the clutch. Remember me explaining about Sachs & LUK clutches supplied through GSF not having flat pressure plate fingers?

When I was having issues with juddering, we put a GSF kit next to a dealer supplied kit and the two were very different.

The dealer pressure plate had the ends of the springs machined flat for a true running release bearing, the GSF one didn't. The dealer supplied friction plate looked better quality too.

Just info, tis all. You can choose to ignore if you wish :D

No, that's all good. I remember you mentioning about the GSF clutch. I've gone past the point of ordering pattern parts now. False economy in my book. I ordered a pattern ABS sensor for the Golf. I ended up having to sand down the casing to make it fit in the hub carrier!!

 

Good news on the standard clutches torque capability though :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

"Massive low end torque" eh Rob? So does this mean you've fixed your issues then?! :norty:

 

Yeah, the stock clutch will eventually break after repeated boosting abuse :D

There's several pics on the Vortex of shattered standard pressure plates and crumbled friction discs, and that's just at ~ 10psi :D

[herisites 0]

"Massive low end torque" eh Rob? So does this mean you've fixed your issues then?! :norty:

 

Not quite, but it's still a LOT torquier than a VR's low end even with the flat spot!