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Vince@Stealth

Stealth Racing VR6 Turbo Kit discussion

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VR is a tough as boots engine, this will not worry it all. You obviously have to make sure its running right and use the right oil etc but no more than any other car I would imagine. Many VR turbos out there with no issues. Local guy has one that near 500bhp IIRC.

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Done over 45K in mine. If the engine was going to show signs of distress, it would have done so by now.

 

The VR6 was very over engineered compared to current VW engines.

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Done over 45K in mine. If the engine was going to show signs of distress, it would have done so by now.

 

The VR6 was very over engineered compared to current VW engines.

 

Indeed - the very shape of the block and configuration of cylinders etc make it an inherently very rigid lump compared with conventional straights, vees and boxer engines so it can resist deformation much more than any other auto engine and hence minimise deformation wear when development loads and stresses are applied.

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The only issue with the VR6 really is cyls 1 and 6 being at the outer extremeties of the block, so get smaller water jackets and less clamping force from the head bolts.

 

The great thing about 'starting over' with a decent rebuild is you can really keep on top of the cooling and lubrication maintenance from day one, thereby helping to prevent ovalisation of 1 and 6 as much as possible.

 

Stock VR6s feel like they hit a 'sweet spot' around 70K miles and feel really good. Coming up to 50K, my turbo lump is feeling smoother and gruntier than ever :D

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been looking at the AP racing products, what callipers and disks do you guys use/recommend using on a set up like this?

 

AP use the 5200 caliper for their VR6 kit. Try Godspeed motorsport brakes as they do AP a fair bit cheaper.

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been looking at the AP racing products, what callipers and disks do you guys use/recommend using on a set up like this?

 

The most common calipers I've seen on VWs are:-

 

Small - CP5100

Medium - CP5200

Large - CP5570 (6 pot)

 

The most common AP Racing kit is the CP5200 - 1009 with the 330mm x 28mm disc.

 

The kit comes with a 15mm thick ally bell which, provides 8mm of spacing to help with wheel clearance, but remember to factor that in when choosing wheels. For example, if you have an ET35 wheel, the actual mounted ET will be 27, which if you're using an 8J wheel will poke out past the arches quite a way.

 

I had some custom bells made by BGDevelopments in the stock disc flange thickness (7mm) so that I could use normal ET35 7J and 8J wheels without spacing.

 

My advise is to get the kit from AP Racing. The Caliper is only half the benefit. The disc quality and pad choice make up the other half and cheap kits always have a compromise somewhere, which is usually cheap single peice generic discs. The quality of AP's foundry iron is second to none and it really makes a difference.

 

You also need to bear in mind that if you go with the 28mm thick disc, you will need to grind the ball joint casing, which is the official AP workaround :D

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would anyone be interested in doing a group purchase to secure a discount with AP? im happy to sort it out if there is enough interest?

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been looking at the AP racing products, what callipers and disks do you guys use/recommend using on a set up like this?

 

The most common calipers I've seen on VWs are:-

 

Small - CP5100

Medium - CP5200

Large - CP5570 (6 pot)

 

The most common AP Racing kit is the CP5200 - 1009 with the 330mm x 28mm disc.

 

The kit comes with a 15mm thick ally bell which, provides 8mm of spacing to help with wheel clearance, but remember to factor that in when choosing wheels. For example, if you have an ET35 wheel, the actual mounted ET will be 27, which if you're using an 8J wheel will poke out past the arches quite a way.

 

I had some custom bells made by BGDevelopments in the stock disc flange thickness (7mm) so that I could use normal ET35 7J and 8J wheels without spacing.

 

My advise is to get the kit from AP Racing. The Caliper is only half the benefit. The disc quality and pad choice make up the other half and cheap kits always have a compromise somewhere, which is usually cheap single peice generic discs. The quality of AP's foundry iron is second to none and it really makes a difference.

 

You also need to bear in mind that if you go with the 28mm thick disc, you will need to grind the ball joint casing, which is the official AP workaround :D

 

Does that mean you could run normal wheels such as BBS RX 7.5x17?

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yeah i just wasnt sure if 330s with a 4 pot apposed piston kit was a little excessive? i would have thought 304s were ample??

 

I started off with the 304mm setup as I was stubbornly resolute in sticking with 15s and 16s. About 6 months later I upgraded to the 330mm discs and carriers, so I guess that should answer your question :wink: :D

 

The 330mm kit is what i would consider ample for a VRT 8)

 

 

been looking at the AP racing products, what callipers and disks do you guys use/recommend using on a set up like this?

 

I had some custom bells made by BGDevelopments in the stock disc flange thickness (7mm) so that I could use normal ET35 7J and 8J wheels without spacing.

 

 

Does that mean you could run normal wheels such as BBS RX 7.5x17?

 

Sadly not. They *might* clear with the 15mm bells though. If you go to the CP5100-1009 kit on AP's site, they have a PDF template on there which you can cut out and spin round inside the wheel to check for clearance.

 

Let me clarify that original post a little actually. That statement is applicable if you know the wheel has enough clearance without spacing, therefore the 8mm of spacing that comes with the standard 15mm bells is redundant. For example, my Current Rotas and my previous Pro Race 1s have acres of clearance, so I didn't want to run ET27, so had those bells made to retain the correct ET. Hope that makes sense now.

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would anyone be interested in doing a group purchase to secure a discount with AP? im happy to sort it out if there is enough interest?
Could be.

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Drove Stealth's turbo on thursday in the wet!! wheels spins through 1st, 2nd get some grip in 3rd and then power for ever! would like to try it in the dry! packaging is very well done minor work to inner front panel! over all well impressed pulls like a train! going back to try it when traction is fitted.

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shame it was wet, not point driving a VRT in the wet... mine doesnt get traction in 3rd or 4th, mine is fitted with a peloquin diff to! completely useless in wet tbh, as bad as the ferraris and mclaren today :lol:

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its knowing how much power to put down at certain times... mine loves it in the dry though :grin:

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Drove Stealth's turbo on thursday in the wet!! wheels spins through 1st, 2nd get some grip in 3rd and then power for ever! would like to try it in the dry! packaging is very well done minor work to inner front panel! over all well impressed pulls like a train! going back to try it when traction is fitted.

 

Vince not fitted that Racelogic Traction control yet? :D

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told me it should be in late april! take my hat off to you guys who did the turbo yourselves!!! me i am glad there are people like vince

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take my hat off to you guys who did the turbo yourselves!!! me i am glad there are people like vince

 

+1

 

(No comment from you Kev, thank you :p )

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What? Me? Dunno what you mean mate :lol:

 

Believe me, if Vince had done this kit a few years ago there is no way I would have done it myself. As much as I enjoyed building mine up, walking 2 miles with bits of 3" pipe in bin bags every week to a friend of a friend to be welded together and laying under the car in winter, getting a crooked neck and frozen plums really isn't something I want to repeat!

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