vr6 rebuild..

[dene4638 0]

hi guys got the engine out on my vr6 to spray the bay and as i havn't long had it i wondered if there was anything you would advise doing to it whilst its out?

and with parts, where to get them from at a good price..

got the dash out too so thought id change the heater matrix... make and price reccomendations?

im also powdercoating the subframe and parts, what bushes would you reccomend replacing in the arms?

(i havnt got a huge budget) :(

 

cheers Dene

[robrado974 1]

if it was me i would give it a good clean n service apart from that if theres nothin obvious leave it alone [if it aint broke dont fix it],. :salute:

[demons uk 0]

Well ^^ echo the above, however it is out so what history does the engine have?

 

If mine was out (G60) i'd do oil and water pump, not sure what that is like to do on a VR, imagine it would be easier of the engine is out though.

[Guest]

also agree with the above

but i guess the things id be thinking about are hows the clutch and chains as there easyer while its out but if they seem fine then id just leave them alone

[jorge vr6t 0]

hello,, in my opinion i will say if the engine has a high milage i sugest to change the timing belt that way you dont have to do it later on, well i do not know what exactly you have done to your engine,, is everything stock i mean original nothing changed on it??

[andy 0]

Worth checking the timing chain tensioner pad. That way if it's goosed you can change things whilst it's easy to get the gearbox off.

[dirtytorque 0]

got to be worth considering the timing chains..?!?!??

How many mile on it?

[dene4638 0]

90,000 miles on it and completely stock..

and cheers guys, was thinking clutch and chains..

[pete_griff 0]

while you can get at it it's going to be worth doing chains/tensioners, clutch and water pump at the least.

 

as for the matrix, just buy a genuine one - they seem to last the longest. also if you've got the dash out it's worth doing the bowden cables (the cables that control the heater box from the controls), they go "sticky" and stiff with age and mak the controls difficult to use and cause the crap fragile bits of plastic in the controls to start breaking.

 

depending on your budget obviously, it's also worth just dropping the sump and seeing what your bottom end is like while you're doing the rest of it. normally on vr's yu can get away with just new bearings and the rest of the bottom end is usually pretty spotless.

also worth consiering is a head rebuild (i.e. new tappets, valves and guides).

thing is you could go on forever with the list.

 

seeing as yours has done 90k though i would go in this order of priority:

 

water pump

chains/tensioners

clutch

head rebuild

bottom end inspection and probably a new set of bearings accordingly

 

 

do the matrix and cables no matter what if you've got the dash out - they're not really expensive and are a bitch to get to if you need to revisit the area in future due to not doig it now.

 

edit - it's also worth thinking about what sort of nick the engine mounts are in, as there's obviously no better time to change them than now

[dirtytorque 0]

if funds are tight do a compression check to see if the engine is still producing healthy numbers b4 ripping engine aprt. :wink:

[pete_griff 0]

if funds are tight do a compression check to see if the engine is still producing healthy numbers b4 ripping engine aprt. :wink:

 

^^^what he said!^^^