Brake union torque

[coullstar 0]

Looked through my downloaded Bently manual for a specfic torque for the brake unions on between the front caliper and hose. Ive got some DG braided hoses for the 288 calipers and was looking to get them connected up.

Is it just a case of tightening till the copper washers are squashed or is there a specific torque?

[John-M 0]

I'm interested in the same subject - doing the same brake upgrade quite soon.

[Jon_vr6 1]

tighten up and check for leaks, thats all i did

[Yandards 0]

There is an element of 'feel' in how tight to do these.

 

I am not sure about 288mm brake calipers but the 280 and 256mm ones have a nipple to ensure positive locking and once that's hit home in the caliper it only needs a 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn max.

 

As the 288mm sound like the sealing point for the banjo bolt is achieved through copper washers then I would offer the same advice, do them up until it goes a little tight (I am talking about that first grab of tightness when the assembly is all held nice and tight) and then stick an 1/8th on it. If it leaks when bleeding then consider another 1/8th.

[Supercharged 2]

Goodridge say 14Nm I think for the banjo bolt (I would check this) but they use copper washers where VW use steel.

[John-M 0]

I'm also intrested in the setting for the join between the braided hose and the solid piping - i.e. the join at the 'other' end of the braided hose.

[mimjed 0]

there isnt a specific torque as far as im aware.

 

just judgement really. the idea is to have it tight but definatley not to tight.

 

you can feel when it starts to bite so stop clean it up and check for leaks. if it leaks 1/4 of a turn and repeat.

 

just take your time

[coullstar 0]

Its copper washers and from what I can see they are designed to crush. I was going to do the tight then 1/8th turn but wanted to check. Im sure that principal whould be fine for the connection to the hard line as well.

[davidwort 0]

AFAIK the 'non copper' washers aren't steel but alloy, so they are about as soft as copper ones and can be treated much the same.

In theory one use, then replace, but in practice you can get away with reuse.

[colinstubbs 0]

Probably ally alloy like aircraft ones 8)

[andy 0]

Should there be a washer either side of the banjo or just on one side?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Usually both sides with Banjos, but I can't remember with the 288s tbh.

 

Coarse threaded 288 banjos can take more torque than the fine threaded ones. VAG changed them over (can they leave anything alone??!) at some point but as said already, tighten by feel. Soft washers are used for the very reason they don't need a lot of torque for the banjo to 'bite' into them and seal, so don't lean on the spanner :wink:

 

Can you get spanner type torque wrenches out of interest? And does anyone know of an uber accurate torque wrench? I'm not sure I really trust the click type ones tbh.

[andy 0]

Cheers Kev, lifesaver! Off to the shops again then! My new(2nd hand calipers) only had one washer on each side. I was going to replace them anyhow but was unsure if there should be one each side of the banjo.

You can get open ended torque spanners, for specialist applications. I've used one for years on RF (SMA) connectors. I assume you can get them for higher torque/bigger sizes.

[Supercharged 2]

Kev - http://www.stahlwille-online.de